Jump to content

205GTIDrivers.com has just received a major redesign and the update is still in progress, so please bear with us. You may want to clear your browser's cache and cookies for this site. Sorry for the inconvenience.
Also, we invite you to post feedback in this topic: http://www.205gtidrivers.com/topic/171489-new-website-feeback/ 

  • Welcome to 205GTIDrivers.com!

    Hello dear visitor! Feel free to browse but we invite you to register completely free of charge in order to enjoy the full functionality of the website.


Prism7guy's 306 Gti6 track car.

Recommended Posts


I thought I'd do a copy of my track car project thread on here seeing as there are other 306 projects and some may find it interesting. I've noticed a few familiar usernames from the gti6 forum on here too.

Anyway, to cut a long story short I started doing trackdays in my diablo red 306 gti6 years ago and got the bug, but the car at the time was my daily and far too nice to turn into a track car, so after a bit of saving up and picking up bargain parts I found a local-ish gti6 with engine problems. It was a pretty good price for the car at the time and if I hadn't bought it it would have been destined to being broken for spares.

Here it is when I got it home.

35639927240_6ba66aac63_c.jpgIMG_0322 by Steve Count, on Flickr


Not my cup of tea but it was affordable and just what I wanted as a base to start a project.

It wasn't long before I had stripped and sold pretty much everything I could that would be of no use to me, the car then effectively owed me nothing.

It soon looked like this:

35942550560_1de669b6ca_c.jpgIMG_0523 by Steve Count, on Flickr

37708968124_14239a045d_c.jpgIMG_0498 by Steve Count, on Flickr


I took the engine in to work and stripped it down, I bought the car knowing the head gasket had gone but upon looking at the stripped engine I decided that rebuilding that engine wouldn't have been cost effective, the block needed boring out, the head was as good as scrap and everything else had seen better days.

35530653983_b9b437904e_c.jpgIMG_0668 by Steve Count, on Flickr


In the end I bought a second hand engine from someone in Southampton for £300.

With the old engine out I tackled the engine bay rust and gave it a fresh coat of paint.

36202723441_2de685db23_c.jpgIMG_0708 by Steve Count, on Flickr

35503459704_41400d51c2_c.jpgIMG_0839 by Steve Count, on Flickr

35530648073_1635bd4e3e_c.jpgIMG_0846 by Steve Count, on Flickr

35503456434_7734214394_c.jpgIMG_0853 by Steve Count, on Flickr

I also treated the wheel areas to some stone chip.

35503459054_fe4ba5cfc1_c.jpgIMG_0840 by Steve Count, on Flickr


With the front end sorted I could then start to fit the new bits to it, one of the first things to get replaced was the front dampers, I fitted some KW V2's that I'd purchased in preparation for getting a track car.

38392063502_09f214501c_c.jpgIMG_0369 by Steve Count, on Flickr


Wiring for moving the battery to under the boot floor, and brake line for fresh lines all round and removing the ABS.

35530647353_b523a920a5_c.jpgIMG_0847 by Steve Count, on Flickr


Roller bearing wishbone bushes.

35503457164_24c7586bbb_c.jpgIMG_0848 by Steve Count, on Flickr


Smaller/lighter alternator.

36339053825_c2201ce394_c.jpgIMG_0837 by Steve Count, on Flickr


Had some brackets laser cut to hold the power steering pump and allow for manual tensioning of the aux belt.

36202721541_cea1117916_c.jpgIMG_0884 by Steve Count, on Flickr

35530643553_86df742575_c.jpgIMG_0885 by Steve Count, on Flickr


Fitted a billet flywheel to the replacement engine.

35503450554_5707543fb6_c.jpgIMG_0935 by Steve Count, on Flickr

35530640573_1c43c0667d_c.jpgIMG_0929 by Steve Count, on Flickr

Engine and gearbox back in.

35503449764_bf10966465_c.jpgIMG_0937 by Steve Count, on Flickr


Decided to paint the block fluorescent orange in a moment of madness.

35530638843_6551332c2b_c.jpgIMG_0943 by Steve Count, on Flickr


Fitted a lower strut brace to go with the seam welded subframe.

35530648633_53bf1ed3cd_c.jpgIMG_0842 by Steve Count, on Flickr


Front end starting to come together now.

35503448464_193ab3e508_c.jpgIMG_0960 by Steve Count, on Flickr


More new parts arrived.

36339053455_c5a279fa2c_c.jpgIMG_0850 by Steve Count, on Flickr

24552589568_09e098e478_c.jpgIMG_0818 by Steve Count, on Flickr

38392233702_a6af158db2_c.jpgIMG_0869 by Steve Count, on Flickr

I'd had problems with overheating brakes in the past so I decided to fit some ducting directing cold air from the foglight holes in the bumper to the back face of the discs.

