davemar 16 Posted July 12, 2009 I still haven't got round to sort my sagging doors out. I think the holes the pins go through are worn, rather than just the pin itself. How much of a hassle is it to drill out the holes to fit a larger pin? Access for a drill doesn't look very easy to me. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
EdCherry 34 1 Cars Posted July 12, 2009 Think you answered your own question there really... take the doors off. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Craigb 2 Posted July 12, 2009 You can get a draper tool for knocking them out . Even with one of these i still had to take a door off to do one of mine . Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DrSarty 90 1 Cars Posted July 13, 2009 It's a 205. Changing an air freshener can be 'a fiddle'. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davemar 16 Posted July 17, 2009 What's the best way of supporting the door (rarely have spare hands around to help)? I assume I haven't got to remove it a long way away, so I can keep the wiring loom still connected? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
omega 82 Posted July 17, 2009 trolley jack with a piece of wood under the door if you havnt got a spare pair of hands Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rippthrough 98 Posted July 17, 2009 I'd take the door off, it's hardened steel so it's a bit of a bugger to drill, keep the drill speed set to slow. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
M@tt 77 Posted July 17, 2009 you really need some sort of right angled drill to drill the holes on the portion attached to the car properly, you'd have to take the wing of to attack the top one fromabove, there isn't enough gap between the 2 to get a normal drill between them and the sill is in the way to attack the bottom one from underneath. It's a bit of a pain and as phil said its hardednd to take it slowly with the drill speed Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SurGie 54 Posted July 21, 2009 Iv wondered how to stop the door droping. Would filling the hole up with fiberglass or filler be ok or will it just go back to normal after a while of use ? What about using a welder to do the job ? Im not keen on drilling bigger holes to stop the dropping of doors, are the 405 pins the best to use if drilling is only the beat way ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
welshpug 1,626 Posted July 21, 2009 the only way to prevent them dropping over time is to not open the door.... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pob 1 Posted July 21, 2009 the only way to prevent them dropping over time is to not open the door.... On mine I replaced the door hinges with the torx head type hinge pins (If you have the early type rolled hinge pins) The much later models seem to have different hinge bracket (The bit on the car) which seem to have inserts in the holes, which is a good idea as it saves making the hole going oval and wearing the inserts/bushes instead Dan Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SurGie 54 Posted July 21, 2009 On mine I replaced the door hinges with the torx head type hinge pins (If you have the early type rolled hinge pins) The much later models seem to have different hinge bracket (The bit on the car) which seem to have inserts in the holes, which is a good idea as it saves making the hole going oval and wearing the inserts/bushes instead Dan Interesting, do you have any pics of the torx head type pins or part number to hand ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pob 1 Posted July 21, 2009 Interesting, do you have any pics of the torx head type pins or part number to hand ? If you've got the early type hinges with the pins that knock in, you'll have to replace the hinge part that bolts to the door. I think they are fitted >'91 Any 205 hinges will be fine aslong as they are the torx head type Dan Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davemar 16 Posted July 22, 2009 I assume you have to weld on the replacement hinges to the body? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SurGie 54 Posted July 22, 2009 I read that you only have to replace the door bolted on hinges. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pob 1 Posted July 22, 2009 I read that you only have to replace the door bolted on hinges. That is correct... unless of course the hole in the part of the hinge that is welded to the body is that badly damaged. It reduced the play no end in mine, there was a little bit of play in one hinge due to drilling out a old pin stuck in the hinge welded to the body. But once the door was bolted on there wasn't any play in the door. I went to the local scrappy and got the hinges, think mine were from a Junior or something similar. I bought new hinge pins though, not expensive. Dan Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davemar 16 Posted July 24, 2009 When I wiggle my door up and down it appears that the movement is due to the hinge hole (on the body half of the hinge) being enlarged. So my options are either drilling out the hole and fitting larger pins, or welding on new hinges. I do have a MIG welder, by my skills are rather limited, so I'm favouring the drilling out approach at the moment. What can I use for large pins, and are generic ones available of various sizes, rather than hunting around for car specific versions? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pob 1 Posted July 24, 2009 When I wiggle my door up and down it appears that the movement is due to the hinge hole (on the body half of the hinge) being enlarged. So my options are either drilling out the hole and fitting larger pins, or welding on new hinges. I do have a MIG welder, by my skills are rather limited, so I'm favouring the drilling out approach at the moment. What can I use for large pins, and are generic ones available of various sizes, rather than hunting around for car specific versions? Is your's the early type hinge pins? I.e you knock them in... When I removed the door on mine the hinges had loads of play, not in the part that attaches to the door. The pin was rattling around in the hinge part welded to the car. You can get away with the hole being slightly ovaled, I'd try a new later type torx hinge pin. It's always worth trying a easy fix first than drilling it out. The pins are hardened steel and the hinges aren't so drilling it out isnt easy.... Dan Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wildejon 7 Posted July 24, 2009 When I wiggle my door up and down it appears that the movement is due to the hinge hole (on the body half of the hinge) being enlarged. So my options are either drilling out the hole and fitting larger pins, or welding on new hinges. I do have a MIG welder, by my skills are rather limited, so I'm favouring the drilling out approach at the moment. What can I use for large pins, and are generic ones available of various sizes, rather than hunting around for car specific versions? I'm keeping a close eye on this topic, I have the exact same problem with the lower hinge on my door. I have the pins but 99% certain they won't improve the situation much, seems to be the hinge that has ovalled. Pretty local to you, if you need an extra pair of hands, fancy having a fixing doors day? I could use the help with mine also! Tempted to follow Welshpug's advice and avoid using the door but I honestly can't be arsed to use the sunroof all the time... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davemar 16 Posted July 28, 2009 I removed the lower hinge pin the other evening, it required a lot of heat and a lot of hammering, but finally got it out. The pin was badly worn, and the hinge hole was quite ovalled too. A new standard pin would improve it a bit, but I'd really prefer to drill it out and fit a larger pin. I've just ordered some 8mm pins (not got them yet), and will attempt to drill out the hole when I get the chance. Unfortunately the combination of having a toddler who needs attention and the great British summer means I rarely get much time to attack the car at the moment. I've shut the door with only the top hinge attached at the moment, so I'm not driving it anywhere at the until the bottom hinge is done. Jacks and wheelie-bins came in handy supporting the door. wildejon, I'll try and fix this lower driver's side hinge pin to start with, and if that goes well I'll let you know. A spare pair of hands could be useful if you don't mind a drive to East Grinstead. It's really a job you want to finish once you've started though, so I'll let you know if I've got any free time soon. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wildejon 7 Posted July 29, 2009 Good stuff, glad to hear you are tackling it! I've been putting mine off for months Don't mind helping you out at all, just shout. I'll use what I learn to fix my own! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davemar 16 Posted July 29, 2009 Managed to do both the driver door's pins this evening - not helped by it hammering it down halfway through; just had to carry on while getting soaked. Drilling out was surprisingly easy, a bit sticky but got through pretty quickly. I did screw up on the lower hinge (car body part, not door part) though by picking up the wrong drill bit and making the hole 0.5mm too big, so it is pretty slack. The top one was fine though. I used a 8.5mm bit with the 8mm stainless pins and it seems pretty tight. As it was lashing it down I didn't really adjust the door very well on the hinges, so it shuts fine but looks like it needs tweaking a bit. I might try and shim the lower hinge to tighten it up a bit. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
