Few Quick Questions On Doing Shells And Oil Pump

[205_sunderland 4]

took the sump off today and removed the oil pump and a shell to messure few questions seen as though my memory is like a siv , i did it quickly before this morning too so havent had time to stare and way things up.

 

1) Is there any marking on the conrod bottom (end cap) to show which is front and which is back (nearest front of engine and nearest back) as ive took it off and marked it as i think it was but did get distracted for a split second and want to make sure incase ive spun it round by accident on the way to putting it down without realising.

 

2) the spacer/gasket that secures in between the oil pump and engine basically fell on me while i was under the car so i have no idea how it locates, is it literally common sence and ill work it out myself once re-fitting or do i need someone in the know to tell me which way it goes, it probably obvious but i just been as careful as possible .

 

3) sump bolts, i marked them all up but 2 were allen and 2 were 5mm shorter. does anyone know if it actually matters for the 5mm shorter bolts or has someone just used them, ive marked there place anyway along with allen bolts.

 

cheers mick

[Anthony 1,003]

The big end caps are fitted so that the tab is on the same side on both the rod and cap.

 

The oil pump spacer/shim basically just sits between the pump and block - can only really fit one way round, so you shouldn't have any issues.

 

The two shorter bolts usually go in the two holes on the flywheel end main bearing cap - use a bolt too long in these two, and you risk damaging the casting where the crank oil seal sits, and having an oil leak as a result.

 

Oh, and in case you didn't realise - the rod and bearing cap are a matched pair, so don't muddle them up!

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

The tab's on the bearings should sit on the exhaust side

[smithy 1]

The big end caps are fitted so that the tab is on the same side on both the rod and cap.

 

The oil pump spacer/shim basically just sits between the pump and block - can only really fit one way round, so you shouldn't have any issues.

 

The two shorter bolts usually go in the two holes on the flywheel end main bearing cap - use a bolt too long in these two, and you risk damaging the casting where the crank oil seal sits, and having an oil leak as a result.

 

Oh, and in case you didn't realise - the rod and bearing cap are a matched pair, so don't muddle them up!

 

 

you have got me thinking now as when i did mine it had about 4 allen bolts but i do not remember any of the others being shorter,are the shorter ones only for the tin sumps?

the one on mine is the alloy one with a 10mm spacer

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

Allen bolts should fit, 3 under the oil filter to 1 on the end plate where the cam belt is, Allot are in the wrong place from others not having a clue

[205_sunderland 4]

Thanks for the help lads really appreciate it, my dad has removed all my markings while ive been at work

 

The normal bolts are the ones that have 2 shorter the allen bolts were all the same and if you could tell me where they all sit in sump order that would be great after loosing all my places for both allen bolts and normal bolt heads, im referring to sump bolts only btw not shell bolts

 

 

ps thanks for shell advice ive only took one out so far so ill keep them all in order

Edited June 29, 2011 by 205_sunderland

[205_sunderland 4]

anyone?

[205_sunderland 4]

done shells and fitting oil pump now, the torque settings in haines manual were bollox, if its took it 70 degrees from 20nm youd of sheared the studs easy :/

[Anthony 1,003]

done shells and fitting oil pump now, the torque settings in haines manual were bollox, if its took it 70 degrees from 20nm youd of sheared the studs easy :/

No, 20Nm followed by 70 degrees is correct - exactly the same in the official Peugeot Mi16 engine build manual.

 

I'm suggest that your torque wrench is a bit screwed if it seemed way too tight, as 20Nm really isn't much at all.

[smithy 1]

Is this for a 8 valve?

 

Did mine few weeks back and it was straight torque figure no angular from memory about 39lb ft. Figure taken direct from Peugeot xu5 and xu9 workshop manual.

Will have a look later at exact figures if you want?

[205_sunderland 4]

No, 20Nm followed by 70 degrees is correct - exactly the same in the official Peugeot Mi16 engine build manual.

 

I'm suggest that your torque wrench is a bit screwed if it seemed way too tight, as 20Nm really isn't much at all.

 

It was an 8v yeah.

 

yeah i worded it wrong sorry i did 40nm loosen off then 20nm then the further 70degrees and it seemed way to tight so my dad did it by feel it the end (we owned a family garage for 50 years so he knows what hes doing as hes did alot og gtis when they first came out) and i didnt have a straight figure to torque to which i will get definetly for next time for new engine im building this year, i know 20 isnt much but by 45 degrees it felt like youd be shearing bolts anywhere near the 70 point.

 

Engine is alive and kicking an oil pressure was 75% on cold start , job was pretty easy really overall i didnt even need to take sump spacer off and all my shells were fine except the middle 2 top shells both had heavy middle wear...maybe they were not pressed in enough from factory as crank was fine also.

 

And btw machine mart torque wrenches suck hairy balls, the readings in was made to bet set in were not even nm and other stupid mesurements that made it impossible to set accurate so i had to borrow my neighbours in the end.

 

Thanks for the help thought i appreciate it, first set ive ever done so was little nervous but its a doddle

[205_sunderland 4]

Is this for a 8 valve?

 

Did mine few weeks back and it was straight torque figure no angular from memory about 39lb ft. Figure taken direct from Peugeot xu5 and xu9 workshop manual.

Will have a look later at exact figures if you want?

 

yeah if you can that would be awsome mate, ill not be using them figures again i prefer torque setting anyway much easier

[Anthony 1,003]

If you think the specified tightening method/torque is high for big-end bolts, just wait until you come to do up a head bolt using the Peugeot figures... they're 20Nm followed by 300 degrees!

[smithy 1]

If you think the specified tightening method/torque is high for big-end bolts, just wait until you come to do up a head bolt using the Peugeot figures... they're 20Nm followed by 300 degrees!

 

 

and it feels iffy as you are approaching the 300 mark,i was waiting for one to let go when i did mine.

 

pug figures are

 

mains and big ends 37lbft

the 2 side bolts for centre main cap are 18lbft.

[205_sunderland 4]

If you think the specified tightening method/torque is high for big-end bolts, just wait until you come to do up a head bolt using the Peugeot figures... they're 20Nm followed by 300 degrees!

 

 

thats insane, i was re-using bolts and nuts, surely they would fall pray to fatigue and stretch at that sort of torque figures, although the new engine will be all singing all dancing so it will have arp bolts etc so ill follow there guidelines to a tea