Mr Bob 1 Posted August 7, 2009 (edited) I once again have a problem with my s16 engine, everything was going fine till today, the small rubber pipe thats between the vacume pump and the avac electrovalve burst. I have replaced the pipe and blead the coolent system, that fine however now the engines running on 3 cylidners... I think The engine shakes alot at idle and the exhast noise is alot louder When you drive it it lacks accelatration, as in you put the foot down and it does nothing for a few seconds then it slowly picks up as if its running out of petrol. The only things I have done is with the engine at idle I took out 1 coil pack at a time and each of them where clicking. What should I do now? Thanks Bob Edited August 7, 2009 by Mr Bob Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
welshpug 1,737 Posted August 7, 2009 I don't understand why you had to bleed the cooling system when you replaced a vacuum hose! running on 3 on an S16/2.0 Mi16 is usually down to a coilpack fault, start her up and pull an injector plug off in turn till you find which cylinder it is, then swap that coilpack to another cylinder marking it with a marker or tippex, then do the same again to see if the fault moves. they will all click even if faulty, the most common issue is that the insulation fails and the spark jumps directly to earth and not down to the spark plug, so do take care as they'll give you a hell of a belt if you're unlucky. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mr Bob 1 Posted August 7, 2009 I don't understand why you had to bleed the cooling system when you replaced a vacuum hose! running on 3 on an S16/2.0 Mi16 is usually down to a coilpack fault, start her up and pull an injector plug off in turn till you find which cylinder it is, then swap that coilpack to another cylinder marking it with a marker or tippex, then do the same again to see if the fault moves. they will all click even if faulty, the most common issue is that the insulation fails and the spark jumps directly to earth and not down to the spark plug, so do take care as they'll give you a hell of a belt if you're unlucky. so if I remove the injector plugs I'm looking for the one that makes no diffrence if its pluged in or not? also it wasnt a vacume pipe it was the small rubber pipe the joins the metal coolent pipe that runs along the back on the engine with the bleed nipple on it to the thermostat housing kinda area, where the coolent temp sensor is after it burst it sprayed coolent over the gearbox side of the engine bay, then this happens, any chance the 2 are connected? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
welshpug 1,737 Posted August 7, 2009 yeah, you've got it could have got the coilpack wet, they don't like it at all though drying them and the plug wells normally sorts it Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DrSarty 113 1 Cars Posted August 7, 2009 (edited) so if I remove the injector plugs I'm looking for the one that makes no diffrence if its pluged in or not? also it wasnt a vacume pipe it was the small rubber pipe the joins the metal coolent pipe that runs along the back on the engine with the bleed nipple on it to the thermostat housing kinda area, where the coolent temp sensor is after it burst it sprayed coolent over the gearbox side of the engine bay, then this happens, any chance the 2 are connected? To line 1 yes. By removing supply to an injector you're stopping fuel being sprayed into a cylinder. You have a misfire, i.e. one cylinder isn't generating a power stroke. By removing the power to an injector you can find out which cylinder is not making that power stroke and isolate the problem. In this case it's most likely a spark issue because... (Line 3) Loose water in the engine bay can play havoc with the electrics. French electrics at best are fragile, so perhaps you've shorted something out, e.g. a coil pack and that's what's causing the misfire. Fortunately you're looking at a simple ~£15 fix by swapping FUBAR'd for new. Good luck. Edited August 7, 2009 by DrSarty Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mr Bob 1 Posted August 7, 2009 fond some puddel in my sparkplugs and it seems fine now, need to take it a drive and see cheers!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mr Bob 1 Posted August 8, 2009 (edited) Have to take that back... As you can see theres some dried up coolent thats over spilled into the coil pack area. 2 of the coils where wet at the ends after drying them up and the sparkplug holes I took out the plugs and gave them a wipe and a clean up with wet n dry, then it was going fine so took it a drive and after 5 or so mins the engine light came on and it started to run lumpy again. So now it runs fine for a bit then starts to go wonky. Really stuck on this one. But on a good note the AVAC has started working. One thing thats on my mind is... The wiring to the packs is a bit exposed and it got the brunt of the water, after having a look theres 2 sets of 4 wires the join into 1 wire with just heat shrink, could that be causing any problems do you think? Edited August 8, 2009 by Mr Bob Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
welshpug 1,737 Posted August 8, 2009 that is a standard connection I think, 4 earths by the looks of it, water will certainly play havoc if its got into that plug Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mr Bob 1 Posted August 8, 2009 (edited) Any tips on how to dry it out? or will it dry out over time? Today is abit better however, it was running lumpy but I left it a while now it runs ok but it will start to run lumpy intermittently. A new thing I have noticed is at idle the ecu light will come on if you rev it for a few seconds it will go out, but sitting at idle again it will come back on, any ideas? I have a 306 cabriolet meet/get together in 2 weeks time and I really want to make it, with the car in its current state I'm not sure I wanna do long journeys in it! Thanks again by the way! Bob Edited August 8, 2009 by Mr Bob Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fast_eddie 0 Posted August 8, 2009 Try a hair drier? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mr Bob 1 Posted August 8, 2009 Yes I was thinking that But what I meant was if I dry it out will the wires be left oxidized/corroded, if so is there away to stop this, like will a squirt of wd40 etc help? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fast_eddie 0 Posted August 9, 2009 I squirt wd40 over everything!!!--I know people say it rots rubber but I have a 21 year old car that has been covered in the stuff for 20 years and until someone shows me the negative effect of it ill keep using it. The other day I removed a large 8mm earthing unit from the n/s inner wing and its the first time it have ever been out and it almost fell out once it was loosened! I know it contains a little water too but it has done the job for me and I even made my own jump leads up and never got a missfire in torrential rain either ? Plenty of the stuff everywhere for me!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mr Bob 1 Posted August 11, 2009 Dryed out all the connectors, filled them up with wd40 and reconnected them and it worked for a while but it started to run lumpy again so I just removed the loom and replaced it with one off my old engine, just means I had to replace the 02/lambda sensor as the connections where diffrent. Since doing that it runs fine again ... so far anyway. Just need new driveshaft and find out where my power steering luids leaking from and Ill be happy again! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mr Bob 1 Posted August 14, 2009 Problems again... Everthing was going fine once again so took it a long drive, about an hour or so in to the drive the revs started to jump exactly like as if it was hitting the limiter, it idles and drives fine but wont rev over 3k, it just bounces like its limited any ideas? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
