Does This Rust Look Bad To You ?

[lemmingzappa 75 1 Cars]

Not sure what to think about the rust, does the beam look ok ?

Also is the bump stop an urgent matter ? (i'm running standard ride height). I'm not sure how the bump stops are fixed in place but this one has either rusted/fallen off.

 

I know the very rear of the boot floor is the worst as there are a couple of small holes there. Unfortunately i've never used a welder in my life.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I can't tell if it's minor surface rust or not, now i'm worried !

[welshpug 1,623]

looks like a load of surface rust to me, as well as shot sandwich mounts on the beam.

 

I would get some new bump stops, they're bolted on by an M8 bolt, you'll need to drill out the remains of the bolt

[lemmingzappa 75 1 Cars]

Thanks for the quick reply, the reason I couldn't tell the stops were bolted on is because it has completely rounded and smoothed off !

What's the best method for drilling it out ?

 

As for the sandwich mounts, I'm guessing it's worth uprating those to the Gp.N kind ? or maybe even waiting until I can afford a refurbed 309 beam ?

[gti-si 0]

Just be carefull with spirited driving with those sandwich mounts if there as bad as they look, I predict it'll make the back end very active. I've got solid (Grp A) on mine and there excellent.

[lemmingzappa 75 1 Cars]

I take it the whole beam needs to come off if I want to change them ?

 

I'm going to the Nurburgring on the 2nd Sep so I doubt I will be able to get it done myself by then. If the beam doesn't need to come off I guess I could have a go at changing the sandwich mounts.

[Anthony 1,000]

I take it the whole beam needs to come off if I want to change them ?

No if it's just the rear sandwich mounts that you want to change. If you jack the car up, and mostly undo the front mounts so that it's hanging on by a couple of threads, there's just about enough space to pull the old sandwich mounts out and put the new ones in. As said above, they look in a very poor state and like they've split in two, which will be giving some interesting rear steer effects - certainly if it was my car I'd want to get them replaced prior to the 'Ring.

 

If you want to install the full Group A kit, then the beam needs to come completely off to do the front mounts.

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

I'd get the brake lines changed ASAP the rear one is ready to snap which they do and leaves you with no Brakes

[jackherer 543]

If you want to install the full Group A kit, then the beam needs to come completely off to do the front mounts.

 

On that note, if you do just change the sandwich mounts leaving the old front mounts in place I wouldn't fit anything firmer than standard sandwich mounts. Brand new group N sandwich mounts with old front mounts can result in some pretty unpredictable behaviour.

[Tom Fenton 1,526]

Looks pretty average unmolested 205 condition to me. Agree with Miles on the brake lines though, if its like there its probably on a wing and a prayer above the fuel tank.

[omega 82]

if you going to the ring to give your car some serious hammer i would get the jobs done now so you can have confidence in the car and enjoy it

if it doesnt handle thers no point in going and if the brakes go!!!!!!!!!

[James_R 3]

I'd make sure you wear a helmet and have ADAC ++++ cover if you intend to take it like that.

[lemmingzappa 75 1 Cars]

Just popped down to my local French car specialist, and he said the brake lines are fine (they do look alot worse in the pictures tbh). Just surface rust I think as the previous owner said he did fit all new lines.

 

If you jack the car up, and mostly undo the front mounts so that it's hanging on by a couple of threads, there's just about enough space to pull the old sandwich mounts out and put the new ones in.

 

He said if I wanted to give it a go myself I shouldn't need to undo the front mounts at all. I just need to jack up the car and undo the bolt underneath the sandwich mounts and also a bolt underneath the carpet ? Also something about an offset pin which I didn't really understand ?

[j_turnell 134 3 Cars]

As above the brake pipe does look heavily corroded rather than just surface rust. Personally, i'd drop the rear axle completely, sort out all the surface rust and treat it, then give a good coat of waxoilunderseal or alike. Also have a proper check of the brake pipes and be certain there ok, copper lines are simple enough to do anyway for piece of mind, especially as your going to the Ring. Worth while knocking the beam apart and checking that while your at it and replace the sandwich mounts for def.

[lemmingzappa 75 1 Cars]

I've never dropped the rear beam before, I have no idea what i'm doing. I'd rather replace just the sandwich mounts for now and then check the rest of the beam when I have more time.

The only reason I say that is because I don't want to take it all apart and then not be able to put it back together for Germany !

[gti-si 0]

I'd definitely do as above looking at the corrosion around the beam. You'r going to give it some hammer going TO the ring, never mind when your there. You really need to know everything's in GWO, that definitely includes the beam. For the sake of some elbow grease and a little money, it's not worth rearsteering yourself into a barrier.

[lemmingzappa 75 1 Cars]

If I buy a Goodridge brakeline kit off eBay or a kit from Miles, will it replace the piece that you say is corroded ?

Edited August 13, 2009 by lemmingzappa

[j_turnell 134 3 Cars]

The Goodridge kits only replace the flexy pipes so front calipers, the beam flexys and the rear calipers but not the copper, but if your doing that any way its unlikely the unions will come undone, so the copper lines will need replacing, along with some fresh fluid.

 

Taking an axle off is very easy, the 6 bolts in the boot, handbrake cables, take backbox off, remove beam strap bolts, as its a 1.6 i'd just chop the copper nearest the brake cylinder and then lower it on a jack

Edited August 14, 2009 by j_turnell

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

The issue is on the brake lines is behind the fuel tank as you cannot see them and that is the area where they corrode worst of all, With the other lines looking like that I really would replace them as if it was to split you have no way of stopping, well bar the handbrake

Also another point is the Master Cylinder, If this is over 5 years old again I would replace.

Track use etc really does stain parts and for under £100.00 for the parts it could save you allot of hassle or even worse death, Little harsh I know.

[lemmingzappa 75 1 Cars]

Does the fuel tank need to be removed to fit new lines ?

And how much do you think it should reasonably cost to get the work done including parts + labour ?

 

Cheers !

[ALEX 98 1 Cars]

I replaced my bump stops as they were missing too.

There was no way I'd gat a spanner on the bolt to fit without it slipping off so I went straight for a set of mole grips.

If you heat it up with a blow lamp (I have a cheap £4 one I use for the odd bit of plumbing around the house) and hit the bolt head a few times with a hammer it should undo with a tight grip on the mole grips.

Edited August 19, 2009 by ALEX

[Guest freda155]

I don't think ANY of the remaining swedish 205:s look as good as that! Winter and cheap road salt ...

[Rich705 3]

Does the fuel tank need to be removed to fit new lines ?

And how much do you think it should reasonably cost to get the work done including parts + labour ?

 

Cheers !

Ive just had a quote for copper brake lines and depending on which garage its from £130 - £280 for parts ,labour and VAT.

 

...and yes i've been told you need to remove the fuel tank.

[j_turnell 134 3 Cars]

You dont need to remove the fuel tank, just drop it slightly by slackening off the two bolts, long reach 13mm iirc, then just gently lever it if neccessary, i'd give them a good soak in wd40 and wire-brushing prior though as there is a lot of exposed thred.