35530638433_a8e2c04f92_c.jpgIMG_0965 by Steve Count, on Flickr

35503447334_f3b22206a0_c.jpgIMG_0967 by Steve Count, on Flickr


36170577542_6eb293e4a7_c.jpgIMG_0968 by Steve Count, on Flickr

36202719241_b6af46384a_c.jpgIMG_0970 by Steve Count, on Flickr

New nissens radiator and two 13 row oil coolers fitted.

36294918226_47eb04c708_c.jpgIMG_0985 by Steve Count, on Flickr

36294917176_33f81d032e_c.jpgIMG_0993 by Steve Count, on Flickr

The new battery mounted under the boot floor.

36202718501_f0f1f48b03_c.jpgIMG_0988 by Steve Count, on Flickr


After a mis-hap on a test drive involving losing a lot of petrol I decided to fit a fire extinguisher. Also visible is the bias valve and braided lines which are short lengths just to get under the car where they mate with the copper-nickel lines running to the rear brakes.

38423557111_43de866513_c.jpgIMG_1004 by Steve Count, on Flickr


I think around this time I took the car to the nurburgring, and in classic Peugeot style it broke down, several times.

38423674981_89b1912d28_b.jpg254446_10150275412767154_6080765_n by Steve Count, on Flickr


First time the clutch cable auto adjuster gave up the ghost whilst stuck in Belgian motorway traffic. Face palm moment! I had a spare though so got that fitted in record time but ended up soaking from laying on the wet road.

Next problem:

24552733678_104e76e768_b.jpg247911_10150275425287154_6536589_n by Steve Count, on Flickr


Fortunately it was a relatively easy fix, the crank position sensor had gone, but finding one of them on a German bank holiday weekend and the ferry booked for early the next morning added a bit of stress. Fortunately a mate in Luxembourg had one on his brothers car that I could borrow to get me home with, so a late night trek over to his to get the sensor, then the drive back to the campsite to fit the sensor. I think it was about 2am by the time I'd fitted the replacement, started the car and it ran so I got a couple of hours sleep before the drive home.

Just to prove it did get a lap in whilst over there:

24552787918_c7384b1fe6_b.jpg248290_10150223868952472_7012345_n by Steve Count, on Flickr


Once back it was time to progress a bit more. I got Phillipm/Rippthrough to make a cage for me. My order started out as a simple 6 point cage but he could sell sand to an arab and before I knew it I'd agreed to all sorts of extras. A few weeks later I got the car back.

36170571782_a187d74953_c.jpgIMG_1551 by Steve Count, on Flickr

36170570342_d11e32a27b_c.jpgIMG_1554 by Steve Count, on Flickr

All painted with a copious amount of rattle cans!

36170567732_195190c151_c.jpgIMG_1594 by Steve Count, on Flickr

35530433753_e3714bd96f_c.jpgIMG_1626 by Steve Count, on Flickr

36202708081_41f5f1bb1c_c.jpgIMG_1627 by Steve Count, on Flickr

I decided to save some more weight by removing the heater, so looped the coolant hoses on the back of the thermostat housing.

37728863314_d9f518e2c9_c.jpgIMG_1603 by Steve Count, on Flickr


I ditched the bonnet release mechanism as the cage now lived where the cable lever would be, plus I got a good deal on some Aerocatches.

36170566302_93bc9dc695_c.jpgIMG_1610 by Steve Count, on Flickr


36294903376_33e8f72a29_c.jpgIMG_1615 by Steve Count, on Flickr


35503439974_5f338e3f38_c.jpgIMG_1631 by Steve Count, on Flickr


I also fitted aerocatches to the boot as there was no other way of securing it after ditching the central locking. (Weight saving once again)

35503438684_d0de35a8e3_c.jpgIMG_1642 by Steve Count, on Flickr


36170559702_22bbc6763a_c.jpgIMG_1643 by Steve Count, on Flickr


I fitted all new BakerBM engine mounts and Miles gear linkages.

35530625353_3f227dd98f_c.jpgIMG_1646 by Steve Count, on Flickr


I got some Lexan sheet and made some new side windows, used the glass items as a template then went round with a jigsaw before smoothing off the edges on a linisher.

35530625103_99cfab4371_c.jpgIMG_1649 by Steve Count, on Flickr


35530432733_f7463d2cd8_c.jpgIMG_1673 by Steve Count, on Flickr


Came across a cheap Pipercross Viper filter so snapped it up and fitted that.

