Rust And Seal Mission, Whole Underbody

[pugpete1108 62 1 Cars]

seeing as the ecu is off being repaired i tholught i would crack on with treating all the little bits of rust forming inside and outside the car.

 

also thought i would have a bash a refurbing my rear beam which is siezed on one side and nearly seized on the other.

 

when removing the beam today i noticed quite alot of rust bubbles coming through the under boot area so i have decided to re waxoyl the whole bottom of the car.

 

the plan is to put the car up on axle stands and strip everything off the bottom from the bulkhead back( i know the egine bay is ok as i did this before putting the engine in)

 

brush/sand the rusty bits back and treat the metal, then some rust primer and then coat the whole bottom with waxoyl.

 

i might even have a look at re routing the brake and fuel lines inside the cab while i'm there.

 

when it comes to the rear beam, i understand the trailing arm shafts will be knackered but i have another set spare.

but can i use any other trailing arms from say a 306 (with disks) will they fit and what options do i have?

 

i also understand that the beam tube may well be knackered too? obviously i will only know when i have got it stripped down.

 

any hints/tips and opinions on the above may well save me alot of swearing and scraped knuckles

 

looks like i'm not selling it after all

[MerlinGTI 3]

I'm doing the same thing shortly ( as soon as 309 beam is finished )

my plan is to scotch pad off all the old waxoil with panel wipe. This will leave all the old good paint and sealer intact and Give a good clean and keyed surphace for the next step as well as alerting me to any rust patches. Grind these back with with a rust wheel on a drill, treat with granville converter and local rattle can prime. Finally I'm gonna smooth hammerite in White (body colour) the whole lot with a house radiator paint roller/brush. Fit beam, take pics, get them up on the pc and play with myself repeatidly

 

oh then wax oil all the nooks and crannys.

 

If you beam is already seized chances are the tube is scrap, but you won't know for sure untill it's apart

[welshpug 1,626]

while you're at it you might as well drop the fuel tank off, most of the unseen rot on 205's is often hidden by it.

[MerlinGTI 3]

while you're at it you might as well drop the fuel tank off, most of the unseen rot on 205's is often hidden by it.

 

Quoted for the truth

 

Some links:

 

Rust drill attachment thingy:

 

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/72889/Abrasi...nt-Rust-Remover

 

I have this exact one and they are brilliant. Rust and paint is gone in seconds while it leaves the metal alone. Kicks wire brushes in the balls.

 

Scotch pads:

 

http://www.expresspaints.co.uk/catalog/pro...roducts_id=4283

 

Simular to the green kitchen pads, dont try these though the propper ones are in a completely different leauge.

 

Panel wipe:

 

http://www.expresspaints.co.uk/catalog/pro...roducts_id=1744

 

A bit like household white spirit, but again in a different leauge. Dont be tempted by the cheaper auto thinners it will munch up and disolve the old paint = bad. Panel wipe will not.

 

Rust converter:

 

http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp?pro...tName=Granville Rust Converter (250ml)&catID=28&frostCat=Rust&frostSubCat=Others&subCatID=34

 

A 'Krust' clone, used by the M.O.D on oil rigs apparently.

Edited August 6, 2009 by MerlinGTI

[dale205mills 39 7 Cars]

Bit of topic, but express paints are spot on for paint products, I buy all my paint from there. I will look forward to seeing some pictures of your handy work, I painted the underside of my peugeot last year.

[MerlinGTI 3]

Bit of topic, but express paints are spot on for paint products, I buy all my paint from there. I will look forward to seeing some pictures of your handy work, I painted the underside of my peugeot last year.

 

Dont be shy!, show us some pics

[Pob 1]

Dont be shy!, show us some pics

 

I did the boot floor on mine last year before refitting the beam. It's such a messy job! I got plastered in old underseal, rust, mud.... Looks loads better now though I would definatly try that drill attatchment thingy, I used a angle grinder with a wire bush... Getting stab by bits of wire that have lodged themself in your overalls isn't nice

 

I've got a few spots on mine that needs looking at where the original undersealent has split and rust has started to form. I'm not totally removing it, just the bit that need treating.

 

Dan

[pugpete1108 62 1 Cars]

while you're at it you might as well drop the fuel tank off, most of the unseen rot on 205's is often hidden by it.

 

i was thinking that myself as it looked a bit cruddy under there and seeing as i'm doing the fuel lines to it would make sense.

how hard a job is it? i'm always a bit nervous when dealing with fuel, is it safe just to leave a tank with fuel in it lying around?

 

 

Quoted for the truth

 

Some links:

 

Rust drill attachment thingy:

 

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/72889/Abrasi...nt-Rust-Remover

 

I have this exact one and they are brilliant. Rust and paint is gone in seconds while it leaves the metal alone. Kicks wire brushes in the balls.

 

Scotch pads:

 

http://www.expresspaints.co.uk/catalog/pro...roducts_id=4283

 

Simular to the green kitchen pads, dont try these though the propper ones are in a completely different leauge.

 

Panel wipe:

 

http://www.expresspaints.co.uk/catalog/pro...roducts_id=1744

 

A bit like household white spirit, but again in a different leauge. Dont be tempted by the cheaper auto thinners it will munch up and disolve the old paint = bad. Panel wipe will not.

