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Chris_Mi

[misc_work] Rear Beam Refurb And Swap

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Chris_Mi

Hi all,

 

I'm guessing that this is probably a recurring post, and pretty boring to the mechanically advanced masses.

But for me, this is my first attempt at 'proper' mechanics, and I must admit, I'm pretty chuffed with myself :huh: , so I'm posting because I am proud at my efforts (but I certainly won't mention :D my embarrassment at taking Friday night, Saturday (all day) and half a day Sunday to undetake a task that the main guide on the forum homepage makes out should only take 30 mins!)

 

So, here we go:

 

Take one minty Pug

 

post-11764-1237929192.jpg

 

Source a sweetly reconditioned 309 Gti beam off Anthony (cheers fella B) )

 

post-11764-1237929225.jpg

 

and add fresh 1.9 calipers and new disks

 

post-11764-1237929246_thumb.jpg

 

Get serious with some Hammerite and paint up those torsion bars and beam

 

post-11764-1237929264.jpg

 

Add Group A BBM nylon bushes (thanks for all the advice for removing the old ones). My greatest technique for removal is:

1) to take a hacksaw blade and chop of the outer rubber, so that the circular ferrule is exposed on the outer face.

2) Get some decent mole grips on the exposed piece of ferrule

3) Twist like buggery until the ferrule bonding comes away from the rubber within the bush

4) Pull out ferrule

5) Repeat on adjacent front bush, so that you can get a hacksaw blade through the centre of both bushes

6) Carefully, using the hacksaw blade placed through the middle of both bushes, cut through the outer metal, being careful not to cut into the beam

7) Once a slit has been cut through, take an old screwdriver and bend back the outer lip on each bush

8) Using the screwdriver, start to hammer the bent back lip into the bush, so that the metal bush is folding in on itself.

9) Where you can get purchase, use the screw driver to hammer out the bush (with the previously cut slit, it comes out easily)

10) Using a rubber hammer, whack in the fresh new Group A bushes

Done ;)

 

post-11764-1237929325_thumb.jpg

 

Add Group A BBM solid aluminium rear mounts

 

post-11764-1237929308_thumb.jpg

 

Add some 306 K6 rear dampers

 

post-11764-1237929363_thumb.jpg

 

post-11764-1237929399.jpg

 

and voila!

 

Ready to fit!

Edited by Chris_Mi

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Chris_Mi

Best to get the car on the axle stands, being careful where you place the stands on the sill. With the stands being about 30 years old, I decided it would also be sensible to place some ramps just beneath the sill, just in case the axle stands collapsed. As it was they were fine, but I'm still getting the 'ol man some new ones for his b'day!

 

post-11764-1237930844.jpg

 

After removing the back box (fortunately olive type joint, and not a sleeved join) and looking under the car, there were some very slight surface rust patches. I decided that I would treat these later whilst swapping the beam

 

post-11764-1237930946.jpg

 

I removed the copper break lines from the drums, and undid them from the rubber lines that hung over the beam. Blue paper was a poor attempt to stem the inevitable flow of sickly sweet and paint killing fluid

 

post-11764-1237931109.jpg

 

At this point, I noticed the bracket that everyone kept talking about. No problems I thought!

 

post-11764-1237931191.jpg

 

What I didn't realise was that the top of the bolt through the P clamp was welded to the top of the P clamp. What I didn't know was that the P clamp was part of a strap which ran to in front of the petrol tank (i.e. long), where it was bolted to the car. Now, I suspect most peeps could just undo the bolt through the p clamp allowing the beam clamp to be release, but because of the welding, I could only remove the nut from the bolt. As the P clamp is stiff metal, there was no way I could prise it back to release the beam clamp.

 

So I tried to remove the clamp from the beam instead. Should be a simple job, as it is just two pieces around the beam, bolted together at the top and bottom. But guess what? The top of the bolt sheared, leaving no head. To make matters worse, the nut was welded to the clamp.

 

Therefore I had no option but to remove the P clamp and strap in situ with the beam, being very careful to balance the beam on the jack, whilst not catching and disturbing the centre exhaust section. Needless to say, there were no pictures at this point. I can tell you though, I swore like Ramsey in a McD's kitchen!

 

Old beam removed:

 

post-11764-1237931809.jpg

 

post-11764-1237931911.jpg

 

Note the crappy attempt at pacifying the 'ol man by placing green bin bags to stop break fluid staining his drive :D

 

post-11764-1237931953.jpg

 

More to follow.....