35530624003_d4e62102ec_c.jpgIMG_1738 by Steve Count, on Flickr


I got some corrugated plastic and made an undertray to sit under the boot floor, the aim was to reduce the air dam effect in the big void between the fuel tank and rear bumper, and to provide a bit of protection for the battery.

36294892726_4bf7da34ce_c.jpgIMG_1684 by Steve Count, on Flickr


35942522420_087e710a62_c.jpgIMG_1698 by Steve Count, on Flickr


I also made a new centre dash panel with an oil pressure gauge, and several switches for various things since getting rid of all the original switches etc.

35530624793_00ec87be83_c.jpgIMG_1662 by Steve Count, on Flickr


I fitted some seat bars, bucket seats and harnesses.

36170572412_2cb1cfd4b2_c.jpgIMG_1535 by Steve Count, on Flickr


Morris guarding one for me :lol:

36339051145_675a920dab_c.jpgIMG_1561 by Steve Count, on Flickr


36170561952_817772910d_c.jpgIMG_1630 by Steve Count, on Flickr


35503439554_6018b1a44c_c.jpgIMG_1636 by Steve Count, on Flickr


I fitted some borders to the rear windows in an effort to make them slightly more o.e.

38469268401_9dfeef3bc7_c.jpgIMG_1768 by Steve Count, on Flickr

And a new heated front screen to combat the removal of the heaters.

38469269241_e346193458_c.jpgIMG_1769 by Steve Count, on Flickr

Edited by Prism7guy

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

One of the front wheel bearings was on its way out so I got two replacements, stripped down the hubs, new bearings fitted and painted everything back up.

36294891546_8a750d630b_c.jpgIMG_1737 by Steve Count, on Flickr

36294889506_0d6740c931_c.jpgIMG_1751 by Steve Count, on Flickr

35942520410_daa34db436_c.jpgIMG_1760 by Steve Count, on Flickr

Time for another trip to the 'ring.

36339046625_cfd4b76709_c.jpgIMG_1817 by Steve Count, on Flickr

Then a trackday at Anglesey killed my brake pads which took the discs with them.

37582593025_c1e17f4c18_c.jpgIMG_1985 by Steve Count, on Flickr

38413828656_5e4e011566_c.jpgIMG_1986 by Steve Count, on Flickr

Luckily a mate had some spare pads which he lent me to get me home. Rather than throw more money at pads for standard calipers i decided to stop messing about and got lucky on ebay one evening. (AP Racing CP5200).


37755114734_9dcfaa3a93_c.jpgIMG_1501 by Steve Count, on Flickr

Before sorting the brakes I decided to treat the rear beam to an upgrade. 21mm torsion bars, 30mm anti roll bar, new febi trailing arm shafts, all new bearings and seals. I'd already welded up the standard beam mounts making them solid.

35530622773_2035098a4c_c.jpgIMG_2042 by Steve Count, on Flickr

35503428884_5b4cfd5e08_c.jpgIMG_2056 by Steve Count, on Flickr

38392243882_311f1b1d43_c.jpgIMG_0919 by Steve Count, on Flickr

24552617338_2c0124f206_c.jpgIMG_0918 by Steve Count, on Flickr

35530621933_42371d4929_c.jpgIMG_2081 by Steve Count, on Flickr

Back to the brakes, I was adamant I could squeeze 310mm rotors behind my 15" pro race 1.2's, and after a lot of measuring and drawing etc I ordered a pair of rotors, then knocked up a plate to use for seeing how far back I could offset the rotors meaning smaller spacers would be needed for the wheels to clear the callipers.

35530621323_7f78d5f4d4_c.jpgIMG_2091 by Steve Count, on Flickr

35942516880_ffc150d6cf_c.jpgIMG_2098 by Steve Count, on Flickr

The balljoints were the limiting factor, even with the smaller swept area rotors that I opted for.

35530620663_625ffecfa3_c.jpgIMG_2100 by Steve Count, on Flickr

35942517220_4a1b09be41_c.jpgIMG_2093 by Steve Count, on Flickr

Once I was happy with dimensions for bells and brackets I ordered in some aluminium and got cracking in my spare time at work.

