1905cc Mi16 Cambelt Tensioners

[Alan_M 66 1 Cars]

Just snapped the cambelt on my 205, and not holding much hope of a quick repair (Just hope I've not damaged a piston). I've got a spare working head on another car, but to be safe I want to fit new tensioners with the belt. Are GSF ones OK?

 

132PC0060 TIMING BELT TENSIONER-SKF 405 1.9 Mi16V 28.50

 

If it's SKF, I'd imagine they are.

 

A quickie.....

 

The spare head has standard cams in. If I wanted to swap the cams over with the Kents I have, as long as I match the tappets over it should be OK?

[welshpug 1,626]

I'd ask them for a Kit rather than individual parts, they tend to be Dayco/INA from GSF so as close to O.E as you can get

 

I think you'd be fine to use the existing tappets as long as you dress them (peterT shows how to do it on his site)

Edited May 13, 2010 by welshpug

[Anthony 1,000]

I've used the GSF SKF tensioners in the past, and never had an issue. Timing belts are generally Dayco, and are fine too.

 

Might be worth doing the waterpump while you're there for peace of mind, seeing as you'll already be having to partly drain the cooling system - after all, I assume the pump was last done with the current belt and tensioners 5 years back?

 

Can't see any issue swapping the cams over with the matching tappets in order - I've done just that before with no issues. Obviously they're hydraulic, so no issues with valve clearances etc.

 

For what it's worth btw, the entire engine that's in that red 205 was rebuilt a few years back when Sam had it and was a damned quick engine, so it might be worth swapping the whole lot over and just replacing the belt and tensioners on that as a precaution? You can then fix the current engine at your leisure.

[Alan_M 66 1 Cars]

GSF don't list a kit for the 1.9 Mi, and I've already got a Dayco belt.

 

Regards the cams, the Kents are in the in-situ head. Just a straight swap to the usable head I believe, as long as I match the tappets.

[welshpug 1,626]

GSF don't list a lot of things they stock

Edited May 13, 2010 by welshpug

[Alan_M 66 1 Cars]

I've used the GSF SKF tensioners in the past, and never had an issue. Timing belts are generally Dayco, and are fine too.

 

Might be worth doing the waterpump while you're there for peace of mind, seeing as you'll already be having to partly drain the cooling system - after all, I assume the pump was last done with the current belt and tensioners 5 years back?

 

Can't see any issue swapping the cams over with the matching tappets in order - I've done just that before with no issues. Obviously they're hydraulic, so no issues with valve clearances etc.

 

For what it's worth btw, the entire engine that's in that red 205 was rebuilt a few years back when Sam had it and was a damned quick engine, so it might be worth swapping the whole lot over and just replacing the belt and tensioners on that as a precaution? You can then fix the current engine at your leisure.

 

Something to think about......Thanks

[Alastairh 47]

I remember that engine Ant. Didn't it run low 14s 1/4 mile considering it was in a fairly standard car and on a mi box?

 

Al

[Anthony 1,000]

I remember that engine Ant. Didn't it run low 14s 1/4 mile considering it was in a fairly standard car and on a mi box?

Can't remember what 'box it was on, but it certainly ran a 14.2 quarter mile at Santa Pod when I was there

[Alan_M 66 1 Cars]

Found out why......

 

A random bolt had jammed on the crank sprocket. Sod knows where it's from, it looks like a sump bolt.

 

Can someone remind me where piston 1 should be, when the crank is 'locked'? 1 & 4 at TDC?

[Anthony 1,000]

With the crank pulley lined up so that the timing pin goes through the hole, all cylinders are half way down the bores.

[DrSarty 90 1 Cars]

With the crank pulley lined up so that the timing pin goes through the hole, all cylinders are half way down the bores.

 

Yes. It's not really a timing thing, as it's a precaution for removing/fitting the head to avoid valves hitting pistons.

 

 

Further to this>

The cam locking holes only line up when the crank locking pin is in at a certain part of the 4 stroke cycle too.

 

When you lock the crank pulley AND have both OE cam pulley holes in line with their locking holes, you still only have a starting point to check cam timing, which is really only delivered in this set up by the correct cam belt tension.

 

You then rotate the crank after the belt's fitted and locking pins removed to ensure you have the correct cambelt tension, which is indicated by the locking holes (all 3) all lining up again.

 

The more turns you give to test this the better, as it's more reassurance that you have the correct belt tension, as it's that that keeps the timing.

