Jump to content
  • Welcome to 205GTIDrivers.com!

    Hello dear visitor! Feel free to browse but we invite you to register completely free of charge in order to enjoy the full functionality of the website.

Sign in to follow this  
custard-rallye

Ax Gt Head And Vtr Bottom End

Recommended Posts

custard-rallye

hi as title says in the middle of doing this now just a few questions for finishing tomorrow

 

  • what size will i need to drill the jets to for it to run well

  • will i need any other bits to make it run well

  • will the gt gearbox go straight on??
  • and if it does what clutch and flywheel will i use the vtr one or the gt??

 

any help would be great as im doing it first thing tomorrow cheers

Edited by custard-rallye

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
custard-rallye

anybody?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
allye

Are you sticking with the solex? If so drill it out a hugely small amount! It won't idle as good though, if you have had the solex apart some ideling and fuel mixture adjusting will need to go on, a timing light will be very helpful as its almost impossible to get it right by ear. I pretty sure the gearbox will go straight on, not sure about the clutch though.

 

Ali

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
calvinhorse

I did the same conversion, i drilled my jet to 1.3 in a lathe. Would probly stand being drilled a bit bigger, not checked the colour of the plugs yet.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest dean-191

I'm pretty sure the gt 'box is too small for the 1600 flywheel/clutch, it bolts together ok but only with the 1360 flywheel. My advice would be to find a cheap ebay gearbox (£50 or so) from a post '91 car otherwise the 1360 clutch just might not take it. 1100 has a nice short diff so that might be the one to go for. As a point of note it seems a shame to strangle a 1600 with the tiny weenie ports and valves in the 1360 head. I had a manifold modded so i could use the 1600 head with a solex, but i used it on a 1360 bottom end so I've no idea on jets at all! The 1600 head is so much better than the 1360.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
calvinhorse

i'm using the 1.4 clutch (valeo) and its holding up fine.

 

4800miles of pain :lol:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
miamichris

Just out of interest Calvin, whats this engine set up like compared to a standard Xs?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest dean-191

A cheeky mod to get your clutch to hang on a bit better is if your getting your flywheel re-faced get the machinist to cut the mounting face 0.005" (about 1/8mm in new money) lower than the friction face. Just gives it a bit more pre-load and helps it hold on. It's also free if you're having your flywheel re-faced anyway!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
calvinhorse

Miamichris- more torque for a start! You notice the slightly heavier engine but that only lasts 2 miles before you get used to it, the mid range is better and shifting from 3rd to 4th to 5th you get a real boost of power as you apply the throttle.

It really changes the car from a "nippy little base model" to a somehow "bigger" car!?

Its a great mod in my opinion but ideally needs management or remapped dizzy to fully iron out pinking

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
custard-rallye

Mine is going to get set up tomorrow

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
custard-rallye

@ Calvin horse did you need a vernier pulley to set it up as I read on axoc you need one ?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
calvinhorse

No, the timing is set to .6 instead of .8

basically if you put the engine under heavy load or labour it, it will pink but i can drive round it.

Above 4k it doesnt pink.

I'm not sure how a vernier pulley would help this as its a problem caused by the ignition curve?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
burr_2000

The combustion chamber on the XS head is about 28cc and the head on standard VTR about 32,5cc which is significant and not a way forward for performance, understand if its just temp until you find a suitable manifold for the bigger valve heads.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
calvinhorse

Its just easy and cheap to use the xs head, its a power gain over a standard xs thats all.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
batespeed

i thought the vernier pulley was needed to get the valve timing right, not the ignition timing ? is the vtr not a longer stroke, therefore the block is slightly taller, and the belt run from the crank pulley to the cam pulley is also longer. so in theory the valve timing may be half a tooth out. (obviously, you can adjust it but only by a minimum of one tooth without a vernier pulley or an offset woodruff key) and there may only be 4.5 cc difference between the combustion chambers, but the vtr has domed pistons , i think, so your compression ratio will be far too high ,with the domed pistons and the smaller chambers, that's probably why it pinks a bit. i think you can get a thicker head gasket, any one know what one ?

Edited by batespeed

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
custard-rallye

I put a triple lare metal head gasket on mine and it still pinked I might buy a vernier

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Sam

I could never get mine to stop pinking when I done this and put a proper 1600 head on it in the end.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
burr_2000

I can understand trying to get more torque, i think book spec is about 90-95 lb/ft of torque of VTR engine and about 95-100 bhp but the xs book spec was about 80 lb/ft with 85 bhp (from new :( ). Now i think running the VTR on a smaller head and on a carb you will be getting a lot less for your efforts. i still think a well set up xs with the lightweight alloy block is great.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
calvinhorse

had a small breakthrough!

i was reading the new ppc and in the guide to fitting megajolt, it says if tuning a car with a dizzy you should always remove the vacuume advance otherwise it can cause pinking

 

i tried this and its helped alot, it now only pinks if you really load it up which i just don't do on purpose i just did it as a test..

 

im pretty sure it will use more fuel tho?

 

i just want to add that im not a mechanic and im only listening for the pinking with my ear out of the window, just because i can't hear it does'nt mean its not happening!

 

burr 2000- i think its something to do with the compression being raised so much? also are you going to pugfest? i would love you to take my car up the hill and see what you think?

Edited by calvinhorse

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

×