35530619523_bbe1d7fd15_c.jpgIMG_2157 by Steve Count, on Flickr

35530619013_1879d11a7e_c.jpgIMG_2160 by Steve Count, on Flickr

35530618413_6141032041_c.jpgIMG_2163 by Steve Count, on Flickr

36339227655_74e26dc4b9_c.jpgIMG_2176 by Steve Count, on Flickr

36339228675_3a5581e773_c.jpgIMG_2168 by Steve Count, on Flickr

36339227925_de5cc38760_c.jpgIMG_2175 by Steve Count, on Flickr

I cleaned up the calipers and powder coated them, then got all new seals and pistons. I decided whilst i was at it to fit some bridgecraft adjustable top mounts and made mk2 adjustable drop links. Tried getting as many parts as i could stripped that were aluminium to send them off to be anodised.

36202693731_b833556c34_c.jpgIMG_2184 by Steve Count, on Flickr

37582884535_2809e32d11_c.jpgIMG_2200 by Steve Count, on Flickr

35503418474_0a543d33cd_c.jpgIMG_2223 by Steve Count, on Flickr

37755296384_ce997377df_c.jpgIMG_2196 by Steve Count, on Flickr

37582892675_79bbf0ef7e_c.jpgIMG_2219 by Steve Count, on Flickr

38438370972_7787899125_c.jpgIMG_2228 by Steve Count, on Flickr

38438372852_e3434f293f_c.jpgIMG_2231 by Steve Count, on Flickr

38438373302_b53b1b3d01_c.jpgIMG_2233 by Steve Count, on Flickr

Tight fit but around 1mm of clearance at the tightest spots. Not had any issues due to thermal expansion to date, but I have to be careful with wheel weights catching when having the wheels balanced. I also had to fettle the balljoints slightly just to be sure they wouldnt catch the inside of the rotors.

Next up another trip to the 'ring, but before I could go on track I had to change a couple of things due to the rules changing. Wrap around bucket seats are apparently no longer allowed, and roll cages must be padded anywhere that you can touch them when strapped in. So in go the new seats and padding.

38414283406_8c30658231_c.jpgIMG_2330 by Steve Count, on Flickr

37755408464_36165a4252_c.jpgIMG_2333 by Steve Count, on Flickr

Whilst over there I had a bit of an incident having to cut a corner riding over a high kerb to avoid hitting a BMW which I caught a bit fasnt and thought was hanging right for me to overtake only to turn in on me last minute. It was a choice of hitting the kerb or hitting him, I chose the kerb at the expense of the exhaust. (8:05 if you want to skip to said moment).

38438541642_595df7609b_c.jpgIMG_2492 by Steve Count, on Flickr

26694435109_a6edb0975c_c.jpgIMG_2496 by Steve Count, on Flickr

36202685771_02e5a6a50f_c.jpgIMG_2613 by Steve Count, on Flickr

Not the best welding in the world, but its held itself together so far. I drove home from the 'ring with the exhaust in two halves, frustratingly loud and hot inside the car, and it happened to be a heatwave that weekend too adding to the heat problems.

Next up i acquired a phase 1 Xsara VTS steering rack, the nice 2.4 turn lock to lock type. I just swapped the original gti6 ram over to keep the correct amount of travel meaning the tyre wouldn't hit the gearbox at full lock.

24598643818_3561e117b4_c.jpgIMG_2827 by Steve Count, on Flickr

The next project on the car was to make some adjustable tubular wishbones, allowing me to fine tune the camber and caster, after a few hours measuring and designing I bought some CDS steel tube and got busy after hours at work.

35503412944_97fecc76bb_c.jpgIMG_2800 by Steve Count, on Flickr

36339215685_1551bc30a6_c.jpgIMG_2874 by Steve Count, on Flickr

36339213715_5313865db4_c.jpgIMG_2939 by Steve Count, on Flickr

36339212755_40240353e8_c.jpgIMG_2945 by Steve Count, on Flickr

36339212225_8c3301c01b_c.jpgIMG_2992 by Steve Count, on Flickr

Steering with a quick rack, no power steering and all that caster was hard work to say the least, especially on R888's.

Next up was to fit a new clutch, gearbox, cambelt kit and an electric power steering pump. The PAS pump sits infront of the gearbox on the cross member.

26694706679_c843f8598c_c.jpgIMG_3294 by Steve Count, on Flickr

38470451961_aa55268c2c_c.jpgIMG_2974 by Steve Count, on Flickr

37583331045_7820ee23d9_c.jpgIMG_2976 by Steve Count, on Flickr

38414701726_91e4a8d828_c.jpgIMG_3442 by Steve Count, on Flickr

A day out to Cadwell park with a few mates, I hadn't realised that one of the rear anti roll bar end plate bolts had come out meaning I was basically running without a rear arb all day. I thought the handling was a bit funky but put it down to the new wishbones changing so much geometry, all that extra body roll managed to kill my front tyres even with 3 degrees of negative camber.