 

Rust converter:

 

http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp?pro...tName=Granville Rust Converter (250ml)&catID=28&frostCat=Rust&frostSubCat=Others&subCatID=34

 

A 'Krust' clone, used by the M.O.D on oil rigs apparently.

 

i got a similar attachment to that and have a pot of krust (hammerite) which works well i'll nick the wifes scotch pads and i'll pick up some solvent to clean it with.

not really looking forward to the mess tbh but hey its gotta be done.

 

and with regards to the beam if i strip it and see i wont have lost anything except my time i can just get hold of another one

[MerlinGTI 3]

and with regards to the beam if i strip it and see i wont have lost anything except my time i can just get hold of another one

 

Indeedy

 

how hard a job is it?

 

If you happy rebuilding a beam, dropping a tank out is a peice of piss in comparasion, only real problem might be rusty fixings.

 

i'm always a bit nervous when dealing with fuel, is it safe just to leave a tank with fuel in it lying around?

 

The propper way is to pump out the old fuel first into a sealed container, but not exactly an easy task if you dont have the gear to do it. You could avoid petrol garages leading up to the work comencing (assuming the cars currently in use) so your not dealing with a full tank, cap off all the tanks orifices with something suitable (maybe some sort of rubber + jubilee clips?) and store the tank outside, well clear of any sources of ignition. Bit naughty tho.

 

or borrow a pump and a couple of jerry cans of course

 

 

I've got a few spots on mine that needs looking at where the original undersealent has split and rust has started to form. I'm not totally removing it, just the bit that need treating

 

Im sure you already know, but I will say it anyway... any seam sealer thats removed from Panel overlaps/joins really should be replaced once removed and the rust has been treated, rather than just painted over. Brush on seam sealer is readily avaible

Edited August 6, 2009 by MerlinGTI

[pugpete1108 62 1 Cars]

Indeedy

 

 

 

If you happy rebuilding a beam, dropping a tank out is a peice of piss in comparasion, only real problem might be rusty fixings.

 

 

 

The propper way is to pump out the old fuel first into a sealed container, but not exactly an easy task if you dont have the gear to do it. You could avoid petrol garages leading up to the work comencing (assuming the cars currently in use) so your not dealing with a full tank, cap off all the tanks orifices with something suitable (maybe some sort of rubber + jubilee clips?) and store the tank outside, well clear of any sources of ignition. Bit naughty tho.

 

or borrow a pump and a couple of jerry cans of course

 

tell me about rusty fixings bloody brake unions were so corroded i had to cut the copper pipe to get the rear beam off, which is ok as i'm gonna replace it anyway and its only cheap.

 

and i only put a jerry can in (i should imagine from empty as it was sat for near on two years and the light was on) so there can only be that much in it, i will probabally leave it and try and patch the holes for now,how many is there anyway? just filler, breather and pump hole? or can i leave the pump in situ?

 

actually i might get it off and drain it into a can when its off the car. tbh i dont know why i am worrying as i deal with highly flams at work all day...its just petrol nasty flamey stuff

[MerlinGTI 3]

You can leave the pump in yes but obviously you need to lift up the back seat, dissconnect the wires and pipes from the pump before you drop the tank out With just a jerry cans worth in id drop the tank out, poor whats in it into a container of some sort and dispose. Modern fuel is only good for 6 weeks anyways Infact if the fuel is considerbly older than six weeks it probably wont even ignite, please dont test it tho and blame me when u have no eyebrows lol

Edited August 6, 2009 by MerlinGTI

[welshpug 1,626]

don't forget that the tank will weigh a ton if its got fuel in it!

[pugpete1108 62 1 Cars]

You can leave the pump in yes but obviously you need to lift up the back seat, dissconnect the wires and pipes from the pump before you drop the tank out With just a jerry cans worth in id drop the tank out, poor whats in it into a container of some sort and dispose. Modern fuel is only good for 6 weeks anyways Infact if the fuel is considerbly older than six weeks it probably wont even ignite, please dont test it tho and blame me when u have no eyebrows lol

 

cheers, i have no back seats so that not a problem

 

the fuel has been in a month or so so i will just chuck it

 

cheers for the advice, will get some before and after pics posted

[welshpug 1,626]

sod chucking fuel!!!

[paul205mi16 4]

I have left fuel well over 12 moths and car started with no problems what so ever, I dont think it goes off, so dont chuck it. Put it in a jerry can or the like.

[MerlinGTI 3]

I've dropped fuel out of a Capri that hadent been started for 6 months because it wasn't running, new fuel and it started and ran fine.

 

If we are talking about a jerry cans worth, what's it matter anyway? Good opertunity to clean all the crap out of the tank while your at it

[welshpug 1,626]

that's because it was a FORD with a carb, ICK!!!!

 

you must be rich if you can afford to chuck £20's away....

Edited August 7, 2009 by welshpug

[MerlinGTI 3]

Im not rich! My names chris

 

(groan)

 

keep the bloody fuel then

 

ot: how are you after the focus incident mr welsh pug? Ok?

[pugpete1108 62 1 Cars]

that's because it was a FORD with a carb, ICK!!!!

 

you must be rich if you can afford to chuck £20's away....

 

how in the hell are you getting £20 in a jerry can? or we talking the big metal ones?