Fuel

[205*31* 0]

Ok is it normal for a non cat to smell abit of fuel mixture has been setup on a co machine but still smells of fuel abit.

 

Also I think my fuel guage is very inaccurate I put £20 of v-power in other day and am around 25 mile on trip and the light on guage is flickering but i put in mind the light will go out as I am parked on a downhill driveway. I don't know how empty it was before i filled it but the light was on and the needle after £20 didn't move very far.

Edited June 13, 2010 by 205*31*

[richsmells 2]

How many litres of fuel did you buy for £20? Work out your mpg economy and you'll get a better idea if the car is running as it should.

 

Your's should be motronic injection, but still runs the AFM, so check this is working correctly and the flap isn't stuck open or something silly. Another typical cause of overfuelling is the CTS in the thermostat housing.

Edited June 14, 2010 by richsmells

[Anthony 1,000]

The 205 fuel gauge (and in particular the low-level light) is pretty inaccurate to be honest, so I wouldn't pay too much attention...

[205*31* 0]

well all i can say is its overfueling!! on way home today going up an hill 35 mile on trip started losing power and had a constant machine gun type sound out of exhaust and it just died on me didn't want to start again. I went to have a look under bonnet and the dizzy cap had come loose this was slightly open which couldn't have been good tightened the screw up by hand tried to fire again but nothing.

 

Now the fuel light has been on awhile but I thought 35 mile surely not!! got a mate to come out with £10 of 95 ron put it in tank and to my shock it fired up! so I have used £20 of v-power in 35 mile!!! I know v-power is like £1.23 a litre but omfg!

 

so what can I do to try sort out this overfueling. It can't be ecu temp sensor as this is brand new, one thing I noticed other day when i removed afm the flap inside sempt quite loose and was moving quite a lot, is this normal?

[welshpug 1,626]

from the wildly innacurate guestimating gauges and working from the price of fuel you said that's about 10 to the gallon.

[205*31* 0]

from the wildly innacurate guestimating gauges and working from the price of fuel you said that's about 10 to the gallon.

 

10mpg!

[205*31* 0]

just wondering could advancing the timing alittle cause it to overfuel? i read about alittle advance can cause HC readings to go through roof whatever these are

[205*31* 0]

How many litres of fuel did you buy for £20? Work out your mpg economy and you'll get a better idea if the car is running as it should.

 

Your's should be motronic injection, but still runs the AFM, so check this is working correctly and the flap isn't stuck open or something silly. Another typical cause of overfuelling is the CTS in the thermostat housing.

 

what is the CTS isn't that the ecu temp sensor your referring to or something different?

[richsmells 2]

CTS / coolant temp sensor / ECU temp sensor. I meant the same thing.

[GLPoomobile 958]

The AFM flap should not be loose. It should have a very definate springiness to it, so when you push it open and let go it springs back immediately.

 

And just becuase the CTS is new, doesn't rule it out. If there is a wiring fault or one of the terminals is loose etc, it will be the same as having a duff sensor.

[zebedy101 0]

Is it leaking petrol at all? Surely if it's running that rich your going to be losing a loads of power?

[205*31* 0]

The AFM flap should not be loose. It should have a very definate springiness to it, so when you push it open and let go it springs back immediately.

 

And just becuase the CTS is new, doesn't rule it out. If there is a wiring fault or one of the terminals is loose etc, it will be the same as having a duff sensor.

 

it is springy the flap yes but when you push it open it doesn't spring back aggressively like bang shut.

 

the wiring on temp was all done and resoldered very much doubt its this.

 

as i said though I have advanced the timing abit wonder if thats knocked out what my mate at garage set co emissions too cause i gather it can knock hc out a lot?

 

Is it leaking petrol at all? Surely if it's running that rich your going to be losing a loads of power?

 

power delivery is fine not on sluggish side put it that way.

[zebedy101 0]

Have a good check for fuel leaks. Am I right in thining that the ignition timing is supposed to be slightly retarded? I'm sure I have read something about on here not so long ago.

[Cameron 16]

Stop buying V Power and get an extra half litre every time you fill up?

[205*31* 0]

Stop buying V Power and get an extra half litre every time you fill up?

 

what you mean get 95 ron? its a 1.9 8v engine though i believe sul is quite improtant.