26694770619_a6a8308efc_c.jpgIMG_3474 by Steve Count, on Flickr

The next stage in the project was to get a bit more power, having looked at the options I was torn between cams and ITB's, or supercharging. I've never been a fan of any turbo car that was out the window. I had a cut down inlet manifold and a set of bike bodies sat in a box, and some lairy cat cams to go with them, but in the end decided to go down the supercharged route having had a passenger ride up the hill in Allan's 205. Not one to do things easily I decided to have a go at fitting an Eaton M62 rather than a Rotrex. I'll let the pictures do the talking. I bought myself a nice little AC/DC tig welder in preparation as i knew there would be a lot of fabrication needed and i'm not usually one to get work done elsewhere.

24614713098_79000007b3_c.jpgIMG_3659 by Steve Count, on Flickr

38454810352_3a639cc0df_c.jpgIMG_3663 by Steve Count, on Flickr

38454815472_44e75a463e_c.jpgIMG_3667 by Steve Count, on Flickr

36339209715_668ed152e6_c.jpgIMG_3668 by Steve Count, on Flickr

35942503930_c3f98d17b7_c.jpgIMG_3669 by Steve Count, on Flickr

35530430023_4c6334a907_c.jpgIMG_4027 by Steve Count, on Flickr

35942497250_bf09690aa9_c.jpgIMG_4077 by Steve Count, on Flickr

35530599333_f18a5866f9_c.jpgIMG_4078 by Steve Count, on Flickr

35942502800_559df583c3_c.jpgIMG_3715 by Steve Count, on Flickr

35942501830_d50f4f1d6f_c.jpgIMG_3718 by Steve Count, on Flickr

36339204605_459be56885_c.jpgIMG_4024 by Steve Count, on Flickr

35942495350_044b0e3c5f_c.jpgIMG_4082 by Steve Count, on Flickr



35530598863_c149f2317a_c.jpgIMG_4080 by Steve Count, on Flickr


36339040495_6d4bed46bc_c.jpgIMG_4266 by Steve Count, on Flickr

35530594643_e21bc29f4a_c.jpgIMG_4265 by Steve Count, on Flickr

36294853486_d9e5a35bef_c.jpgIMG_4269 by Steve Count, on Flickr

36294851456_c23564f08e_c.jpgIMG_4275 by Steve Count, on Flickr

35530589883_6526ac2158_c.jpgIMG_4279 by Steve Count, on Flickr


Edited by Prism7guy

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

35530588323_c63eee3382_c.jpgIMG_4312 by Steve Count, on Flickr

35530586923_1fecfe64b3_c.jpgIMG_4327 by Steve Count, on Flickr

35942483370_71ff3fae2b_c.jpgIMG_4330 by Steve Count, on Flickr

35530585723_03b825bc4e_c.jpgIMG_4340 by Steve Count, on Flickr

36294845296_45eab35c1a_c.jpgIMG_4342 by Steve Count, on Flickr

35530584603_63eeceb8a0_c.jpgIMG_4345 by Steve Count, on Flickr

35530581803_6551972e71_c.jpgIMG_4632 by Steve Count, on Flickr

Got a bargain Direnza alloy radiator on ebay one evening, think it's designed to fit a 205. It looked to provide more room with my current predicament which is why i went for it.