Edited by Chris_Mi

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djinuk

well done that man, this was one of the things i did on my pug, and i found it good fun actually.

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Chris_Mi

Well perhaps not best post, as I forgot to take pictures of balancing the freshly refurbed beam on the jack and carefully trying to get it in place without disturbing the exhaust. Must admit, I didn't have too many spare hands tho!

 

On a more serious note, the beam was a pain, and because I had put the calipers and disks on prior to fitting, it was attempting to rotate on the jack with the trailing arms pointing down to the floor. Lining up the front 4 mounting bolts and the 2 rear bolts with the holes in the chassis was almost impossible. So I cleverly decided to get under the car and rotate the beam, and allign it using a mixture of careful beam balancing on the jack, and my extra ordinary strength. Somehow I managed to get one side to line up, but the other wasn't. I estimate that the beam weighed about 60-80 kgs fully laden, and after about 15 minutes of pissing around, I was well knackered. It didn't help when I finally got the mounting bolts lined up and the 'ol man was rolling around pi$$ing himself refusing to put the nuts on in the car boot as I struggled with a significant weight of the beam!

 

Eventually he co-operated, and did the nuts up in the boot, but I can tell you sincerely, that was the best chest workout I've done. My pecs are still hurting now B)

 

Beam attached (and aching arms & chest!)

 

post-11764-1237932914.jpg

 

post-11764-1237932939.jpg

 

I decided also to put the beam clamp and strap back on. I don't know why because it seems to fit no purpose, but as I spent so long messing getting it off, I thought I might aswell stick it back on (stupid, I know). Reversal was a lot easier than removal

 

post-11764-1237933068.jpg

 

I needed to fit new copper break lines, so got some made up from a local garage (£10 for 2). quite pricey I guess, but it did take him 15 minutes, and looking at the price for copper to make a new set by myself was £7. If I consider the cost of buying the crimping tool, and the banjo fittings ontop, I guess it was not too bad?

 

New break lines fitted:

 

post-11764-1237933230.jpg

 

post-11764-1237933245.jpg

 

New handbrake cable also bought and fitted. Note longer cable is to be used for offside (petrol tank side) caliper.

 

post-11764-1237933326.jpg

 

and view of the new shiny disks now gracing the back, where once drums were fitted

 

post-11764-1237933389.jpg

 

Final touch up of surface rust with durable Hammerite

 

post-11764-1237933448.jpg

 

post-11764-1237933465.jpg

 

One final point. I noticed that the top of the beam tube was slightly catching the inner sill. I guess I put this down to the extra width of the 309 Gti beam, and the occurrance of knobbles on the top of my beam (apparently they are not on all beams). I'm hoping this is not a problem, as the beam sits pretty well with the same distance between the tyre and the arch on each side, and the difference in measurement from centre rear hub to centre front hub on both sides is only 1/16", so I guess that is well within tolerance.

 

Rubbing inner sill

 

post-11764-1237933678.jpg

 

post-11764-1237933700.jpg

 

post-11764-1237933729_thumb.jpg

 

after all that I forgot to take any pictures of the arse end once back down on the tyres (t'was mother's day after all!). She looks pretty sweet though; the ride height is just perfect, and the slight extra width just adds a bit more 'beef' to the look of the rear. I think it really compliments the car and I'll add some more pictures when I have the chance.....:D:huh:;)

Edited by Chris_Mi

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Chris_Mi
well done that man, this was one of the things i did on my pug, and i found it good fun actually.

 

Cheers mate,

 

I know for most it is probably pretty easy, but this was my first go. A bit like doing a half marathon: tiring and a bit frustrating, but when you finished, you sort of feel elated and a bit giddy, and proud that you actually did it! :D

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Anthony

Glad you got it all fitted OK Chris and that you're happy with it - looks like you did a sterling job on the cosmetics too :D

 

I'll reply to your email in a moment, but one thing I have noticed is that I forgot to pop the little plastic torx bungs back into the ends of the ARB plates - won't do any harm for now, but PM me your address and I'll pop a couple in the post to you :huh:

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Baz

Good work!! :D Isn't the easiest of jobs wriggling around on the floor!

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marksorrento205

Good effort fella!!

 

I had the joys of doing my first one on a ramp at the weekend. The joys of a RAF motorclub. How much easier!! But its back to the floor from now on :rolleyes:

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Craigo

good effort that man, and very well written!

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Atari Boy

Good work, I have done this and it is not as easy and as quick as you think it will be.

