damo 17 2 Cars Posted May 14, 2009 for some reason my fan doesnt kick in any more? temp shows on the dash so I guess its something else. i also notice the rad light appearing on the dash sometimes if this has anything to do with it. anyone help as i assumne its a sensor and i can find one on the rad in the nearside corner, blue in coluor so is this it? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RobBBoi 0 Posted May 14, 2009 If you have an after-market air filter behind the headlight they can wobble about and knock something out of the top of the rad/fans. Just plug it back in and it should be ok. Happened to me, hopefully yours is as easy to fix Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
richard 0 Posted May 14, 2009 you can test the fan by bridging the brown plug near the battery. i think...looking at it the pins are 1 3 5, 1 3 equals low speed, 3 5 equals full speed. Beware that if yours has failed, it could lead to premature head gasket failure. (happened to me). Also check the shunt box near the battery (black box thing with power cable from battery goes into it, there are a number of fuses in there too) My loom around that area was knackered so ordered one from peugeot, had to come from france....cost a lot and took over 3 weeks to arrive. Its worked fine for the past 3 to 4 years Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
manrajf 0 Posted May 14, 2009 for some reason my fan doesnt kick in any more? temp shows on the dash so I guess its something else. i also notice the rad light appearing on the dash sometimes if this has anything to do with it. anyone help as i assumne its a sensor and i can find one on the rad in the nearside corner, blue in coluor so is this it? I had this problem with my car, i just bought a new sensor (the blue one) from gsf and that fixed the problem manraj Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tom Fenton 1,526 Posted May 15, 2009 The sensors do seem to fail regularly, they are not very good it seems! If you phone up a motor factors they will give you a huge list of possibles, you want the one with the red ring. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Alan_M 66 1 Cars Posted May 15, 2009 There are only a few things that can go wrong with these, temp switch, resistor or the fan itself. I checked mine the other day to find it had seized. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DrSarty 90 1 Cars Posted May 15, 2009 (edited) You told me in Germany Damo that you'd tested/hot-wired the fan & it worked; so at least it's not that. This means the wiring is ok too. A rad switch/thermo sensor - the one which simply screws into the rad and is about 26mm diameter - will cost about £20-25. You are right that there are several types. You'd be best taking yours out and to the Pug dealer or motorfactors as their temp range/rating is stamped on the side. This will leave a bloody great hole in your rad so is an opportunity to refresh your coolant. I'm a bit confused at which dash light you're referring to. One could be coolant level (fixed by a simple top up) and the other is the red warning light at the top of the coolant temp dial. These a both separate circuits, and the high temp warning light & temp gauge are also fed off of separate circuits, and the sensors IIRC screw into/near the thermostat housing and have spade terminals on them. You can test which one is which by taking the wire off of the spade terminal and touching each one to earth. You will either get the temp guage needle shoot up to the top or the high temp light come on. This way you'll be able to fault find everything in the coolant circuit/system. Good luck fellow EuroTripper. Edited May 15, 2009 by DrSarty Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
welshpug 1,627 Posted May 15, 2009 don't forget to check the arrangement of pins on your thermoswitch plug, early ones are in a |_| shape, later are - - - with a different plug. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tom Fenton 1,526 Posted May 15, 2009 A rad switch/thermo sensor - the one which simply screws into the rad and is about 26mm diameter - will cost about £20-25. You are right that there are several types. You'd be best taking yours out and to the Pug dealer or motorfactors as their temp range/rating is stamped on the side. As above, if it is the later type connection (1990 onwards) you need the one with the red ring on it. I bought one this week for £12. I wouldn't go to the main dealer, they will be horrendously expensive. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rob_the_Sparky 9 Posted May 18, 2009 Beware that if yours has failed, it could lead to premature head gasket failure. (happened to me). Also check the shunt box near the battery (black box thing with power cable from battery goes into it, there are a number of fuses in there too) It can lead to very rapid head gasket failure so do be careful and drive as little as possible with it in this state. I've lost two head gaskets to this problem (and one engine after a head bolt snapped getting the head off). Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
damo 17 2 Cars Posted May 27, 2009 thx for the pointers, sods law i dont have the correct spanner!! 26 too small and I guess its a 27. anyway any ideas on the part number? its blue and the connectors are the _ _ _ type Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
damien 22 1 Cars Posted May 28, 2009 You told me in Germany Damo that you'd tested/hot-wired the fan & it worked; so at least it's not that. This means the wiring is ok too. A rad switch/thermo sensor - the one which simply screws into the rad and is about 26mm diameter - will cost about £20-25. You are right that there are several types. You'd be best taking yours out and to the Pug dealer or motorfactors as their temp range/rating is stamped on the side. This will leave a bloody great hole in your rad so is an opportunity to refresh your coolant. I'm a bit confused at which dash light you're referring to. One could be coolant level (fixed by a simple top up) and the other is the red warning light at the top of the coolant temp dial. These a both separate circuits, and the high temp warning light & temp gauge are also fed off of separate circuits, and the sensors IIRC screw into/near the thermostat housing and have spade terminals on them. You can test which one is which by taking the wire off of the spade terminal and touching each one to earth. You will either get the temp guage needle shoot up to the top or the high temp light come on. This way you'll be able to fault find everything in the coolant circuit/system. Good luck fellow EuroTripper. think you got the wrong damien as most people said it is most likely the thermo sensor whitch is blue and plugs in the rad, if your looking down at the rad its below the top water hose. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DrSarty 90 1 Cars Posted May 28, 2009 think you got the wrong damien as most people said it is most likely the thermo sensor whitch is blue and plugs in the rad, if your looking down at the rad its below the top water hose. Yeah; what a div!! But haven't you got exactly the same problem? I may have been p1ssed. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
damo 17 2 Cars Posted May 28, 2009 did the wire trick etc so the fans are working. any ideas on the size to get it out? 27 I assume? also on the part, I have 4 to pick, what temp range do i need - 92-97 83-88 95-100 87-92 I would assume the lower one is best but the red ring one is the 92-97, seems high? Damo. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
welshpug 1,627 Posted May 28, 2009 check that the plug arrangement matches as mentioned, 92-97 is the standard switching temperature, the higher one is for the diesel IIRC. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
damo 17 2 Cars Posted June 1, 2009 thx for the help. all sorted now, fans working again Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