35942480750_965a7fc68d_c.jpgIMG_4644 by Steve Count, on Flickr

35530578293_92e553ea81_c.jpgIMG_4650 by Steve Count, on Flickr

35942479220_15edb5067b_c.jpgIMG_4656 by Steve Count, on Flickr

36202512401_f083cce2df_c.jpgIMG_4657 by Steve Count, on Flickr

35942478840_cccd57dcac_c.jpgIMG_4659 by Steve Count, on Flickr

36294835506_eefb3b3831_c.jpgIMG_4665 by Steve Count, on Flickr

35942477690_cb6f6efacd_c.jpgIMG_4692 by Steve Count, on Flickr

35530571493_079eee4a65_c.jpgIMG_4693 by Steve Count, on Flickr

35530572743_2d9cb0f290_c.jpgIMG_4672 by Steve Count, on Flickr

35530565333_e634e173f8_c.jpgIMG_4730 by Steve Count, on Flickr

35942473400_474cd6a4b3_c.jpgIMG_4731 by Steve Count, on Flickr

35530558753_e4506094db_c.jpgIMG_4812 by Steve Count, on Flickr

35530557633_03c8c52aba_c.jpgIMG_4822 by Steve Count, on Flickr

35942465380_8c01613068_c.jpgIMG_4836 by Steve Count, on Flickr

35530555783_8451d354c3_c.jpgIMG_4846 by Steve Count, on Flickr

35530570693_4dff150b08_c.jpgIMG_4695 by Steve Count, on Flickr

35942478110_7e224b3629_c.jpgIMG_4671 by Steve Count, on Flickr

35942474320_f1b85cc7a6_c.jpgIMG_4726 by Steve Count, on Flickr

35530563823_5c9daa41e9_c.jpgIMG_4734 by Steve Count, on Flickr

36339170695_17b10bbf56_c.jpgIMG_4851 by Steve Count, on Flickr

36339165715_431272681f_c.jpgIMG_4872 by Steve Count, on Flickr

35530549333_8fcdc071d8_c.jpgIMG_4871 by Steve Count, on Flickr

35503334444_fa5a4fb621_c.jpgIMG_5051 by Steve Count, on Flickr

36339153455_6661c31144_c.jpgIMG_5064 by Steve Count, on Flickr



I took a gamble on the DTA E48, buying it as spares or repairs. Turns out it was no good. It held the injectors open constantly so just poured petrol into the engine non-stop whenever the ignition was turned on, annoyingly I didn't notice until after filling the engine up with fresh oil. Sent it off to DTA to be fixed, but they didn't want to take the job on so I got it home, got annoyed at it as I'd already spent ages making a new loom up to suit that particular ECU. I didn't really want to buy another DTA after the dealings I'd had with them but ended up buying an S40 purely because the wiring was so similar and very little needed changing.


I got the engine up and running on a base map on the S40, I think it was the XE one. I took the car for a short test drive to try and tweak the maps a little as I'd booked a mapping session but had to drive the car there. (Too Yorkshire to buy a trailer, and nowhere will rent one out to me due to not having a towing license, and then the other small fact that I don't have a car to use to tow with either). I was about half a mile from home on an industrial estate when the supercharger decided to seize. I whipped off the aux belt and stuck the air filter onto the throttle body on the end of the inlet manifold and limped home, then bought a second supercharger off eBay.

The second 'charger arrived and I fitted it, drove the car to mapping and had everything done successfully. The car made 170bhp at the wheels. After mapping the guy who did the mapping asked me to take him out for a spin so he can check the map under normal conditions, so I obliged. A couple of miles down the road this 'charger seized solid.

I was talking to him about it as it wasn't the first time it had happened and he suggested getting rid of the throttle body sat at the 'charger inlet, and fitting a bigger dump valve which would deal with getting rid of the boost when it wasn't needed. I bought a third 'charger, removed the second throttle body and fitted a Tial Q dump valve with a 2psi spring suitable for supercharger applications. Since removing the second throttle body the 'charger no longer gets exceptionally hot even at idle, and I've not had any issues with the setup since.

I also came across a pretty cheap single skin Kevlar bonnet so snapped that up and fitted it, and fitted a satchshift kit around this time too.


This is what was happening to the superchargers:




I also wasn't sure whether it was vibrations from the crank which could have been killing the 'chargers at the time, so I made up a damping coupler out of some polyurethane which I've used in various other bits and bobs around the car.












I also adapted a spring loaded auto tensioner to take the 8 rib wide belt, to help keep the belt at a constant tension.



I took the car to a trackday at Blyton around this time, the car itself ran faultlessly all day, the only concern being the oil temperature shooting up to around 130-140 degrees, then once up there the coolant slowly starting to rise too. It seemed I was asking too much of the laminova and smaller 205 radiator, so I decided to go overkill on an air-oil cooler (30 row, it was on offer on eBay at the time and seemed rude not to get it). I also decided to make a shroud to force more air through the radiator rather than being able to go round the front end and into the wheel arches. I also made a shroud for the new oil cooler, which is fitted in front of the offside front wheel as that's the only place I could find space for it.






I also decided to spend a day looking at my bump steer as it seemed pretty severe. To keep it concise I measured various lengths whilst the car was at its normal ride height, then removed the springs from one of the front dampers and rebuilt everything else back up. Supported the car on the sills at the normal ride height but kept the other front wheel on the ground so it resisted any turning forces. Next I fixed a mirror to the brake rotor and setup a laser a set distance away facing towards the mirror, and had a notepad behind the laser to mark down the returned beams position for various scenarios.
To start with I put a jack under the wishbone and suspended the setup at its normal ride height, and put a datum mark on the notepad. Then I raised the wishbone setup in set increments and marked the new lasers position, likewise for lowering the wishbone.



