Electric Windows Into Base Model

[steve@cornwall 100]

Just a tip.... if you are doing this, FIT A NEW MULTI-EARTH BLOCK!!!!! wish I'd never started, but will add to this with a "how I did it" when I finally finish Just for fun, I'm starting with 4 door mechs, so need to convert my manual 2 door ones and I only have 1/2 of the original loom (don't know where thew n/s part of the loom has gone ) and 1/2 after market or dealer fit loom. Should be fun

 

I've got the opening 1/4 window in on 1 side though

[omega 82]

nice simple job then.....

[miamichris 9]

I fancy doing this on my xs so I'll be interested to see your how to guide!

[Tom Fenton 1,526]

I've a pair of elec window mechs that I'm considering fitting to my GTI with manual windows, so another one interested in the how to!

[dch1950 37 1 Cars]

Hi all,

I have a 1.6 which didn't come with electric windows as standard so when mine packed up a couple of years ago I researched the bits needed along with the wiring. I eventually took out the motors and converted back to manual winders.

I couldn't be bothered with changing to OEM electric winding mechanisms. The motors and winders I took out were made by this Worcester based firm. SPAL UK Electric window kits.

Electric window conversion kits

They now do 2 types (one with a beefier motor) and I think that I will use these when I eventually find time to do some work on my car. Much easier.

regards

Dave

[j_turnell 134 3 Cars]

I've a pair of elec window mechs that I'm considering fitting to my GTI with manual windows, so another one interested in the how to!

 

 

Its pretty straight forward tbh. If you have the earlier cars ph1-1.5 then you have to replace the whole loom back to the fuse box as there is no connection at the doors like the later cars with the large multiplug connectors. Ideally a dash out job on an earlier car, just run in the new door looms and follow accross to the fusebox, will need to add a relay also in the fusebox, this can all be removed from a donor car quite easily. If your lucky enough to have the large multi plugs at the doors then its just plug and play into that with a leccy door loom, fit the relay if its not already there and job done! I've done this on a fair few gti's and also my sisters T.diesel.

[steve@cornwall 100]

So far I have the "easy" bit done - just the driver's side. There was a 205 at the scrappy last week with e/w - so I will most likely go down there and liberate the rest of the loom. Being the "Look" model, mine has no loom whatsoever to begin with, but electrically it's been a case of a straightforward running of the donor loom through the door and a pillar, plugging in the earth block (I've used the block under the instruments which meant dropping the column for access -

so I really recommend fitting a new block) and connecting the single + supply wire into the ignition wiring from the switch temporarily.

 

I'll give more detail when it's done completely (and more safely ) .

[miamichris 9]

Its pretty straight forward tbh. If you have the earlier cars ph1-1.5 then you have to replace the whole loom back to the fuse box as there is no connection at the doors like the later cars with the large multiplug connectors. Ideally a dash out job on an earlier car, just run in the new door looms and follow accross to the fusebox, will need to add a relay also in the fusebox, this can all be removed from a donor car quite easily. If your lucky enough to have the large multi plugs at the doors then its just plug and play into that with a leccy door loom, fit the relay if its not already there and job done! I've done this on a fair few gti's and also my sisters T.diesel.

 

Doesn't sound too bad then! I have a couple of electric window motors "in stock", they may be from a phase 2 but my car is ph. 1.5.

 

If anyone has a couple of complete ph. 1.5 electric window wiring looms kicking around that they fancy selling, give me a shout!

 

Look forward to your guide Steve

[welshpug 1,628]

the motors are the same, its only the wiring connectors to the main car loom (or lack of on p1/1.5) that differ.

[miamichris 9]

the motors are the same, its only the wiring connectors to the main car loom (or lack of on p1/1.5) that differ.

 

Figured they would be they same Welshpug, I have half the stuff I need then! I reckon there's a set of electric window switches somewhere "in stock" too

[Alan_M 66 1 Cars]

Doesn't sound too bad then! I have a couple of electric window motors "in stock", they may be from a phase 2 but my car is ph. 1.5.

 

If anyone has a couple of complete ph. 1.5 electric window wiring looms kicking around that they fancy selling, give me a shout!

 

Look forward to your guide Steve

 

I have the 1.5 looms upto the plugs under the dash going. But I hoped to sell the lot as a conversion (motors/loom/switches). I still have the car the looms came from, so should have the dash part of the loom too.

[Anthony 1,000]

It's worth checking under the dash, as some 205's have the drivers side wiring there and present even if they don't have electric windows - it's normally tucked up behind the ECU holder from what I've seen. If it's there, you only need the door loom part, rather than having to run wiring all the way back to the fusebox.

