Problem Starting And Running?

[Will Eastman 6]

Hi first off the car in question is 1.6 gti, iv ran it for about 400 miles starting and running fine...

 

But yesterday i went out, to the shops (3 mile drive) n by the end of it, the battery was dieing. It started fine went i left home but i noticed the cd played cutting out abit and the central locking no opening all the doors. What is wrong with it?

 

Also there is alot of thick oil on the passenger side wheel arc area, cant seem to see where its coming from, are there any typical things that could cause this. thanks

[robcastle 0]

Hi first off the car in question is 1.6 gti, iv ran it for about 400 miles starting and running fine...

 

But yesterday i went out, to the shops (3 mile drive) n by the end of it, the battery was dieing. It started fine went i left home but i noticed the cd played cutting out abit and the central locking no opening all the doors. What is wrong with it?

 

Also there is alot of thick oil on the passenger side wheel arc area, cant seem to see where its coming from, are there any typical things that could cause this. thanks

I don't me to be rude but i think the thick oil in the wheel arch is probaly grease, i suspect from a split or damaged driveshaft cv boot.As for running issue possibly alternator not charging battery, is the battery light on the dashboard glowing ?

[GLPoomobile 958]

+1 on the split CV boot. You might not even be able to see the split/hole in the boot, but you only need a tiny little split for the grease to come out and it'll cover evetthing in that area.

[Will Eastman 6]

Yeh think that sounds like it, i thought it maybe this, but couldnt see any problem when i got down n had a look. Is this a cheap fix, and can i handle it easily myself. I thought it maybe the alternator, will have a look for battery light once i get it going again.

thanks

[Will Eastman 6]

Iv charged the battery now (took a fair while to charge-duno if this may mean that the battery abit far gone??) and its back in the car now. The cars working fine again now n no warning lights or anything are showing on the dashboard. Could it possibly be a case of the battery being gone rather than the alternator? Is there any way of testing this? Thanks

Will

[4ll5op 8]

If the battery dies again then it'll be your alternator check its connected properly if still no good replace it i had this problem so bought a new battery only to find the new battery wouldn't hold a charge so changed the alternator and been fine for past 2 years but keep an eye on the battery light

Edited May 11, 2011 by 4ll5op

[Will Eastman 6]

If iv just charged the battery and assuming the alternator isnt working, how far/long can i expect the battery to last, just need to know as im planning to drive about 150-200 miles this weekend. Is it worth bringing the battery in and charging it again so its full of charge for the journeys?? (i last charged it on Monday night)

Thanks for the advice guys

[smithy 1]

I would not risk driving it that far with alternator knackered.

Have you checked charge rate with a multimeter?

[Paul_13 212 1 Cars]

Should be pumping out 14.4v from the alternator. Also rev it and check it doesn't drop 12v.

Check the small excitor wire is connected and has a decent connector.

[Will Eastman 6]

How much should i look to pay for an alternator? Is it worth just getting one from a scrappy? or should i dish out the £100 on euro car parts.

Also just to check, measuring the alternator, is just measuring the voltage across the battery with the car on? And when you say dropping to 12v do you mean checking that the voltage doesnt drop bellow/to 12v across the battery when revving? Thanks

[Paul_13 212 1 Cars]

I personally wouldn't get one from scrappy, could be screwed. Test yours first.

 

I would test from the positive terminal on alternator to earth. Should not drop below 14v when revved.

Then test across terminals on battery.

If you know someone with a halfords trade card they're 45-50 quid.

[Will Eastman 6]

Hey been down to the garage n they did it for me, turns out it doesnt charge at all untill rev get above about 3500 rpm then it goes up to about 13-14 v. So new alternator on the cards.

Where is the best/cheapest/quickest place to get an alternator from. I could do with getting one asap but would rather not shell out £95 on one from eurocarparts.

Thanks

[Paul_13 212 1 Cars]

That's the exciter wire thats not connected mate. No need for a new alternator!

 

Check theres two wires going to the alternator, one big one small.

The small wire should be missing In your case

[Will Eastman 6]

What??? I had a look n it is, i even disconnected then reconnected it. Its pretty hard to connect it tho, maybe i didnt connect it right? So the fact that its only charging at high revs is that wire?

thanks

[Paul_13 212 1 Cars]

So the fact that its only charging at high revs is that wire?

thanks

 

Correct, I'd cut the wire back and crimp a new terminal on it.

[Will Eastman 6]

Iv had a look and there is a wire hanging near the alternator not connected to anythink (blue connector-orange wire) should this be connected? Also how many wires should be going to the alternator? A big thick one, and one other or two other small ones??

thanks

[Paul_13 212 1 Cars]

Think that's the one, there will be a terminal on the alternator which might be hidden well. Attach it and the alternator will charge.

 

1 big wire and 1 small wire

[smithy 1]

the alternator will have a large wire that is held on with a nut and also a thin wire with a spade connector,this one should be connected to D+ if memory serves correctly.

 

as said sounds like alternator is ok as charges when revs are raised so if exciter is connected to the alternator ok then check the brown multiplug on top of gearbox for corrosion as these are a known problem area.

[Will Eastman 6]

Its all pretty hard to get to, cant really see the said brown connector, do i need to get under the car?

[smithy 1]

Its all pretty hard to get to, cant really see the said brown connector, do i need to get under the car?

 

 

no it is above gearbox below the dizzy if it has still got one fitted,it is about 1.5" wide with 7 wires in it.

 

probably need to take AFM and AFM to air box hose off to get a bit more access.

[Will Eastman 6]

Hey want to try and replace the cv boot, does this kit look ok? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/PEUGEOT-205-BOOTKIT-BOOT-KIT-STRETCH-FITTING-CONE-/140420146580?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item20b1b16594#ht_1958wt_1139 have looked at some videos on fitting and read up abit on here and am unsure weather to attempt it or if to just get a garage to do it. Is it really that hard a job?? How much would your average garage charge to do this?

[smithy 1]

Hey want to try and replace the cv boot, does this kit look ok? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/PEUGEOT-205-BOOTKIT-BOOT-KIT-STRETCH-FITTING-CONE-/140420146580?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item20b1b16594#ht_1958wt_1139 have looked at some videos on fitting and read up abit on here and am unsure weather to attempt it or if to just get a garage to do it. Is it really that hard a job?? How much would your average garage charge to do this?

 

 

i used one of them boot kits and they are not too bad in terms of quality.

 

ideal for a 1.6 shaft as you do not need to remove shaft and inner end,just pop bottom ball joint and remove shaft from hub then stretch it on.

 

for a 1.9 i would get a standard boot kit as the outer end taps off shaft anyway.

 

at a guess a local garage would probably charge 1-1.5 hours labour depending on what shafts you have,if you take it to a garage let them sort the boot kit as they will not warrant repairs with one you supply.

[Will Eastman 6]

Thanks, iv got a 1.6 so might get that kit and give it a go then, 1-1.5 labour sounds steep n i am a student so less ££££ means more ...