Baffled Sumps

[jord294 87]

people also extend the pick up and put a spacer on to give the extra volume needed to protect against lack of oil.

 

i'm considering buying a pts sump baffle for my 8v.

 

only thing i'm questioning really, is, that i don't understand 'extend the pick up and put spacer on'

 

does anyone have any pics please to explain?

 

was also thinking about bidding on this

 

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...e=STRK:MEWA:BID

 

cheers

[petert 549]

only thing i'm questioning really, is, that i don't understand 'extend the pick up and put spacer on'

 

Have a look at this:

 

http://www.taylor-eng.com/sump/wetsump.htm

[DrSarty 90 1 Cars]

The 'Project Sarty' thread mentions all of the items, such as:

- XU10 standard sump (which is already baffled) and also includes a windage tray

- Spacer (which literally adds more depth to the sump by moving the 'bottom' away from the top)

and includes a comparitive photo of two pumps, one with a James R extended pickup.

 

It'll all become clear once you've seen these three items, which are all shown on PeteT's link above ^^.

Edited January 1, 2008 by DrSarty

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

If it stays cheap then that Ebay link is fine, Much better than the XU10 ones but I still get both to surge even running road tyres and lowering the sump if using it on track isn;t a good idea unless it's the steel one as these can take the odd knock or 2 when Kerb hopping

[yorkdave 1]

so i have a couple of questions.

will a gti-6 trap door type sump bolt straight into my alloy block mi16?

or do i need to get rid of the strengthening ladder (something i don't want to do for obvious reasons)?

and does the oil pick up need extending if i do keep the strengthening ladder?

[petert 549]

The GTi6 sump will bolt straight on to the alloy Mi16 block.

 

I would use the stiffening plate as well, in which case you need to extend the pickup if you want to use the extra one litre of oil capacity created.

[philfingers 5]

Done some searching and I've not really found the answer BUT what's the difference between an std XU10 sump and a GTi6 sump. I'm already considering the PeterT extension and using the spacer/ stiffener too, along with Gti6 windage tray and oil pump baffles.

Some folk talk of the XU10 sump and others of the GTi6 one, anyone clarify which is best?

[Anthony 1,000]

GTi-6 sump is a variant of an XU10 sump - XU10 sump merely refers to any 2 litre XU engine sump, and a GTi-6 is a 2 litre XU engine.

[philfingers 5]

so does that mean they are one and the same, if not what are the differences and is there a better one of the two to use?

 

Phil

[C_W 3 1 Cars]

The GTi6 engine is a developement of the 2.0Mi16/S16 engine, think "RS" bit of the engine code signifies the GTi6 engine but both very similar, but all XUs have varying sumps fitted, the 1.9 Mi16 engines seem to come with either alloy or tin sumps.

[Anthony 1,000]

so does that mean they are one and the same, if not what are the differences and is there a better one of the two to use?

There's basically three designs of XU10 sump that I know of:

1. Tin sump - found on non-aircon 2.0 8v and S16 models. Probably the better choice for a road car, as the tin sump doesn't disipate heat as well thus allowing the oil to run a bit hotter, and the sump will take knocks and bumps better than an alloy one - tin bends, alloy cracks/breaks. The main disadvantages is that I've seen some sumps that have significant corrosion on them, and often the tin sumps have the stupid plastic trapdoor which needs modifying so that it doesn't fall apart.
   
2. "Narrow" alloy sump - found on aircon 2.0 8v and S16 models. My personal prefered choice for retro-fitting to XU5 and XU9 engines, it's compact, fairly light, helps cool the oil on track, and has the metal trapdoor that doesn't fall apart.
   
3. "Big wing" alloy sump - found on GTi-6 and most 2.0 16v 406's etc. Similar to the above sump in most respects, but has two sizeable alloy "wings" on the gearbox end of the sump that make it rather more bulky. If you've the correct BE box (I'm not sure which ones do and don't have the appropriate holes) then you can bolt the gearbox to the sump as well, reducing dependancy on the single lower bolt that most BE gearboxes have (and that often comes loose and gives clutch and gear selection problems) or you can no doubt chop them off if you were so inclined - they fit and work perfectly fine though.
   

Hope that helps. Remember to get the bolts with them (they're different to XU9 ones) and the oil temp sensor, if fitted (it is on all 306's that I've seen and most earlier XU10's, but alot of lower spec laters cars have a blanking bung in place of the sensor and it's different to XU5/XU9 ones)

[philfingers 5]

Perfect Anthony just the answer I've been searching for! Thanks for all the info, things just got a lot clearer!