si-mi16 0 Posted June 29, 2009 hi all, im taking my mi16 engine out my 205 on wednesday, i havent done this before so am after any tips anyone has to offer to aid me. where are the points at which people pull the engine out located on the engine, i will be using a engine hoist with 1 tonne breaking strane rope. so is there any major points about from the obvious like disconnecting all sensors attached to engine and driveshafts. any help asap would be greatly appreciated. thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sub205 5 Posted June 30, 2009 its possible, but more complicated to pull the engine to the upside. its easier to pull it under the car. to get it out on the upside, you need to tilt it or remove the gearbox first. tilting is easy when you know how to do it, but i would advise you to remove the gearbox if this is your first engine change. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DrSarty 113 1 Cars Posted June 30, 2009 (edited) I'll state the obvious so you have everything below: (EDIT: and as Cameron says - use the Haynes manual, although I've tried to save you the cash if you didn't have one) - disconnect battery & remove - remove earth straps on engine - remove power lead to starter - remove all loom connections from engine (sensors etc) - disconnect clutch cable and gear linkages - drain coolant and take hoses off one end (which ever end is easiest) - drain gearbox oil (must unless you bung it when removing the driveshafts) and engine oil draining is optional - disconnect exhaust manifold to downpipe joint - remove fuel lines going to fuel rail and bung up (be careful!!! at pressure) - remove the battery tray (4 bolts - some inside and concealed) *this means you don't have to remove the gear box* - remove drive shafts from gearbox, but you are supposed to leave them in the hubs if the weight of the car is on the wheels - remove larger items such as air inlet system (rubber hosing/airbox - you can leave the manifold on) - attach the chains or ropes to the two hoist points (as long as they haven't been removed - these are bolted to the head at either end; usually black rings) - and lift the tw@ out, as mentioned, perhaps loading it on the chains on the skew so that the cam belt end comes up first which keeps the gearbox down allowing it to clear the chassis member Hope that helps. Edited June 30, 2009 by DrSarty Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
si-mi16 0 Posted June 30, 2009 thanks DrSarty, great advice, will help me out a bunch, will also check the haynes, didnt know it told you how to remove a whole engine? shows how much i know Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DrSarty 113 1 Cars Posted June 30, 2009 thanks DrSarty, great advice, will help me out a bunch, will also check the haynes, didnt know it told you how to remove a whole engine? shows how much i know No probs. The formula for removing most FWD engines is as above. Some will have PAS or turbo and intercoolers but otherwise it's much the same. However, I think you owe us a good sit down with a few pots of tea and thorough read of the Haynes manual. You'll be surprised how much you learn. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
si-mi16 0 Posted June 30, 2009 No probs. The formula for removing most FWD engines is as above. Some will have PAS or turbo and intercoolers but otherwise it's much the same. However, I think you owe us a good sit down with a few pots of tea and thorough read of the Haynes manual. You'll be surprised how much you learn. have had the haynes since my first car(205 xs) 6 years ago. and havent read it.oppps. havent really needed till i got this cars . will spend some time reading it, ask me in a week the 4th letter on the 6t line of page 153 in a week. il resite the lot.lol . thanks though DrSarty greatful Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rom 0 Posted June 30, 2009 (edited) I always remove my engine from the top, had it in and out of mine about 4 times now Without sounding an ass, im a Tech, so its straight forawrd for me. It needs to be at quite an angle (cambelt end high, gearbox end low) to come out. Ill probably get grief for saying this...but here goes I use a seatbelt or strap, around the inlet manifold, rigth back towards the head. Then hook the engine crane onto the belt. This lifts it roughly the same angle as it sits in the car (front to back) so is easy to line up when going in. And because your lifting engine side, the weight of the box pulls down, and puts it at about the right angle to come in and out. Obviously rad, grille, need to come off, bumper can stay, light can, but be careful of the little black adjusters. Use plenty of masking tape where you might scratch stuff. Heres a couple of pics... Mi going in for first time Mi going in last year Didnt take any of it going in this year lol. Was too worried about scratching the new paint. But heres one of it in, you can see a 'couple' of layers of masking tape, do the inner wings where alternator might catch, and the other side where gearbox might hit, just about everywhere you can get to to be safe. Edited June 30, 2009 by Rom Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kate205gti 4 Posted June 30, 2009 label the loom unless your 100% sure, undo the 3 engine mounts ( ) and take rad out as said to avoid it getting mushed dont forget the speed sensor either - and the water hoses at the back - basically hang over the back of the engine bay and look for anything still attached lol Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
si-mi16 0 Posted July 1, 2009 ahhh, all done now. took me 5 hours to remove everything and get the bleeder out. 1st amtempt lifting it out i struggled like fook as the rope(1 tonne breaking strane) i was using to lift the engine was to lone from the hoist to the engine. didnt realise the like between the hoist and engine had to be so short, thought the hoist lifted higher to be honest all out now though,gearbox off,clutch off which had ap racing stamped on it(nice) ans sitting nicely on my nice new engine stand.lovely. thanks for everyones advice cheers. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
si-mi16 0 Posted July 1, 2009 by the way rom last picture is just pure sex, hoping for a similar finish with my pug albeit in black Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MerlinGTI 3 Posted July 1, 2009 Yup I just came Rom Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
si-mi16 0 Posted July 1, 2009 does anyone know of the sort of part worth replacing now the engine is out. i havent got a massive amount of money to spend. if i take the sump off to have a look is there any give away signs that would idicate wear or need of replacemnet. i.e big end bearings. or is it not worth it? what is the morn that gets replaced by you guys?? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rom 0 Posted July 2, 2009 Haha Cheers...i think Its a slippery slope if you start replacing things. You havent said WHY your taking it out ? You could go with the age old 'if it aint broke dont fix it' If there were no noises or leaks, and you were happy with how it ran etc. Leave it alone. Or, you could rebuild it. Which would be new shells, rings, head gasket, water pump, cambelt, etc. Imo, unless i knew the shells had gone or something, i wouldnt replace anything in particular. Id either leave it alone, or complete rebuild it. But im kind of all or nothing. Really depends why you took it out, and what it was like when it was in there ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
si-mi16 0 Posted July 2, 2009 to be honest i took it out as when the head gasket went i replaced the cam belt,water pump,head gasket but i struggled with the timing of the belt and although its been done now im not 100% satisfied with it and seeing as im treating it to a full respray and changing the inlet cam which meens messing with the timing its best i do things to make my life easier, plus im in no rush to get it back on the road,looking round may time next year lucky i still have me mcs to run round in Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
