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Obey_R

Still Having Running Problema With 1.6 Gti

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Obey_R

I thought I cured the last problem with a set of HT leads, but there must be underlying issues because it won't run smoothly with standard cables, only on 10mm quad core ones.

 

Struggled to start last week, eventually did but smelt veryy strongly of petrol. I thought it was a problem with the choke because it was cold, but it was in the garage and had both choke levers applied (never normally have a problem starting, whatever the weather).

 

There was a problem with the throttle cable (now fixed) which meant it kept stalling, but even when warm it took about a minute to start again. Managed to get home and stored up (garaged) for a week until a few days ago

 

Tried to start it again and still have the same problem, just would not start, got it out on the road and you can tell its not happy running, very irratic (sp?) and after about 2 mins of running it would stall, if I blipped the trottle a small amount t would stall, but if I gave it a lot it would choke then rev through.

 

I changed the leads back to standard ones to see if that changed anything and it made things worse (under load it will jerk and hesitate very badly, undriveable).

 

It's a 1.6 gti running twin 40s but the hesitation problem was still there on injection.

 

Does it sound like timing issues, distributor playing up?

 

It's not long had...

Dizzy cap

Vac advance

Plugs

Leads

Rotor arm

Ignition amp

Second coil

New fuel regulator, does it sound like fueling problems?

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dcc

sound sliek it may be overfueling slightly, have you checked to see if your plugs are clean?

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Obey_R

I haven't yet, I'm away this weekend but will spend some time tinkering on Monday!

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j_turnell

Are the carbs balanced? Are the carb mounts ok, not bolted up tight? Have you had it set up? Checked ignition timing?

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Obey_R

The carbs came to me from Anthony all set up and ready to go on, I've had them running for a month or more without any problems so I can't think it would be those, I hope...

 

I re did the HG a few months ago so did cambelt etc at the same time and the timing seemed spot on then, and again its been running fine up until last week so I find it hard to believe it would be that far out.

 

I'm going to try new plugs dizzy cap etc on Monday so I will have a play with the timing from the dizzy and see if I can get it to run any better...

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Obey_R

S6300409.jpg

 

Spark plug I've just taken out. I've changed them a few months ago and put these back in to see the difference, there wasn't much but new plugs didn't solve the problem.

 

From reading the plug guide on Google...

 

Dry or Wet black fouling

 

Can be caused by many different conditions. Carbon deposits build up when the plug fails to fire correctly and burn them off. Air/fuel mixture too rich, choke stuck on, electrical problem, extended periods of low speed driving, plug heat range too cold. All should be investigated

 

So this could be just an indication that the plugs aren't firing, which I already knew from the problems I was having. Or is the stuttering/idle problems likely to be caused by the Air/fuel mixture being too rich?

 

Another thing I noticed was when I fitted a fully working/plumbed in Vac. advance, it start pinking a low revs, whereas when I was running it with no vac. advance attached, it didn't pink at all. I've since played about with the dizzy timing to try and remove the pinking, but when I turn the dizzy to get rid of the pinking, the car then stalls when you try to pull away and the idle is too lumpy?!

 

The way this is going I feel like just giving it to someone to fit a GTI6

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feb

Is it burning any oil or coolant and have you done a compression test?

Broken piston rings can cause hesitation.

Saying this, it wouldn't explain the condition of the plugs though :wacko:

Edited by feb

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lagonda

I always associate that colour plug with too rich a mixture, ie overfuelling. Or not enough air!

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welshpug

if adjusting the ignition till it stops pinking means it stalls, sounds like it needs more air!

 

I'd just get it to a decent old skool tuner tbh (or fit bodies...)

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Obey_R

Well I'm uploading a video of it running/stalling at the moment and will post when its finished.

 

When I took the dizzy cap off the old one (6 months old) had some kind of build up around the contacts, I guess this is normal? I cleaned it off but didn't make any difference.

 

I also noticed the fuel regulator was on 2.5 rather than 3 so changed that but it didn't make much of any difference.

 

Changed the plugs and leads, with the dizzy set in about the middle it will fire with choke, then run for a bit but as per the video it just drops off. Idled fine around 950, then slowly dies and stalls at about 500.

