djinuk 2 Posted January 1, 2008 i have a 1.9 gti 205 G reg , and will soon be needing to put my head back on, however i do not know the correct torque sequence , anybody care to enlighten me on it. much appreciated thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
steve@cornwall 100 Posted January 1, 2008 i have a 1.9 gti 205 G reg , and will soon be needing to put my head back on, however i do not know the correct torque sequence , anybody care to enlighten me on it. much appreciated thanks I was advised years ago that 60 lb/ft (in sequence) then + 90 deg. - is the way . Lots less hassle than the Haynes tighten / slacken / tighten method. Has always worked well. ( also re-using head bolts as also advised ) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
paul_portsmouth 3 Posted January 1, 2008 if its that torx topped botls then haynes says 60nm in a spiral working out slaken 20nm in a spiral again then 300 dgrees again in a spiral Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
matty_gti 20 Posted January 1, 2008 Also check out 'puma racings' method of tightning headbolts. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DamirGTI 323 Posted January 1, 2008 Hello ! I don't use angle tightening for head bolts , no more i had enough of terror and sweating .. instead of angle tightening I'm doing that this way : 1. stage - 30Nm 2. stage - 55Nm 3. stage - loosen each bolt one at a time 1/8th turn and retighten to 55Nm 4. stage - 80Nm 5. stage - 95Nm (70lbf ft) After a few hours i go over the bolts one more time - undone each bolt 1/4 turn and tight back to 95Nm ... ... and i never had any problems with this method Cheers ! Damir Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
djinuk 2 Posted January 1, 2008 i think im going to give your method a shot damir, wish me look, thanks for your help everybody much appreciated Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mikey S 29 1 Cars Posted January 1, 2008 (edited) i find the peugeot rccomended torque sequences and tightening torques perfectly adequate when done properly, after all they did build the engine in the first place! the threads need to be tapped to remove all the crap in the threads, then i use a little copper slip under the bolt head and for the first 10mm of thread or so. i do all headgaskets like this and i have never had one fail prematurely or a headbolt snap. you may want to search on the puma racing way of tightening headbolts as im sure some people have had pretty stunning headgasket failure after tightening them his way. Edited January 1, 2008 by pugger Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DamirGTI 323 Posted January 1, 2008 (edited) Hello ! Trust me it's much easier and non stressful method , just make sure that the block surface is spotless clean and dry , skim the head prior to refitting , check the liner protrusion , clean the head bolt threads inside the block (but don't use tap do this with an old head bolt , WD-40 and some clean rags - spray the head bolt threads with WD and run the bolt inside each hole 2-3 times all the way down and then back up , in between when you unscrew the bolt out each time clean the bolt threads with rag and spray some more WD on the treads and run him a few more times inside ..) , buy new head bolts and oil them lightly (lubricate the area beneath the head of the bolts and on the bolt threads..) and you'll be fine ! Cheers ! Damir oh , and this method is not my invention ! it's race engine builder - Guy Croft's recommendation for this precise engine if it's good for him it's good for me aswell my high CR engine is still running great and I've been using this method of head bolt tightening for some time now and never had problems with it . Edited January 1, 2008 by DamirGTI Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pug_ham 240 3 Cars Posted January 3, 2008 I basically use the Peugeot Method & torque figures but for the final 300' stage I do each bolt 100' at a time in order & as yet its been fine on the three engines I've done as recommended by Autodata. New headbolts everytime & lubed with molybdenum disulphide grease on the threads & under the heads as mentioned in haynes, not forgetting to fit the second thicker spacer under the bolt above the water pump. Graham. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Anthony 1,000 Posted January 3, 2008 Also check out 'puma racings' method of tightning headbolts. That's what I've used for a while now on numerous engines without issue. Firstly torque all the bolts in sequence to 25lbft, then around again to 50lbft, and finally around one last time to ~65-70lbft* (* - Pumaracing I think used to suggest 75lbft, but I found that the threads on alloy block engines felt like they were trying to strip and I couldn't get the required torque, so I do it a little less these days and I've never had any problems with headgaskets etc) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