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Tom Fenton

The trick I use for fitting these, is to use two jacks. One big one takes the weight of the beam tube in the centre, the other smaller one goes under the trailing arm to rotate it to the right angle. Then it can be jacked up into position.

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felix2566

Well done with the swap, can be a pain to do! Bet you now feel that it was well worth the effort!

Tom, that is what I do, use a samll scissor jack to push the arm up.

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Chris_Mi
Well done with the swap, can be a pain to do! Bet you now feel that it was well worth the effort!

Tom, that is what I do, use a samll scissor jack to push the arm up.

 

:lol: Unfortunately I didn't have a second jack. Brute force had to suffice! Hopefully there won't be a next time, but if there is, I'll kindly remember that tip! Cheers

 

It was definately worth the effort, she feels pretty well planted round those twisties ;)

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platty

I employed the help of the girlfriend when I swapped beams. I'm amazed she's still with me as alot of swearing is needed to fit these beams!

 

Good stuff tho, just dont get any wider wheels ;):lol:

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Chris_Mi
I employed the help of the girlfriend when I swapped beams. I'm amazed she's still with me as alot of swearing is needed to fit these beams!

 

Good stuff tho, just dont get any wider wheels ;):lol:

 

Good effort with the missus :D I got mine to help carry the beam once it was off, as I was knackered!

 

Looking at it from the back, the track is nowhere near as wide as some that I have seen on here. Is that because I've got 1.6 (185 tyres) or has Anthony sorted me a 1.9 beam! :ph34r::lol::lol:

 

Glad it is not as wide at the back as one post I just looked at (post about red rear strip - white Gti), it looked like the tyres were out each side by about 3-4 inches!!!!!

 

I'll post some piccies when the weather is better so y'all can take a look :lol:

Edited by Chris_Mi

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CosKev

Good write up and pics ;)

 

I used our recycling boxes when I put mine on :lol:

Bench pressed the beam up,slid a recycling box under each end with my feet :lol:

 

Rubbing inner sill

post-11764-1237933678.jpg

 

post-11764-1237933700.jpg

 

post-11764-1237933729_thumb.jpg

 

Surely this will need some modding???? :lol:

 

Either by cutting the pieces off the arms,or reshaping the cars inner sill. :ph34r:

 

Its allready knocked your protective underseal off,surely when the suspension goes up and down this contact on the inner sill will give you noises in car?????? :lol:

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platty
looked like the tyres were out each side by about 3-4 inches!!!!!

 

Just under 2 inches :ph34r:

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Anthony
Looking at it from the back, the track is nowhere near as wide as some that I have seen on here. Is that because I've got 1.6 (185 tyres) or has Anthony sorted me a 1.9 beam! :):):D

Cheeky ;)

 

It's going to be nowhere near as wide looking as Platty's for three reasons - firstly, you're running 185 width tyres compared to his 195's, secondly you're running 5.5" wide wheels compared to his 6.75", and thirdly, his car didn't have the plastic arches fitted in those pictures from memory.

 

Surely this will need some modding???? B)

Yeah it does and Chris is aware - it's an issue that I've heard of but never personally experienced, and I'm guessing is down to that some arm castings have those lugs on whereas others don't (or have smaller lugs) and hence don't have the problem. Simply grinding the lugs off/down should fix the problem judging by the pictures and what I've heard of others that have come across this issue have done.

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pug_ham

I've had those lugs on a couple of beams but they only catch when you fit a 309 beam to a 205 & even then not everytime.

 

I think it was Wurzel that mentioned it to me first, I just cut them off with w hacksaw fush with the raidus arm body & its fine.

 

Beam need to be off the car for that though iirc. :)

 

Graham.

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SurGie

nice idea, are these lugs things on ZX arms as well as 309 ones as iv got my beam with zx arms ?

Edited by SurGie

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supersub14

well done lad! ill be attempting this job over the summer when i get a chance.

 

You've made it sound very easy, and ill definately be re-reading this guide before start :)

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Chris_Mi
Surely this will need some modding???? :huh:

 

Either by cutting the pieces off the arms,or reshaping the cars inner sill. :)

 

Its allready knocked your protective underseal off,surely when the suspension goes up and down this contact on the inner sill will give you noises in car?????? :D

 

Yes, it will need sorting at some point, although there is not any noises from the rubbing.

Soon I'll take Graham and Anthony's advice and saw/grind the lugs off, though the thought of removing the beam is too much to contemplate at the moment. Perhaps a job for summer. I'll tidy up the underseal, and make sure that there will be no corrosion :D

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