 

Tried spraying a bit of carb cleaner but didnt do squat!

 

I'm planning on putting it into storage soon but ideally I'd like to put it away knowing it will run when I need it to.

 

Video is almost uploaded

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Obey_R

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Obey_R

Just tried again to get it to idle. It will start and idle with the dizzy about 5mm from max position, not sure if its advance or retard, turned towards the bulkhead. It will start and idle but within 60 secs it will just keep slowing the rpm and stall... :(

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Tom Fenton

I have just skimmed through this, it sounds to me like it is massively rich, the plugs also look like this, black as tar.

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Obey_R

Only two of the plugs are that black, two are normal tan coloured. The two black ones are both from the right hand carb.

 

Is it as simple as tweaking the mixture or is it not as easy as that, I have no knowledge of carbs :(

 

I'm also still unsure of why it will not run properly (under load) with standard HT leads, only with super thick quad core ones.

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Anthony

Only two of the plugs are that black, two are normal tan coloured. The two black ones are both from the right hand carb.

 

Is it as simple as tweaking the mixture or is it not as easy as that, I have no knowledge of carbs :(

I suspect when you changed the throttle cable you altered the balance between the two carbs as the adjustment for that is near where the throttle cable joins.

 

With one pair of carbs doing more than the other two, it'll never run right.

 

Get hold of a synchrometer and re-balance them - you can do it roughly right with feeling how much each pair of carbs "sucks" but you'll need a synchrometer to get it exact. If you look between the two carbs, you'll see that the throttle cable pulls the throttle arm on one, and the other is connected to this arm with an adjustment screw - that screw alters the balance by adjusting how far open or closed the 2nd carb is relative to the first.

 

PS. I suspect that something wasn't right in the first place given that you mentioned it would stall when the throttle cable broke, as it shouldn't have needed the throttle to be pulled slight open for it to run. Certainly when they were in my car the throttle cable was slack and the throttle was sat firmly against the stop, and it started and idled beautifully without touching the throttle, just needing a little choke for starting on cold mornings.

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Obey_R

I can't remember what I said in the other thread but the throttle cable hasn't snapped just badly freyed, so will snap soon by the looks of it. I haven't yet changed the cable so its still running the one that it came with from you.

 

Can I balance them roughly, without a synchrometer, myself? I remember someone saying to use a price of hose or something?

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Anthony

You can tell if it's badly out by putting your hand in front of each carb in turn and seeing hard it sucks - if it's out of balance you'll find one pair will suck more than the other two, and will have a greater impact on the engine running.

 

I'm sure there's a far better way than that though, even without a synchrometer.

 

(apologies, mis-read the first post and thought you said that you'd replaced the cable - either way, the cable adjustment shouldn't cause it to stall!)

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Obey_R

Okay just been out and done that - its bot easy to tell but the right hand carb, the one which has the two black plugs, is deff. not sucking as hard as the other carb.

 

So I can assume it is that carb which is either over fueling/under 'airing'!

 

Anything I can do now without having the tool to balance them?

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Anthony

You can try adjusting the balance screw on the linkage until they both feel the same - won't be exact of course, but should be closer than it is now and better behaved.

 

Look at which way the lever on the carb is pulled when you open the throttle, and adjust the screw so that it moves the lever that way a touch.

 

Keep doing that and rechecking until they both feel similar, and chances are that the idle speed will pick up noticeably too.

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Obey_R

Done - half a turn and it now idles without stalling but it still bounces between 500rpm and 1500! Took it out for a quick drive and its linking quite badly in low revs, at high revs it pulls well and seems okay.

 

Got it back to the yard and when driving slowly to put it into the barn it keeps stalling at low revs.

 

Exhaust is spitting fuel, smells strongly of it, too.

 

On top of all that, I've still got the problem of it being very jerky throughout the revs, but only under load, not at idle. This was fixed before by using thicker than normal leads, but with standard leads the problem comes back.

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Obey_R

I'm now hoping this is down to a slipped belt, ill investigate tomorrow evening but theres always a little bit of oil around the belt area so if its slipped that could well be the reason/problem!

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Anthony

Certainly won't help! Even if the belt hasn't slipped, you need to find the source of the oil, as contamination can seriously reduce the life of the belt.

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