 

You can't really adjust the timing on these engines, and the locking pins and holes are mainly only for assembly/disassembly purposes, and putting all 4 pistons mid-stroke is how it's done.

[Alan_M 66 1 Cars]

Yes. It's not really a timing thing, as it's a precaution for removing/fitting the head to avoid valves hitting pistons.

 

 

Further to this>

The cam locking holes only line up when the crank locking pin is in at a certain part of the 4 stroke cycle too.

 

When you lock the crank pulley AND have both OE cam pulley holes in line with their locking holes, you still only have a starting point to check cam timing, which is really only delivered in this set up by the correct cam belt tension.

 

You then rotate the crank after the belt's fitted and locking pins removed to ensure you have the correct cambelt tension, which is indicated by the locking holes (all 3) all lining up again.

 

The more turns you give to test this the better, as it's more reassurance that you have the correct belt tension, as it's that that keeps the timing.

 

You can't really adjust the timing on these engines, and the locking pins and holes are mainly only for assembly/disassembly purposes, and putting all 4 pistons mid-stroke is how it's done.

 

Thanks, it's been a while.

[Alan_M 66 1 Cars]

Thanks, it's been a while.

 

No 1 - 160psi

No 2 - 0psi

No 3 - 0psi

No 4 - 0psi

 

[Paul_13 212 1 Cars]

My mate saw you on Wilderness road getting picked up by the recovery lorry, he rung me and said I saw this and thought of you. Cheers.

 

Sorry to hear about this.

[Alan_M 66 1 Cars]

My mate saw you on Wilderness road getting picked up by the recovery lorry, he rung me and said I saw this and thought of you. Cheers.

 

Sorry to hear about this.

 

Thanks.....

 

I'm not 'that' upset about it. Only annoying thing is I'm between cars right now, the 120d has gone and I'm still raising cash for a new chariot.

 

Just trying to decide what to do, as I've a complete Mi16 in another car that could go in, or I've got an S16 head in my garage (I think the cam bearings are too worn though). Managed to blag a car for a fortnight too so there's no immediate rush.

Edited May 15, 2010 by Alan_M

[Paul_13 212 1 Cars]

Ah I see, bit of a pain.

 

Was that Renault 5 GTTurbo yours that was near your house? Looks like someone had broken window.

[Alan_M 66 1 Cars]

Ah I see, bit of a pain.

 

Was that Renault 5 GTTurbo yours that was near your house? Looks like someone had broken window.

 

Nope, that's been there for ages. It's slowly being broken I think, in fact today a load of herberts turned up to remove the engine. I thought it had been dumped as it was on bricks for months with no wheels, and was considering having the rear calipers (think they're same as 1.9s).

 

There are 3 cars dumped outside my house and none are mine

[Paul_13 212 1 Cars]

get a trailor and get down A1!

 

The rear calipers are the same BTW

[Anthony 1,000]

There are 3 cars dumped outside my house and none are mine

Makes a change

[Alastairh 47]

Sorry to hear about the missing psi mate. Chuck that mi in. It was a good lump!

 

Al

[Alan_M 66 1 Cars]

Makes a change

 

I could change that and bring the red one back, but I know my fair and friendly neighbours will immediately jump down my throat like last time

[Alan_M 66 1 Cars]

Can someone confirm for me that 2L Mi16 and S16 heads are the same as 1.9s? (Apart from the manifold studs etc)

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

Not quite, Oil Drain (External), Water pump head bolt depth, Engine Lifting eye bracket, Chamber size different, like all the XU9 and 10 head's

[DrSarty 90 1 Cars]

Can someone confirm for me that 2L Mi16 and S16 heads are the same as 1.9s? (Apart from the manifold studs etc)

 

Go make a pot of tea, get some battenburg and have a good shoofty around PeterT's website. 'TaylorEngineering' is what you need.

 

That and many other things explained in there.

[Alan_M 66 1 Cars]

Go make a pot of tea, get some battenburg and have a good shoofty around PeterT's website. 'TaylorEngineering' is what you need.

 

That and many other things explained in there.

 

You know I've been searching the forum for a concise answer, and there it was on PeterTs website. Too busy looking at the wet sump part...

 

And I quote 'The chambers, valves, springs, retainers, collets etc. are identical, however there are four important differences between the XU9J4 and XU10J4 heads.'

 

Differences are oil return on side, 10 stud exh. manifold and dowel on inlet face.