Vibration And Noise When Moving.

[davemar 16]

I've started to get some grinding-like noise and vibration through the pedals when moving along. It doesn't seem to be engine speed related, or changed if I did the clutch. It's quite difficult to describe, but it's obviously coming from the front of the car. Could driveshafts on their way out give symptons like this? It does feel sort of the drivetrain related.

[Guest mrtcotton]

I've started to get some grinding-like noise and vibration through the pedals when moving along. It doesn't seem to be engine speed related, or changed if I did the clutch. It's quite difficult to describe, but it's obviously coming from the front of the car. Could driveshafts on their way out give symptons like this? It does feel sort of the drivetrain related.

 

sounds like a driveshaft/cv joint to me

[t16ryan 1]

Check your gearbox bolts are tight,

[davemar 16]

If the bolts are loose, I can only blame myself, as I replaced the clutch only a couple of weeks ago! I will check them though.

[kyepan 291]

Check your gearbox bolts are tight,

i second this, make sure the threads are clean and get some threadlock in there.

[Simes 248 2 Cars]

cambelt cover hitting the master cylinder?

[davemar 16]

The gearbox bolts were all as tight as a badger's wotsit. The cambelt cover is well clear of the master cylinder too.

 

I stuck the front up on axle stands this evening so I could power the wheels while stationary. When in neutral there was no vibration, but in gear quite a lot with noise. I would say mostly felt through the steering and pedals, but quite difficult to pin down. I'm edging towards driveshaft at the moment.

 

What symptoms would a bent crankshaft give, or a knackered diff? (Just thinking outside the box a little).

[davemar 16]

I replaced the right-hand driveshaft as I felt the vibrations were coming from that side, but that hasn't improved things.

 

I feel the vibration through the floor by the pedals, I wonder whether it's the exhaust now.

[yorkshirekowboy 19 1 Cars]

I replaced the right-hand driveshaft as I felt the vibrations were coming from that side, but that hasn't improved things.

 

I feel the vibration through the floor by the pedals, I wonder whether it's the exhaust now.

 

 

do you have a solid bottom engine mount? if so that probs will be the culprit.

[davemar 16]

No, just a standard rubber jobby. It looked OK when I was poking around under there doing the driveshaft.

[davemar 16]

I've had a further poke around, and now I reckon it's the front right wheel bearing. There seems to be a little bit of play when wiggling the wheel, and I can hear the movement. Not a lot, but it might be enough to explain this problem.

 

In the 13 years I've had the car, I've never needed to replace a wheel bearing. How much hassle is it? Am I right in assuming I'll have to use a man with a hydraulic press to get the old one out and the new one in?

[dcc 855]

exhaust hitting the tunnel?

[davemar 16]

No, I've checked that and made sure the exhaust joints were all tightened up. It feels more running gear than engine.

[jimistdt 1]

How to change a wheel bearing

 

Its cheaper to get the hub off and take it to the garage to press the new bearing in. New bearings are around the £10 mark from GSF.

[C_W 3 1 Cars]

cambelt cover hitting the master cylinder?

 

My first thought too.

 

Sometimes even with a decent gap, it's surprising how much the engine moves around and the slightly touching there gives a vibration mainly though the pedals.

[davemar 16]

It's more a vibration through the floor than the pedals. The master cylinder is well clear of the cambelt cover as I fitted some thick-ish shims behind the engine mount rubber buffers to prevent this from happening a long time ago.

 

I'm going to replace the wheel bearing when I get over this flu. Talk of the devil... the postman has just turned up with it.

[C_W 3 1 Cars]

I took my hub to a local engine shop to have the old bearing pressed out and a new one pressed in - not worth the hassle trying to do it yourself as you might damage the bearing. Also leave the old bearing complete (keep the inner cups in as they will probably use that to press against to get the old one out.

[davemar 16]

I removed the hub carrier today (I've waited until I can use the hydraulic press at work) and the bearing does sound rough. The circlip looks very rusty, and I certainly couldn't get any movement of it with a pair of long-nose pliers. I haven't got circlip plier that are large enough, will long-nose do the job? I'm soaking it in de-rusting liquid at the moment, but what's the best way of budging a rusted in circlip?

[jimistdt 1]

I removed the hub carrier today (I've waited until I can use the hydraulic press at work) and the bearing does sound rough. The circlip looks very rusty, and I certainly couldn't get any movement of it with a pair of long-nose pliers. I haven't got circlip plier that are large enough, will long-nose do the job? I'm soaking it in de-rusting liquid at the moment, but what's the best way of budging a rusted in circlip?

 

How did you get on with it?

 

These can be tough to get out, as you've found. Give it a couple of smacks with a small chisel to try and chase it round a bit. Me and Graham managed it to close it up with a pair of bent nosed pliers, then you need to get something small behind the circlip to stop it popping back then writhe the thing out, it probably wont be pretty, but you should have a new circlip with the bearing anyway.

[davemar 16]

The circlip has completely rusted in, and no amount of bashing is budging it. We're going to try applying heat to it next.

 

We pressed the hub flange out, but the bearing runner was still stuck to it, and I can't see any way of getting that off. Any ideas? Lots of heat again?

[jimistdt 1]

If you've still got access to the press then what we did was to support underneath the bearing and press down on the flange.

 

 

 

You might be able to make it out in this picture;

 

Edited June 8, 2009 by jimistdt

[davemar 16]

I got the bearing off the flange with an angle grinder, and didn't mark the flange too much either. There wasn't any room under the bearing to get any leverage like you've got in that picture.

 

Still haven't got the circlip out. I've removed the ball and gubbins from the bearing, so there's only the race left which give better access to the circlip. I've tried grinding the clip back a bit to weaken it with a very worn down cutting disk (before the disk shattered!). But I haven't worn down enough to weaken it much. Hopefully the chap in the workshop can get some proper heat on it as my butane torch barely warms the thing. The clip is so rusted you can't tell where it stops and the bearing and hub start!

[Tom Fenton 1,562]

What I've had to do before is drill a small hole aiming for the back of the circlip, and then get a lever behind it to lever it out. Also try bunging it in a bucket of diesel for a few days, its good at seeking through rusty sh1t.

[davemar 16]

I started drilling, but my bits are all as blunt as a sponge.

[davemar 16]

In the end, the chaps in our workshop heated the hub until it was red and managed to force the circlip out somehow. The heat also made the removal of the bearing easier. It's all back together now and back on the car, and no sign of any vibration or noise which is nice.