Wiring In A Saxo Electric Pas Pump - Help Needed

[Oberon 0]

I've just fitted a 1.9td to my stdt and I am used to power steering so I have got myself a Saxo electric pump with as much wiring as i could.

 

After searching I found that there is actually a guide on the main site, which is good but I'm still not 100%.

 

My standard pressure pipe is perfect length to left chassis leg, and I think the other pipes I can work out.

 

 

Its the wiring I need help with, I have a live, an earth, small green ignition live which all go to a large grey relay as

 

described in the guide. I need to work out what to do with these.

 

I think I can get power from the shunt box as there are other thick red wires going in there, but this is the extent of my

 

wiring logic.

 

Any help appreciated.

[mattbenselin 0]

Get power from any +12v source with a good cable gauge, the shunt box should be fine.

 

Earth the unit on the engine or suitable area.

 

Run the switch wire/relay 'on' wire from any source which becomes live with ignition on or via a +12v source and interior switch. ( you will have to turn it on and off though)

[philfingers 5]

i wired mine to a centre off switch. Up is on a 12v permanent live, hand to turn on the pump with out everything else running, ie when pushing the car around. down is to an ign live, so pump comes on with the ignition. off is er. . . .off!

[Daviewonder 533 3 Cars]

How did they do it on the 106 and saxo as it only works when the engine is running?

[mattbenselin 0]

The relay activation wire is linked into an +12v feed activated when the electrics are on via ignition key.

[Daviewonder 533 3 Cars]

The relay activation wire is linked into an +12v feed activated when the electrics are on via ignition key.

 

If thats the case surley it would work when the ignitions on then and not just when the engines running like it does?

[mattbenselin 0]

The igntion key turns on the electrics with one click then powers the starter with the second, you need to feed the pump with a feed activated with the electrics such as fuel pump, stereo etc.

[Cameron 16]

Could use a latching relay and take the positive feed from the starter solenoid signal. That way when you turn the key to start the relay will turn on and then stay on until the ignition is switched off.

[Oberon 0]

Thanks for the pointers thats pretty much what I was looking for although my original post was'nt 100% as I have one

 

green wire ( 2mm dia) and one yellow wire with green bands (3mm dia) coming out of the relay.

 

As well as the two heavier gauge wires.

 

I do have a 106 hayne manual but it does'nt have any info on the electric pump.

 

I may put a switch inside the car, variable resistor would be ideal but I'm gonna keep it as simple as possible.

 

Cheers

[Cameron 16]

Does anyone know how many amps these things draw? I need to get some suitable cable.

 

As for your wiring, yellow with green bands is generally an earth in Peugeot-land, check the wire up near the connector to see if it has a number marked on it. If the number starts with M then it'll be an earth.

 

Basically your 2 thick wires will be the power feed for the motor, you want one to go to the battery +ve or power distribution box and the other to go to the motor. It should already be wired up like this unless someone's been busy with the wire cutters. It's more than likely that the green wire is the ignition switched live (the one that turns the PAS on) and the yellow / green one is the relay coil earth.

[DrSarty 90 1 Cars]

Two ways to get the answer I'd say:

 

1) Look on the side of the pump; it must have a rating for current draw. Or see if it's detailed on Servicebox perhaps?

 

2) Look up the fuse rating for the 106 or Saxo that has this leccy pump fitted, i.e. look in the fusebox or just the owner's manual, which may even be online.

 

Always better to be on the safe side, but I can't see it drawing more than 15A peak...if that much...so 20A cable in those circumstances would be fine.

 

EDIT (to my last line): now seeing Matt's post VVV I was perhaps 100& out.

Edited April 2, 2010 by DrSarty

[matthewm 1]

They are fitted with a 45amp relay in the saxo and I think a 40A maxi fuse, so I used 6mm (50) amp cable.

[Oberon 0]

The yellow/green wire is an 'M' number, so I guess safe to say an earth for the relay and the green thinner wire the switch

 

wire as you say Cameron ?

 

The relay attached is a 45 amper. I may use spare glow plug cable.

 

Cheers

[Cameron 16]

Just had a look through my box of bits, it has a 70A fuse!

 

I doubt it draws anywhere near that though, or at least I hope not, my alternator is only 90A.

[Cameron 16]

Right, so after a closer look my relay is a 45 amp, same as yours. I guess the 70A fuse is there so that any spikes caused by switching on don't instantly blow the fuse. Anyway, I've knocked up a quick wiring diagram for you (and me).

 

 

Handily I've got some super-thin 45A cable, so will be using that.

[matthewm 1]

My mate has a 40Amp relay and 40A fuse on his and hasn't had any probs with it.

Being a sparky I played it safe and went for a 70A relay and base (it was either that or 30amp as I wanted to attach it to my relay board), 50amp cable and a 50amp Maxi fuse.

Should your pump fault and draw say a constant 55amps, your 70amp fuse in your drawing would allow your cable and relay to burn out which wouldn't be pretty!

[Cameron 16]

Well that's just how my 106 pump loom is wired up.

[Oberon 0]

Nice one Cameron and Matt very helpful.

 

Is it worth having a manual switch in the car to save battery power when in traffic ?

 

Where's a good place to pick up the ignition live ?

 

Would you say the smaller saxo reservoir is adequate given that I'll retain the long metal cooling pipe ? ie more fluid in

 

system.

 

Does it matter which way round the reservoir and return pipes go on the pump ?

Edited April 2, 2010 by Oberon

[matthewm 1]

I put a switch in mine as its used for rallying I then have the option to turn it off whilst waiting round at starts etc - suppose as standard they are always on, although if you put one in it then it does give you the option.

 

The small res will be fine as the metal pipe will always be full, just means the system holds a little more fluid.

 

And yes it does matter the return is the union nearest the bottle, and the pressure line goes towards the motor end of the pump.

[matthewm 1]

Is that 106 how it came from the factory Cameron? What size cable does it use?

[Rippthrough 98]

We use a 50A fuse + relay on the buggy, it's been fine, even with the shock loading - seems to peak at ~43A on full load.

[Oberon 0]

Hey Matt the res was already removed at the breakers and I can't remember now which one I pulled off.

 

The pressure pipe has its own union its just the other two push on ones I need to get right.

 

The unions are labelled no's 2 and 3, I assume 1 is the pressure pipe.

 

Cheers

[Cameron 16]

Pretty sure the larger push fitting is for the reservoir.

 

We use a 50A fuse + relay on the buggy, it's been fine, even with the shock loading - seems to peak at ~43A on full load.

 

Good to know, I'll use some 50A cable then.

[johnnyboy666 195 1 Cars]

Sorry to dredge up an old thread, but can anybody suggest a good place to take the ignition live from? Cant think off the top of my head what comes on with the second click of the key.

I don't fancy using a constant live with a switch, cos I'll forget to turn it off

[Anthony 1,000]

Anything ignition related will be with the 2nd click on the ignition - so coil etc. Fat red wire 2A on the fusebox.

 

Could splice it into the fuel pump wiring so that it only works with the engine running.

 

I can't remember if it's there on base models or not, but on GTi's and diesels there's a red 2/3 pin plug behind the passenger headlight that has a switched feed on one of the wires and is (I imagine) close to where you've mounted the pump.