 

Reminds me that I should really get around to doing this myself, since I've had the bits to do so and been meaning to do it for the past four years or more

[steve@cornwall 100]

Had a few minutes to spare today, so had a crack at completing this today. Unfortunately after throwing my toys out of the pram last weekend (unrelated matter) I now have nothing to take pics with

 

First the mech. Removed from car easily The "cog" that the winder handle fits to has to go - there's 4 tabs that go through the mechanism body and fold over - grind them off and discard the "cog" and spindle assy.

 

The original 4 door elec. mechs have 3 studs that the motor bolts to fixed to the mech. Just undo the nuts and remove the motor - you will need 3 bolts with sufficiently shallow heads to clear the toothed crescent of the mech to fix the motor to the new mech. (pack of 3 suitable bolts/nuts were 1.79 in Halfrauds-- trim the length once fitted).

You need to connect the motor to 12v to mesh the crescent to the motor "cog" - just connect 2 wires to the motor and touch to the battery terminals - job done.

 

Now the bit I didn't do last time I did this job - remove the coiled springs from the mech - they're not needed as the motor stops the window from submitting to gravity. Leave them in and the motors will struggle.

 

Now the bit I dreaded ..... the wiring. Turns out I had 2 driver's sides of loom and it wasn't half as complicated as I thought You need the grand total of 3 wires to run from the driver's side to passengers.

 

The passenger's switch on the driver's side has 5x terminals. The outer one on each side (1&5) operate the motor and need to be continued to the passenger side - just for fun the numbers were illegible , but the wires were orange and grey. Once on the other side of the car they fit to the outer 2 terminals on the passenger's door switch (again 1&5).

 

The next 2x terminals (2&4) on the driver's side passenger switch are both earths and come from the driver's window switch, as does the live feed which takes up the final, central terminal (3).

 

On the passenger's side, terminals 1 & 5, as said, are fed from 1&5 on the driver's side. terminals 2 & 4 are for the motor and central terminal 3 requires a 12v+ supply - I brought this across from the supply I used from the drivers side.

 

I fed all the wires through the door boots after removing the A post trims, behind the carpet and console and joined to the drivers loom behind the o/s post trim - Now just put everything back together and job jobbed

 

So, even without a loom - supply a 12v+ supply to terminal 3 of all 3 switches, 12v- to terminals 2 & 4 of both driver's side switches. motor wires go to terminals 1 & 5 of coresponding switches and if your windows go up when they should go down, reverse 1 & 5.

Edited October 30, 2010 by steve@cornwall

[steve@cornwall 100]

Hi all,

I have a 1.6 which didn't come with electric windows as standard so when mine packed up a couple of years ago I researched the bits needed along with the wiring. I eventually took out the motors and converted back to manual winders.

I couldn't be bothered with changing to OEM electric winding mechanisms. The motors and winders I took out were made by this Worcester based firm. SPAL UK Electric window kits.

Electric window conversion kits

They now do 2 types (one with a beefier motor) and I think that I will use these when I eventually find time to do some work on my car. Much easier.

regards

Dave

 

They look like the motors I used last time on my old CTi. After doing both I'd much prefer the OEM ones for ease as they mount straight to the mechanism and don't require the handle spindle trimming to length (get that wrong and you need another mech to start again)

[Henry Yorke 269 3 Cars]

I fitted these into my 1992 Junior D, 1988 XS and 1993 CTI. For the Post 91 cars I had the loom that disconnects at the bottom of the A pillar. The CTI had the wiring for the EW and CL but the Junior D just had the wires for the 2 speakers, so I had to cut that out and put a pre-91 flexible hose in there and make the loom in the same way as I did with the XS. I used some trailer board wire and ran a loom across from door to door, splicing into the appropriate terminals on the fuseboard on the way across. It was about 10 years ago that I did this so no pics I am afraid, but it is a relatively easy job to add both if you use genuine parts. Don't forget the door card blanks.

 

And if anyone has any aftermarket winder mechanisms they want shut of cheaply, then let me know as I have a little plan I would like to try

[steve@cornwall 100]

I fitted these into my 1992 Junior D, 1988 XS and 1993 CTI. For the Post 91 cars I had the loom that disconnects at the bottom of the A pillar. The CTI had the wiring for the EW and CL but the Junior D just had the wires for the 2 speakers, so I had to cut that out and put a pre-91 flexible hose in there and make the loom in the same way as I did with the XS. I used some trailer board wire and ran a loom across from door to door, splicing into the appropriate terminals on the fuseboard on the way across. It was about 10 years ago that I did this so no pics I am afraid, but it is a relatively easy job to add both if you use genuine parts. Don't forget the door card blanks.

 

And if anyone has any aftermarket winder mechanisms they want shut of cheaply, then let me know as I have a little plan I would like to try

 

 

I have a pair........... I guess you're also thinking CTi rears? May even be able to reposition all the winder mechs and fit some speakers??????

Edited October 30, 2010 by steve@cornwall