General Purpose Loctite

[chipstick 382 1 Cars]

Going to buy a 205 oil filter thread so I can do away with the heat exhanger on the GTi6 block.

 

I don't have any loctite to hold it in place so need to buy some, the correct one.

 

Have had a nosey on their website. And they list Loctite 270 High Strength, general purpose threadlocker, Breakaway torque 33Nm.

 

Will that be sufficient for what I want? Or is it overkill/not enough.

 

Idelly if there is an all rounder that will come in handy in the future then I would rather buy that.

[petert 555]

I don't use anything on the thread, but if you must, some 243 will suffice. 277 requires heat to undo.

Edited August 3, 2011 by petert

[chipstick 382 1 Cars]

If I can get away without buying some for the sake of it, I would.

 

I was just under the impression with the thread being presumably half and half in the block and the filter, it could do with being held in position so when the filter is done up, the thread doesn't get wound into the block with minimal thread left gripping into the filter.

[Cameron 16]

I've never used Loctite on the oil filter stub, just do it up to the correct torque and it won't come undone when you undo the oil filter.

 

For reference, 243 is the blue "light duty" threadlocker you should use for anything you want to be able to undo afterwards.

[chipstick 382 1 Cars]

How do I torque a hollow threaded piece? (I guess that what it looks like)

 

Anyone know the torque it is supposed to be?

[petert 555]

How do I torque a hollow threaded piece? (I guess that what it looks like)

 

 

two nuts locked together, or one nut and an Mi16 adaptor

 

243 is medium, 222 is low.

Edited August 3, 2011 by petert

[Cameron 16]

Doesn't the stub have a small hex on it near the base?

[chipstick 382 1 Cars]

Haven't collected it from Peugeot yet, but from a picture I saw it looked hollow.

[NeilGTi85 5]

The thread is hollow and you cant torque it as it does not bottom out on anything? [GTI 6 block]

 

Trying to find 2 nuts to tighten it is near impossible due to the thread pitch, I did try before I relised it did not tighten up.

 

I screwed the thread in by hand and it did not stop on anything, maybe a longer thread is needed as I know there is 2 types?

 

This is a pic of the one I brought -

 

Edited August 3, 2011 by NeilGTi85

[chipstick 382 1 Cars]

The other one listed on Servicebox is no longer available.

 

Neil, have you undone it since, or leaving it while its done up and doing the job

[NeilGTi85 5]

I put some oil resistant thread lock on [only a very small amount] and have done the filter up hand tight at the moment.

 

I will check it at the weekend, I've still got the plumbing to do untill I can run it.

 

TBH once the filter is done up tight it will be pulling on the thread, so I dont think it will come loose.....

[EdCherry 34 1 Cars]

If your that worried a fair few engine builders ive worked with put jubilee clips round them and tighen. Loctite is a pain in the arse!

[petert 555]

Loctite is god's gift to metal workers.

[Cameron 16]

I wanted to ignore this but I can't.. how is Loctite a "pain in the arse"???

 

Do you prefer your fasteners to vibrate loose? Is that how they do things in real racing teams?

Edited August 4, 2011 by Cameron

[NeilGTi85 5]

If your that worried a fair few engine builders ive worked with put jubilee clips round them and tighen. Loctite is a pain in the arse!

 

Jubilee clips round what?

[SurGie 54]

Around the oil filter of coarse no wait, how can that be

 

Using a tap will sort out getting rid of the thread lock.

 

Unless they are to stop them turning round, but what would you use to link the jubilee clip round ?

Edited August 4, 2011 by SurGie

[EdCherry 34 1 Cars]

Cant say I have much faith in the jubilee clip, and cant tell you why but most of the engines I install and work on have them fitted. So something must warrant them from race engine builders of the passed couple of decades.

 

Loctite is a pain in the arse cause it means you have to clean threads, damages threads etc. I prefer using silicone, as do many race teams

Edited August 4, 2011 by EdCherry

[Rippthrough 98]

I'll stick with loctite...

[Cameron 16]

Ditto.

[Alastairh 47]

Lol.

[marksorrento205 80]

Im with Cam on this one rgd loctite.

 

I personally always use some when fitting the oil filter threaded adaptor in the block. It goes with out saying you dont use it on the filter its self. Even if it halfs the chances of the threaded part unwinding when you remove the filter, whats the harm in thats?

Edited August 5, 2011 by marksorrento205

[Cameron 16]

After having a torqued up cam pulley vibrate loose in a mapping session and nearly kill my engine, and a inner cam cover bolt drop out and hole the timing belt, I'd always go with Loctite!

 

There's a reason any automotive OEM or proper race prep will use threadlock on critical fasteners - it works!

[NeilGTi85 5]

lol, I still dont understand how you can use a jubilee clip on the oil filter thread?! Thats what this thread was originally about...

 

Of course, dont use loctite for the filter itself, just on the thread into the block.

 

Will be checking tommmorow if I have put a sufficent amount on the thread that it does not come out when I undo the filter

[chipstick 382 1 Cars]

lol, I still dont understand how you can use a jubilee clip on the oil filter thread?! Thats what this thread was originally about...

 

I only asked which type of loctite to buy as I don't have any

 

Will be checking tommmorow if I have put a sufficent amount on the thread that it does not come out when I undo the filter

 

Pop your findings in here. I am going to aim for half in the block with loctite. Half poking out and go from there.

 

I swear someone put loctite on my 1.9 oil filter as I had to chisel it off for 5 mins before it even budged!

[petert 555]

I prefer using silicone, as do many race teams

 

I hope not the garden variety guttering type, like old mate Baker suggested on here a few years ago! It sticks like sh*t to a blanket and is a bugger to remove. Loctite is of course just a brand name and has many different products. Using the right product for the right job is of course the key. I never use 277 as it requires heat to undo. This is what I use for various bits on an Mi16 engine. Highly recommended.

 

 

Loctite 243 - the three small retaining screws on the rotor button. At continuous 7000+ they are guaranteed to come loose.

 

Loctite 549 - oil pressure gauge fittings to block, oil gallery bungs etc. Brilliant stuff. I even use it on plumbing fittings around the house instead of thread tape.

 

Loctite 5290 Copper Maxx - exhaust wedge plates to manifold and head. Again brilliant. It will plug up to 6mm gap.

 

ThreeBond 1211 - sump and spacer plate mating faces, thermostat housing to head, inlet manifold to head, BE1/BE3 gearboxes. This is definitely the ducks guts of assembly products.

 

I do confess to using a hose clamp on the oil filter when using the remote oil filter mount on the gearbox. I use the clamp as a mechanism to attach a tie wire so the filter can't unscrew. It vibrates like buggery down there at 7000+.

Edited August 5, 2011 by petert