After I'd done this I changed the spacing between the rose joint on the track rod and the upright, then did the above again. Spacing the track rod further down from the upright made the bump steer much more severe. After a while I decided that I could get away with a 4mm spacer with very little bump steer throughout the scope that the damper could handle. Ideally it would be less for even less bump steer but that's just not practical to do, so the next stage would be moving the rack a bit, but that's a project for another day. Here are some of the pictures of doing the above.






The new bump steer spacers.



After fitting these I did a trackday at Cadwell park and there is a massive improvement, so it was well worth spending a day messing about doing this.

Edited by Prism7guy

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Since I've had no issues with 'charger #3 I decided to strip down the two scrap 'chargers and have a go at sorting them out as I had nothing to lose but a bit of time, I've skimmed 0.2mm off the ends of the rotor faces, and cleaned up the face of the housing with a home made tool. I've also decided to port one of the housings incase I ever want to chase a bit more power, I did make two smaller pullies to suit the supercharger setup aswell when I made all the other pullies, so they will spin it faster and create more boost when I decide to go after a bit more oomph, but to be honest there's no point chasing power for the time being until I get a limited slip diff fitted.
Heres some pictures of my repairs.








I think that just about covers most of what I've done to this car to date, but it's still a work in progress.
Below is a link to my YouTube incase you want to watch any of the trackdays, I didn't bother copying links into this post as it took me hours to write in the first place and some bits aren't necessarily mentioned in the right order nearer the beginning of the thread.

  • Like 1

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Absolutely mega work Phteven, I've not see any of it since you fitted the charger. The damper on the pulley is a work of art!!!


The part where you measured your bump steer with a mirror and a lazer has confirmed that you are a psychopath..



Edit- shut up Steve

Edited by calvinhorse

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Just read through, very impressive, great work there.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Cracking read and some really good skill involved. Sweet.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites


Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Wow impressive!...

Great engineering and fabrication skills!!

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

As above, great read and nicely done!

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Am amazed at some of you guys on here who can just 'knock something together'.


Looks absolutely fantastic, great fabrication on those parts

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Very well done. As with the above comments, amazing fab skills.


Spend your next pay check on a plate diff. It will change your world.


Great work

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the kind words guys :)


Just a couple of recent updates, made and attached some aluminium strengtheners to the bonnet as it was flapping around too much at speed. Also changed the aluminium aerocatch pins to the stronger steel ones and replaced the half nuts supplied for nylocs. Had an incident where one of the half nuts vibrated off on a dual carriageway, scary doesnt even cover it! :lol:

One of the spot welds near where one of the bonnet pins had also broken, so i used a pop rivet to hold it down for the time being.







Next up i've had a couple of oil leaks from the take off plate area. The first was the fact that one of the an fittings on the plate would hit the supercharger bracket plate meaning it couldnt be nipped up as tight as needed, the problem being that one of the supercharger mounting bolts is in that area so it wasnt a case of just cutting the plate to suit the an fitting. In the end i drilled a new hole on the mounting plate 30mm away and knocked up an offset spacer at work to compensate and allow space for the an fitting at the same time.

I put helicoil inserts into the offset bracket for extra strength and durability.

Having seen how much easier this made life fitting and removing the 'charger i then made three other spacers with helicoils in each end, much easier than using the old through spacers with nylocs behind the mounting plate.








I also had an oil leak where one of the an adapters went into the take off plate, the fittings were just supplied with an o-ring and no face groove to sit in and keep it in place like the ones supplied with the torques remote filter housing ones did, if the fittings are too loose they leak, nip them up too much and it squeezes the o-ring out and leaks once again. Tried ordering a variety of dowty washers but none fitted great so i ordered a new pair of fittings that came with dowty washers. I then used them washers with my old fittings (the new ones were plated steel and weighed much more :lol: )


A quick test drive has proven that all the above fixes have worked so it's now ready for Pugfest.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Awesome, thanks for sharing. Bet it is serious fun to drive.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

You don't need to sell sand to the Arabs if you just sit back and let them wander in to order some more ;)

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

some nice engineering work there!


you should make some 205 parts to sell on here!

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks, yeah it's great fun to drive!


I won't be producing any custom bits for a while, my boss is a bit funny about me making stuff for my own car so making parts to sell on is out of the picture for the time being, maybe one day when i extend the garage and get a few machines of my own.


Not really much of an update, but i'm booked on a trackday at Cadwell on the 12th so thought i'd best get some fresh tyres fitted. Giving Nankang AR-1's a try this time, only heard good reviews about them so far and they're significantly cheaper than R888's.



I'll update this with some videos assuming Cadwell goes alright.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Cadwell came and went, no real drama during the day for me, temperatures were a little higher than i'd have liked but they were stable and it was a very warm day.


