89 1.9 Gti Idle With Video

[Team BDR 0]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KGFxouQbc6s

 

As can be seen in the video it starts then dies pretty quickly. Its idles fine after 10 mins of faffing around like this. If you blip it when the revs drop it will keep running as shown in the video. I've changed the SAD and AFM with ebay parts and still no change. If the ecu temp sensor is on the thermostat housing then that has been changed also. I'm guessing either a wiring/earth fault or air leak, do you think im on the right track and what are the best ways to trace/ rule these out?

 

Thanks in advance,

 

Rob

Edited May 1, 2011 by Team BDR

[ljenkins22 0]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KGFxouQbc6s

 

As can be seen in the video it starts then dies pretty quickly. Its idles fine after 10 mins of faffing around like this. If you blip it when the revs drop it will keep running as shown in the video. I've changed the SAD and AFM with ebay parts and still no change. If the ecu temp sensor is on the thermostat housing then that has been changed also. I'm guessing either a wiring/earth fault or air leak, do you think im on the right track and what are the best ways to trace/ rule these out?

 

Thanks in advance,

 

Rob

 

firstly check the pipe going into the top of yout throttle body the tube is common for blocking up, pull off the rubber pipe and put your finger over it you shuold feel the vacume, if not then it is blocked, just run a long 2mm drill bit down it gently, by hand not in a drill!, if you suspect an air leak the best way is to get it running smooth after 10 mins lol, ans spray some brake cleaner over each rubber pipe and also your inlet manifold, if the revs pick up inspect the pipe thourouly, this would indicate an air leak, may also be worth replacing the idle air control valve located just above the gearbox bell housing below the dizzy.

lee

Edited May 2, 2011 by ljenkins22

[smithy 1]

firstly check the pipe going into the top of yout throttle body the tube is common for blocking up, pull off the rubber pipe and put your finger over it you shuold feel the vacume, if not then it is blocked, just run a long 2mm drill bit down it gently, by hand not in a drill!, if you suspect an air leak the best way is to get it running smooth after 10 mins lol, ans spray some brake cleaner over each rubber pipe and also your inlet manifold, if the revs pick up inspect the pipe thourouly, this would indicate an air leak, may also be worth replacing the idle air control valve located just above the gearbox bell housing below the dizzy.

lee

they have not got an idle air control valve,i think you are referring to the SAD.idle on these is done by setting the throttle flap and TPS initially and then by turning the air screw on throttle body once running to set it correctly.

 

if i were you i would be doing as above and checking for air leaks,blockages in breathers etc i would then get a haines and do the set up and test procedure for idle and tps it also gives tests for other fuel injection items so well worth following the list they give.

 

also check the condition of dizzy cap/rotor arm and the vacuum advance unit on these cars they tend to be knackered.

[davey205 7 1 Cars]

Will be following this thread closely i have the exact same problem except mine is happy to idle at 1400 - 1500 without cutting out when cold then settles down to 1350ish when warm.

If i adjust the idle screw to set the revs at 1000 when warm it just cuts out when cold or hunts all over the place and eventually dies till its warm then it idles spot on 1000 wish i could sort it out.

Iv'e owned 2 205's and same problem on both if i could sort it out it really would run like a dream!

[welshpug 1,628]

Most issues like this can be sorted by testing all the components and re-setting everything to factory settings as specified in the Haynes manual.

 

All pretty straightforward to follow, you don't need any special tools, a small flat bladed screwdriver for the Throttle stop, large screwdriver for the idle screw, 11mm spanner for the Dizzy,, 7mm for the TPS, feeler gauges to set tps, Allen key for the AFM.

 

Vacuum gauge isn't totally necessary IMO, and final CO adjustment would need to be done on a Gas Analyser of course, but you can get it pretty close.

 

The engine does need to be at operating temperature for this, so make sure there's no problems with the cooling system, not any air leaks, check the dipstick as this can cause issues as well as the breathers and SAD pipes.