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peterbardell

Mi16 Wiring Help

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peterbardell

Hi,

 

I have pretty much downloaded and printed all the Mi16 wiring info i can find to help fit the Mi16 alloy block engine in my J Reg 205 1.9 Gti and have finally wired it all up. The problem is i (stupidly) purchased the engine off ebay and the loom had already been altered and it came it two parts. The first loom connects to the ECU and also connects to the fuel pump & ignition relays, brown and yellow connectors by the distributor, Afm etc ect and the other loom connects to the 9 pin and 6 pin brown multi connectors under the dash and then runs to the ignition amp, coil and brown mulit plug that runs to the sensors on the engine block, alternator, sensors on the thermostat etc etc.

 

The problem i have is that the starter engages one click before it should when turning the ignition key(ie when the key springs back after engaging the starter it is still trying to start the engine). The engine turns over but i get no spark at the plugs but i think i can smell petrol on them so i believe the fuel pump is working.

 

I also have a max power 5 (toad i think) cat 1 alarm and immobiliser fitted which i hope is not interfering as the engine it turning over but is there anyway to make sure?

 

Any help would be much appreciated!

 

Many Thanks

 

Pete

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GLPoomobile

This is just a shot in the dark as it's late, I don;t have my wiring diagram to hand, and I'm not as clued up on this as some others, but I suspect you may have the switched live and starter wires the wrong way around in one of the plugs under the dash. Pug cleverly swapped some of the wires around in some years, you see :unsure:

 

So, if your starter solenoid wire is joined to the switched live wire under the dash, I'd guess it would fire the starter when you get to the first point on the ignition barrel. Well it makes sense in my head anyway :)

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jackherer

Yes as above, pin 9 on one plug and pin 6 on the other IIRC

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peterbardell

So i have rewired the 'link loom' so it matches the guides on the forum so the 6 pin and 9 pin brown multiplugs that connect to the matching connectors under the dash of my 205 are wired as follows,

 

connector (brown)

1 52 reverselight

2 53 reverselight

3 47 coolant light

4 47A coolant meter

5 7A alternator

6 30 oilpresure meter

7 30A oiltemp meter

8 30B oilpresure light

9 2 switched +

 

connector (brown)

1 47B coolant fluid level

2 76 fuelpump

3 M47B coolant fluid level

4 112 rpm meter

5 74 K-light

6 46 startermotor

 

The only problem i had with this is that i had no wire to connect to the fuel pump on the 6 pin connector, i looked at the 405 wiring diagram and it looks to me that i need to run it to a fuse that then runs to pin 5 on the fuel pump relay. (I had a look at the loom i took out of the 205 and pin 2 on the 6 pin mulitplug connects to the grey wire on all injectors, pin 4 on the AFM and pin 2 on the throttle body plug) any idea how to connect this to the 405 loom?

 

The second problem is although i wired both multiplugs as above the car still trys to start one click before to should. I checked the 9 and 6 pin plugs on the loom i removed from the 205 and the 9 pin matches exactly as above but the 6 pin is wired like this,

 

1. No wire

2. 76 white (Fuel pump)

3. Thick yellow and green (it doesn't say M47b just *M*)

4. Thin grey (that looks like 1123 but i guess it means 112B)

5. No wire

6. 2A Thick red and 32A thin yellow

 

Does this explain why it is not starting correctly and im not getting a spark but i guess more to the point how do i wire the 6 pin link loom to match the 6 pin from the old 205 loom.

 

oh, if it helps the ECU number is 0261200140 im not sure it its 4.1 or 1.3 or even if it makes a difference?

 

Ive spent ages trying to work this out and have not got very far so any info to help would be great!

 

Many Thanks

 

Pete

Edited by peterbardell

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peterbardell

So Wire 2A is switched+ so as advised it was just a case of swapping the starter and Switched+ wires to solve the starting issues.

 

However, i still cant get a spark. I wired the fuel pump to the switched+ to get it to work but im guessing this is not the best think to do?

 

Also, it there any way of 'home' testing the ECU?

 

Pete

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