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pugpete1108

Gti6 Tps Wiring? What Is What Or How To Test?

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pugpete1108

i have looked everywhere for a way of testing the tps so i can wire it correctly i.e signal,5 v and ground

 

i remember seeing a way of testing it with a meter but i cant find it anywhere??

 

failing that does anyone know the pins on a gti6 tps?

 

pete

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pugpete1108

that wasn't where i read it but that will do nicely ;)

 

many thanks Nicolas

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pugpete1108

going by that i guide this is how to wire it for future reference.

 

post-7077-1257339479.jpg

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DrSarty

A few points though:

 

>> 'earth' is a sensor ground. It does not go to ground other than back at the ECU with other sensor grounds such as the ECU coolant temp sensor.

 

>> You can test/verify the pins because 'earth' will be one end of the track and '5v+ ref' will be the other, so you will get a constant resistance reading between those 2 pins no matter if you move the throttle spindle.

 

>> You'll know you've found the wiper (signal) pin because that will show a varying resistance if checked against either of the other two pins when the throttle spindle is turned.

 

>> You'll then know which is 0v (bottom) and which is the 5v (top) of the track by how the resistance increases or decreases when you turn the spindle - but I can never remember which way round it is. My common sense tells me the resistance will INCREASE if you have your circuit tester on the 0v (gnd) and wiper (sig) pins. It will decrease if you have wiper and +5v.

 

Hope that makes sense.

Edited by DrSarty

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pugpete1108

cheers Rich for the tech info.

 

is how i have wired it correct then?

 

the earth does not go back to the ecu in my case, it goes to the main earth point which is common for all my sensors and in fact main ecu ground too.

 

post-7077-1257351029.jpg

 

better? :unsure:

 

and yes i do believe your right with the 0v to signal increases and 5v to signal decreases. it was one way or the other anyway?

Edited by pugpete1108

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DrSarty

How can I tell you if you have the pins labelled correctly? :unsure:

 

When you set up the MS and configure the TPS, you'll soon see if you have the 2 of the pins arse about face as the throttle will start at 100% and go to zero as you depress it; just swap 'em over if that's the case.

 

And the ECU will benefit (apparently) from clean, low interference signals from the sensors, such as TPS, coolant and IAT.

 

The engine metal and chassis is electrically very noisy, which is why your MS and nearly all ECU pin outs I've looked at have a dedicated pin or 2 for sensor grounds. It's own power ground is a separate pin to those, so I would advise you follow suit.

 

My IAT, ECU coolant temp sensor and TPS all share a common sensor ground, but it doesn't go to the chassis, it goes back to a dedicated sensor ground pin in the ECU, which grounds it locally. Ultimately it still goes to ground and back the to battery neg, but a power ground isn't sensitive to electrical noise whereas sensors and microchips inside ECUs are.

 

It's up to you naturally, but even the MS site and instructions say this.

Edited by DrSarty

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pugpete1108

the ms plug i have been supplied with has a main ecu earth (thick one) and extra earth pins for the sensors yes but inside the multiplug the sensor wires are all soldered together with the main ecu earth.

 

i figured that instead of going all the way back to the ecu just to come back out and ground along with the main ground i just went straight to the chassis ground (where the main ecu is earthed to) witht the sensor earths too.

 

i did this when running tb's and all worked fine??

 

i initially went by this diagram:

 

wiring diagram

 

where does your main ecu ground go to then?

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DrSarty

I'm sure it'll run fine, but this is what the ECU manufacturers recommend.

 

My sensor gnd wires all go to one sensor ground ECU pin.

 

My ECU (main) ground goes to the main ground stud on the gearbox, which I've also linked to a chassis beam with a BFO earth strap.

 

Ultimately the sensor gnds do end up at the same stud, but it's earthed by the ECU, meaning all of the sensors are singing off a clean, base line 0v reference, or at the very least the same one.

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