My Worst Fears! Water Leak!

[joe_g40 0]

Hi guys, i fixed a water leak from my water pump few weeks ago. finally got it all back together, filled with water and still the water was dripping. Upon further inspection, i see it is dripping from the block right underneath where the head bolt No1 is!!!!!! I got under the car and it looked lke someone had put liquid metal under the bottom. Could this have been where someone didnt use the bigger washers?? The head bolt had the larger washers on it but im just trying to work out weather someone didnt do this in the past and punching the bolt through the block or how does this happen.?

 

Im absolutely gutted as spent ages changing all the the tensioner, cambelt, water pump to find this problem. Is it a new engine jobbie??

 

Thanks joe

[Pob 1]

Hi guys, i fixed a water leak from my water pump few weeks ago. finally got it all back together, filled with water and still the water was dripping. Upon further inspection, i see it is dripping from the block right underneath where the head bolt No1 is!!!!!! I got under the car and it looked lke someone had put liquid metal under the bottom. Could this have been where someone didnt use the bigger washers?? The head bolt had the larger washers on it but im just trying to work out weather someone didnt do this in the past and punching the bolt through the block or how does this happen.?

 

Im absolutely gutted as spent ages changing all the the tensioner, cambelt, water pump to find this problem. Is it a new engine jobbie??

 

Thanks joe

 

 

As you thought, someone didn't refit both spacers when bolting down the head. The headbolt above the waterpump should have two spacers... A large one and a small one

 

You could put more chemical metal on it to stop the leak or possibly get it welded. But other than that, new engine.

 

Dan

[alphacharlie 0]

I suffered the same problem on the car I bought back in October, had Miles fit a new engine as it was easier than messing about

Good luck with it

AC

[tidypug 5 2 Cars]

i had the same problem too, i used a blob of araldite and that sorted the problem

[davey sprocket 14]

i had the same problem too, i used a blob of araldite and that sorted the problem

 

I'm sure I've heard of several people successfully sorting this problem out with glue/ chemical metal.

 

I think the key will be getting the area spotlessly clean and degreased.

 

If the engine is otherwise OK, I'd certainly be tempted to have a go before replacing it entirely.

[joe_g40 0]

Yes the engine is fine. So how is the hole created?? i just want an understanding so i have an idea of what im fixing. Also i cant even see the hole, let alone repair it.

 

Can the block be welded? What metal is it.

 

Thanks for you help guys!!

Joe

[davey sprocket 14]

Yes the engine is fine. So how is the hole created?? i just want an understanding so i have an idea of what im fixing. Also i cant even see the hole, let alone repair it.

 

Can the block be welded? What metal is it.

 

Thanks for you help guys!!

Joe

 

Its created exactly as you suggested in your first post..... someone tightened down the headbolt without the extra thick washer and punched a hole underneath.

 

The block is cast alloy. Even if you could get someone to weld it, you'd need the engine out of the car first I would have thought.

 

Give it a really good clean up and try sealing the hole up again, you might get lucky.

[Pob 1]

Its created exactly as you suggested in your first post..... someone tightened down the headbolt without the extra thick washer and punched a hole underneath.

 

The block is cast alloy. Even if you could get someone to weld it, you'd need the engine out of the car first I would have thought.

 

Give it a really good clean up and try sealing the hole up again, you might get lucky.

 

There is a product called Quick steel, its an epoxy putty and suppose to be very good and would seal the hole up. I'd try bunging the hole up first and then see how it goes

 

Dan

[davepug205 7]

There is a product called Quick steel, its an epoxy putty and suppose to be very good and would seal the hole up. I'd try bunging the hole up first and then see how it goes

 

Dan

 

 

The AA actually fixed my friends engine mount which had snapped at the side of the motorway with that Quick steel, He was told it would only get him home but is still using it today

 

Ive always used it since then, I think the only thing it hasnt fixed was a cracked manifold due to heat.