[205*31* 0]

Ok took my 205 to my mates today and we hooked it up to his emissions machine and before any adjustments the CO was at over 2% also this is after I had retarded the timing as I had slightly advanced so god knows what CO would have been then

 

Anyway he first adjusted the idle screw abit which it started to climb down to about 1.8% still abit high so had a play with mixture screw on afm then went very low to aroun 0.68% so adjusted idle screw alittle and we eventually got it around 1% is 1% what a 1.9 gti should be set at?

 

It drives really smooth now can crawl along in 5th at a steady 30mph at around 1500rpm and is smooth barely any kangarooing do get abit of jerkeness on and of throttle but I think this is abit down to my engine mounts as they are alittle perished.

 

I will see how the fuel is now should be much better I hope

 

Here is a pic of my plugs that I took out other day too they were basically completely black in soot! so was overfueling obviously.

[Cameron 16]

A standard 8V engine is absolutely fine to run on normal unleaded. V Power is a waste of money IMO, you only benefit from running it if you advance the ignition timing.

[hcmini1989 16]

I went to shell recently thornton research ,And ill tell you something v power is`nt what its cracked up to be ,I dont want to say to much as ill posibly drop myself in the s**t.But i would``nt waste your money on it

 

Oh and im getting around 8mpg atm ,Mine had new plugs 92 miles ago and they are absoloutly f*cked completluy black and it`s missing like a bitch

time for me to invest in a wideband lamba as according to my lamba sensor everything is ok .

 

 

You can test your temp sensor mate measure the resistances at certain temps and compare them to what ever it says on autodata or haynes for your car

Edited June 16, 2010 by hcmini1989

[mickie 3]

my 323gtr runs on v power but its been mapped on the stuff in japan..

 

ive stuck the 95 in before and it doesnt like it at all, almost wanting to cut out at times.

i'd say it was pretty pointless in anything not set up for the stuff, it wont really make your car go much faster i'd of thought

[SurGie 54]

But it does produce much less carbon build up inside the engine.

[hcmini1989 16]

But it does produce much less carbon build up inside the engine.

really

[powermandan 0]

Pretty sure that you gain nothing by putting hight octane fuel into a car that it isnt designed for.

 

From memory so i could be wrong.

 

The higher the octane rating the more energy that is required to ignite the mixture, which reduces the risk of predetonation in high CR engines. The reason you advance the timing with high octane fuel is because the mixture takes longer to ignite and therefor delivers peak power later. Not 100% but when you think about it, if its taking longer to ignite and you havent advanced the ignition enough you will be generating peak explosive pressure further down the bang stroke than nessacary. which proberbly means your loosing power ?

[rescue dude 0]

My Pug has a high compression head and runs on Webers. It's been setup to run on high octane fuel and should I have to use 95 octane it runs like a dog. Misses at high revs and worst of all it occasionally 'knocks'.

 

I get the same occasionally if I use high octane from a garage that doesn't sell much of it.

 

I just use fuel from busy garages now.

[hcmini1989 16]

My Pug has a high compression head and runs on Webers. It's been setup to run on high octane fuel and should I have to use 95 octane it runs like a dog. Misses at high revs and worst of all it occasionally 'knocks'.

 

I get the same occasionally if I use high octane from a garage that doesn't sell much of it.

 

I just use fuel from busy garages now.

I dont know much about it but im going to look into methanol injection a mate uses it on an evo3 sprint car he said he just uses normal fuel but when the methanol injects it boost it up to 140 ron or something stupid like that how true this i dont know but im going to look into it as it might be worth ago .

 

And im not sure this aplies to N/A engines .But as i said im not clued up on this at the minute so ill look into it

Edited June 17, 2010 by hcmini1989

[rescue dude 0]

I dont know much about it but im going to look into methanol injection a mate uses it on an evo3 sprint car he said he just uses normal fuel but when the methanol injects it boost it up to 140 ron or something stupid like that how true this i dont know but im going to look into it as it might be worth ago .

 

And im not sure this aplies to N/A engines .But as i said im not clued up on this at the minute so ill look into it

 

Methanol in fuel works by cooling the mixture under compression and will increase the power but at a cost.

 

It will 'gum' up the combustion chamber, plugs and injectors in time so though you will see a noticable difference be prepared to rebuild/renew parts regularly.

 

You'll also find your car won't start as easy.