Some footage from the day:









Doing my best to keep up with a BTCC 306 :lol:

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice :)


Pete's an animal, no wonder his cars always broke! :P

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Time for another update.


The aluminium strips that i'd bonded to the underside of the bonnet came loose at Cadwell so i bought some aramid tape and bonded that over the top to hold them in place and stiffen up the bonnet a bit more.



I also caught all this oil in the catch tank just from the day at Cadwell, when i emptied it it was very runny, i'm not too sure whether thats normal or not so if anybody knows feel free to shout up, it also didnt smell too much like oil and had a slight smell of petrol to it, but i don't think im overfueling or getting bore wash as the wideband lambda shows the exhaust gasses to be around what i'd expect.



Last week i took the car to the Nurburgring for a couple of full days of TF, unfortunately the weather really wasn't on our side with loads of showers, once the rain stopped and the track started drying out there would be an inevitable crash and it would close again usually not opening until the next rain cloud was overhead so i didn't get too many laps in, and only a coule of half decent laps in at that. :(










The last evening of track time the track had been shut for a couple of hours whilst they recovered the 3+ cars off the track that had crashed previously, the weather was holding out and the track had been forming a somewhat dry line. I'd been waiting in the carpark in the hope that it would open and i'd get in one or two last laps before it closed, it eventually opened with around 20 mins until closing time so i jumped in the car with the intention of having a relatively clear track and being able to set a good lap time. As per my usual luck the car decided it had had enough and two of the bolts that hold the supercharger bracket to the engine mount sheared very early on in the lap, resulting in the 'charger twisting a bit on the other two bolts and the pulley damper then making contact with the front leg of the chassis.








As you can see it's made a mess of the dampers, so i've ordered some aluminium round bar to make new ones, with any luck i'll get them made in the next couple of weeks along with a new improved way of securing the 'charger bracket to the engine mount.


Here's the fateful final lap when the bolts decided to shear.


And heres another dry lap i managed the day before, 9:10BTG with three yellow flags and a very slow attempt at Bergwerk as I was on track around 15 minutes before this lap and there was fluid on the corner, meaning very little grip!


I'll be back there again next year, hopefully with more improvements and much better luck in terms of weather and a clear track, i think the car should be capable of 8:teens under the right conditions. :)

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Awesome work dude, love this thread.

What's size sc pulley did you use? I've just started a m62 conversion. Looking for 7-9 psi and would like to know what results you've had.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

I'll have to check the program for the diameter that i used on the sc, 80mm rings a bell, and 128mm for the crank pulley but i'll double check at work tomorrow and let you know.

If memory serves me right i went with 80mm sc pulley and 128mm crank pulley as i wanted the sc to be 12,000rpm when the crank is doing 7,500rpm.

The other sc pullies i've got will spin the sc 14,000 rpm as thats the safe limit from what i read, and one thats 10% less. I could do with booking another mapping session in the new year and have this current map checked with this pulley and get a couple of revisions made for the other two pullies, so it should be fairly simple to chop and change depending on how much power i want.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Forgot to mention previously, i was seeing 6psi with the 80mm pulley when i had it mapped but that seemed to drop to 4psi above 4,500rpm, i suspect due to belt slip and various other factors that i've now changed. At that boost level it was making a consistent 170bhp at the wheels, 175 was possible by advancing the timing but we decided to back it off a bit for some safety margin.


I've done a bit more work on the car this weekend, the old s/c damper setup took a bit of a battering when the stainless bolts sheared in germany:



The replacements, i made a spare of each just incase the worst should happen again.



The new spacers that sit between the engine mount and 'charger bracket, attached by six M10x1.25 12.9 capscrews, the aluminium has helicoils fitted which should increase strength a little and add some durability incase i need to remove them in the future. Likewise, i'm using M10x1.25 10.9 bolts to clamp the 'charger plate in place.





I also made an aluminium bracket that sits under the inlet manifold which supports one of the coolant hoses which runs from the thermostat housing to the header tank, that should reduce the risk of it getting caught on anything and causing a leak.



I'm just waiting for some high tensile bolts to arrive to mount the 'charger to the posts on the 'charger bracket, once they arrive next week the 'charger can be refitted and all the boost pipework can go back on ready for it's next trackday.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Cheers for the info dude, those figures roughly match my extremely limited math so at least I'm heading in the right direction. Wish I had your machining skills, alternative pulleys seem a bit scarce for the m62 so I'll prob nod up getting some made. Keep up the good work.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Forgot to ask, did you use a particular formula for sizing the sc pulleys?

  • Like 1

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now