[joe_g40 0]

Ah i see, so is it worth fixing? or could it easily leak again!! I want to use my car as a track car so could the stress an pressure blow it out. Also, where the water is leaking is that a main channel through the head?

 

Thanks

[davepug205 7]

For a track car a good repair will be fine, if doing a 200 mile commute every day to work then I may say look for another engine. If done properly it shouldnt leak again.

[pugdamo 111 2 Cars]

I have repaired one of these in the past,as you say it is caused when the head is tightened down without both washers on the bolt.

I removed the headbolt,drained all the coolant,cleaned the coolant from the damaged area(this took a while,making sure all the coolant was gone),pushed some quick steel into the hole and the groove where the bolt goes,then i tightened the bolt back down again,left the car for 24 hours,bled the cooling system and the car has been fine for about 3 and a half years and is still going strong,and the guy that drives it is far from gentle with it.

I would just repair it,it doesnt take any longer than 30 minuites to repair(excluding the 24hours waiting for the quick steel to set ),the most time consuming part is cleaning the coolant off.

 

Hope that helps you

[large 33]

If the engine is good (apart from the leak) I would have a go at fixing it. As said preperation is the key to this job. If you have other problems with it time for a change. My old 1.6 had this problem and i could not get the leak to stop, so i put a 1.9 8v in. I sould have tried harder to stop the leak.

[Tom Fenton 1,576]

To make sure of a good job I'd recommend removing the water pump. Then you can get a heat gun and get the area warm and properly dry. Then degrease with solvent cleaner and dry again. As with any kind of adhesive repair, clean, dry, and grease/oil free is the key to a good job.

[DamirGTI 345]

I had the same problem , removed the water pump and the head bolt , cleaned degrease dried and roughen up a bit surface with the sanding paper , filled the hole with Permatex epoxy metal (300C rated) and it turned out as good as new no problems what so ever no leaks no nothing .. and my engine is not quite a std. item so it runs at a little bit higher temp. pressure etc. ... as said by Anthony before , if done properly , it'll outlast the entire car/mechanic components this the adhesive product technology has moved up quite a bit from the past years so id say , by all means , go for it and try it out you don't have anything to loose ..

 

After all , dunno if you know , the whole bodywork for a Jaguar XJ220 was built up with the adhesives

 

Damir

[joe_g40 0]

I have repaired so far and water is still in the system, havent ran it up to temp and pressurised the system. Jus keeping my fingers crossed!!!

[davey sprocket 14]

I have repaired so far and water is still in the system, havent ran it up to temp and pressurised the system. Jus keeping my fingers crossed!!!

 

Well done mate.... I'll keep mine crossed as well!

[Jmk442 0]

Sorry to steal your post pal but does anybody have any experience of welding a crack in the block?!? TIG weld with it being alloy?? I've got a 1600 with a crack behined the starter between the 2 bores, it first came about around 4 yrs ago and used quicksteel type thing but now its peeling away so engine is out and ready to sort but is it possible and will it last of the crack is welded?!? It has never shown to have done any internal damage!!

 

Sorry again mate for stealing your post as ive searched and searched and your problem is most similar!!

 

Thanks in advance lads

James

[Tom Fenton 1,576]

It probably can be welded, the trick is to grind out the crack, drill a hole at the ends, pre heat, and then weld it up.

 

A picture may help us to advise you better.

 

I have welded them before, its not that fun as typically there is a lot of crap in the alloy. Yes you will need an AC TIG to weld it.

[Jmk442 0]

Thanks Tom just been speaking to a welder I know so he's gonna have a look, thinks there shouldn't be a problem like you said grind out, pre heat and weld. Thanks for reply!

 

Jimbob

[kyepan 291]

yeah i had a cracked block, and investigated getting it welded, as tom says, it's not totally straight forward, ideally they need a bare block, and they do need to know what their doing.

 

for the hassle involved swapping the engine would be easier.