Best Product For Painting Under The Car

[GTIAndy 0]

Hi the underneath of my 205 has evidence of surface rust, nothing major I was looking at http://www.bilthamber.com/ their products sound pretty impressive, however I would like to keep mine as original as possible and the floor is currently white does anybody know what the original product Peugeot used or is it just Stone chip?

[CosKev 16]

I'm using Rust Bullet now,have used Epoxy Mastic121 in the past

 

Rust bullet seems to be better though,easier to use and better finish.

 

The standard pug stuff is crap,you will find areas where water has got behind it once you start cleaning it up,and this how the cars rot,the water gets trapped between the sealer and the metal

 

Just doing the arches area on my 306 Rallye,was hoping Pug would have improved there underseal on newer cars,but afraid not

 

http://www.rustbulletuk.com/faq/all_faq.php?cat_id=2

[welshpug 1,627]

its a Rallye kev, they only gave them the minimum don't whatever you do polish the sideskirts...

 

 

is the rust bullet overpaintable?

[allye 530 3 Cars]

I'm looking for something like this, any around in white though!?

[GTIAndy 0]

The rustbullet stuff looks good, but then again they all market themselves as the best don't they. But this stuff could then be oversprayed with white stonechip to give the correct look.

[SurGie 54]

Im about to do this job, im thinking of using body sealant in the corners after de-rusting etc then ill use stone chip the whole underside with the cars colour. I will then be using second skin to stop road noise, so that's quite a few layers there already.

 

My 205 as with most have hardly any sealant that is why it rots where the sill meet the floor pan near the beam, this is why ill be putting a fair bit of it packing it in well.

 

 

Also what exactly is that bullet stuff, is it like rust cure, granville and kurust or is it a prima ?

Edited October 9, 2010 by SurGie

[Simes 248 2 Cars]

http://www.por15.com/POR-15-Rust-Preventiv...int/products/1/

[allye 530 3 Cars]

POR15 is good stuff, I know a lot of the land rover people use it so must be fairly hard wearing. It doesn't come in white though! Think I will rustbullet/por15 then give it a coat of stone chip after.

 

Ali

[CosKev 16]

its a Rallye kev, they only gave them the minimum don't whatever you do polish the sideskirts...

 

 

is the rust bullet overpaintable?

 

Yeah,its overpaintable

Needs to be done between 24 and 72 hours after last coat of Rust bullet,otherwise the rust bullet needs keying to allow adhesion of top coat

And its VERY hard once fully cured

[CosKev 16]

Also what exactly is that bullet stuff, is it like rust cure, granville and kurust or is it a prima ?

 

Taken from the 'How it works' section on Rust bullet site

 

Rust Bullet® is not a paint in the ordinary sense of the word. Rust Bullet® requires no preparation, except the removal of large flakes of loose rust by light scraping or brushing. When applied, Rust Bullet® does not form a film immediately, but rather it penetrates the porous rust reaching the metal underneath. Our exclusive method of protection* dehydrates, or dries out the rust by a chemical activity, allowing the resin to solidify into a tough coating with phenomenal adhesion. The rust becomes intertwined in the resin matrix and remains a permanent part of the coating. The second coat of Rust Bullet® fills any pinholes in the first coat and forms a nearly impenetrable coating that protects the metal. The exclusive method for excellent UV resistance* adds to the protection, and although it requires no topcoat, any conventional paint can be applied over the second coat for decorative purposes. Rust Bullet® has by far the best abrasion resistance of any of the tested products, and is therefore quite difficult to scratch. If a scratch or chip in the coating does occur, it will rust in the breached area because it cannot protect what it does not coat, but rust will not proceed beyond the breach. Rust Bullet® will not lift, blister, or peel away from its leading edge in any significant degree. Simply reapplying Rust Bullet® over the scratch or chip reseals the coating, providing easy, low cost maintenance.

[SurGie 54]

Sounds good, but do they have test results to prove the rust worm wont still rot the metal inside out to the clean steel side of the steel, like covering some rusted steel covered with the stuff then dropped in a tub of salt water for a good amount of time ?

 

TBH i prefer total rust removal then seal and paint over with good Bilt Hamber primer etc. I recently bought some of this STUFF, to put inside the sills and any cavity area that cant be reached.

 

I have recently found rust between two spot welded floor panels, its much harder than the job first looked if wanted done properly.

 

Also i have found that the sealant tends to rust where its not been applied properly or where there are holes for bolts etc in the steel body, the edges peel then water gets in. I imagine that when the body flex's during driving also adds to the sealant cracking in places. Imv once its welded well, sealed properly then stoned chipped it will keep the water out very well, at least i hope so .

Edited October 11, 2010 by SurGie

[SurGie 54]

I have done some research and found out that using Epoxy primer first then sealant then top off with stone-chip is the best way of obtaining full protection after bringing back to bear metal.

[matt.f 16]

Bilthamber products are best for rust.As for sealers 3m sprayable sealer gives a factory look

[CosKev 16]

Sounds good, but do they have test results to prove the rust worm wont still rot the metal inside out to the clean steel side of the steel, like covering some rusted steel covered with the stuff then dropped in a tub of salt water for a good amount of time ?

 

TBH i prefer total rust removal then seal and paint over with good Bilt Hamber primer etc. I recently bought some of this STUFF, to put inside the sills and any cavity area that cant be reached.

 

I have recently found rust between two spot welded floor panels, its much harder than the job first looked if wanted done properly.

 

Also i have found that the sealant tends to rust where its not been applied properly or where there are holes for bolts etc in the steel body, the edges peel then water gets in. I imagine that when the body flex's during driving also adds to the sealant cracking in places. Imv once its welded well, sealed properly then stoned chipped it will keep the water out very well, at least i hope so .

 

If its rusted through its obvious it needs cutting out and plating.

 

No treatment/paint will cure rust thats attacking metal from both sides if you can't treat/reach both sides.