Gman 29 Posted November 21, 2009 (edited) Hi, I've had a look in the old haynes manual but couldn't find what I needed. When I bought the car the guy that sold it said it over heated in traffic and the AA man came and said a new thermo switch was needed. In the attached picture you can see they have made a temporary repair, but what exactly do I need to do to bring it back to standard. Is it the whole black plastic box that needs replacing or what????? Many thanks Graham Edited November 23, 2009 by pugtorque image filesize, click thumbnail for fullsize. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
omega 82 Posted November 21, 2009 (edited) wheres the picture? oops its just loaded Edited November 21, 2009 by omega Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CosKev 16 Posted November 21, 2009 I would guess he meant the rad fan switch in the rad when he said 'thermo switch' Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Miles 331 1 Cars Posted November 21, 2009 I really would buy a new Fan loom from Pug, Saves having any problems for a good 10 years The Blue plug in the picture should connect onto the Rad Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SurGie 54 Posted November 22, 2009 (edited) Does any one have the price and part no code for the fan loom ?> Cheers Edited November 22, 2009 by SurGie Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
damien 22 1 Cars Posted November 23, 2009 Does any one have the price and part no code for the fan loom ?> Cheers i couldnt find anything online Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
welshpug 1,737 Posted November 23, 2009 (edited) that blue plug is indeed the one that should be connected to the thermoswitch that is screwed into the end tank of the radiator. the plastic box is that's normally referred to as "the shunt box" it is the main fused power connection for the rest of the car, the engine interior and cooling systems are plugged in here, the temporary repair is only connected here I presume as its the easiest source of a fused 12v+ supply. I found the harness part numbers to be; 1 FAN , 2 RATES EXCEPT TU24 6543 9F NFP FAN HARNESS TAG 9608257080 - UNTIL DATE 19900701 6543 6Y NFP TAG 9610825780 9615064780 9610825680 - SINCE DATE 19900701 as you can see, both earlier and later types are marked NFP, that's not to say they are no longer available from stock, just no longer made. Edited November 23, 2009 by welshpug Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pug_ham 245 3 Cars Posted November 23, 2009 All I can see wrong in your picture is that the blue plug isn't connected to the rad thermo switch as already mentioned. To test if your fans work you can simply bridge the middle pin on the blue plug to either side which should give you either low or high speed fans depending on which side you bridge. Graham. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
damien 22 1 Cars Posted November 23, 2009 what you could do is rig a switch to the brown test plug, just turn it on as and when you need it Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gman 29 Posted November 26, 2009 Thanks for all the replies, you're a big help! So the bit that has probably broken is the rad sensor that the blue plug plugs into, or does the loom and rad sensor come as one? Thanks again Graham Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
welshpug 1,737 Posted November 26, 2009 no you can just buy the sensor on its own. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pug_ham 245 3 Cars Posted November 27, 2009 Is it actually broken or simply not plugged into the switch on the rad? Graham. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gman 29 Posted November 27, 2009 Is it actually broken or simply not plugged into the switch on the rad? Graham. It wasn't plugged in when I got it, just had the wires you can see plugged in to the "shunt box" which, I assume, made the fans run on constant. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pug_ham 245 3 Cars Posted November 30, 2009 It wasn't plugged in when I got it, just had the wires you can see plugged in to the "shunt box" which, I assume, made the fans run on constant. Hard to say exactly what was done but the whole loom only runs between the shunt box(possibly the first black plug from the left), rad switch, fan plug & speed resistor. If the fans were running constantly, why would it over heat? IMO it would run cooler & only climb a bit higher in traffic but if they were on all the time you'd probably be able to hear them anyway. Graham. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites