Treating Surface Rust

[d-9 0]

The quick engine swap on my 309 has turned into a major rebuild, and its time to tackle the surface rust on the boot floor and around the beam mountings

 

At the moment all the rust is surface, so i was planning on bringing it back to metal, priming, painting and undersealing, is it worht using some kind of special primer? Are the paint on rust treatments like krust any good for the areas i cant get too?

[yorkshirekowboy 19 1 Cars]

The quick engine swap on my 309 has turned into a major rebuild, and its time to tackle the surface rust on the boot floor and around the beam mountings

 

At the moment all the rust is surface, so i was planning on bringing it back to metal, priming, painting and undersealing, is it worht using some kind of special primer? Are the paint on rust treatments like krust any good for the areas i cant get too?

 

 

mate what do and use in the end, as im planing to do the same but behind my rear door cards/sills!!

 

and tips and products used would be good

 

thanks

[futura 3]

I am doing mine at the moment, took my fuel tank off for a clean and found quite a bit of surface rust underneath.

 

I am getting rid of most of the rust with a wire wheel brush, then coarse sand paper to finish.

Next I put some rust converter where access was difficult and rust remains. I leave it to dry as required and then sand again.

 

I use some phosphate/anti-corrosion primer, sand it down with 800 sandpaper, apply a second layer and paint afterwards.

[boombang 2]

I've been doing this extensively on my shell - stripping back underseal, dressing back welds etc.

 

Using a wire brush (a DECENT one, and wear eye/hand protection please) in an angle grinder. Grind back until shiny as possible.

 

Use a suitable rust convertor. Hammerite Kurust is easily available and works pretty well. www.bilthamber.com do hydrate 80 which is supposed to be even better.

 

Once this has cured/dried, I have flattened it all back off with the angle grinder and used a zinc phosphate primer. Thin layer, leave to dry out, another layer to build up 3-4 layers, each time just enough to cover the area.

[hengti 2]

for rust on easy to get to surfaces, i can recommend 3M poly discs - they sell them in B&Q

 

they're rediculously expensive for what they are (about £7-8 last time i bought one) but you'll not find anything that's easier to use or more effective - they're unbelieveably good. you need to be fairly light with them though, as they wear down pretty quickly and flick bits all over the place

[smckeown 1]

Good posts on here to be searched, such as metal ready, acid etch primer and the 3m stripping wheel

[yorkshirekowboy 19 1 Cars]

ok thanks

 

im just wanting to treat down the back or rear door cards (sills meet quarter panel), looks ok for now, maybe a bit of surface rust, so going to treat it. i have found some damp mud one both sides of the back of rear quarter/sills!!!! is there drainage holes down there to drain the water when or if water gets down back of rear card, or is the water stuck?

 

what paint is recomended juts to paint over the top to prevent it form starting etc?

 

thanks

[d-9 0]

Lol thread from the dead.

 

I used a grinder with a wire brush (with straight bristles not twisted ones) on to shift the rust and flakey paint/underseal, make sure u use eye and ear protection (and long sleaves etc, plucking bits of the wire from the brush out of your skin isnt fun).

 

I then treated anything that was left with a couple of coats of "Hamerite No1 Rust Eater" which is a thick rust killer and primer. After leaving that to dry for a few days I brushed on a few thick coats of black paint, then after that had dried throughly I waxoyled everything.

 

Water drains into the sills from behind the rear door cards, probably worth changing the rear window seals.

[gizzmo 3 1 Cars]

iworkas as electrican for one of the countrys leading metal finishing companies, ecoat/powder coat ect carpanels is part of our buiness we use acid clean for oils and caustic soda on rust i,ll speak to the henkel chemist for his opinion and post what he says

[Guest BrainFluid]

intweeging...

[johnrobertgordon 0]

Theres a stuff called Crust, just paint it onto the rust and it chemically changes it into a workable surface. I just rub down the rusted area paint crust on rub down again and then paint over. Kills the rust.

[Sandy 189]

The only way to get a properly rust free and keyed surface is the either abrasive blast or (more applicable to DIY) skim with a fine grinding disc. Wire bruches only polish the oxidised surface, the don't remove rust properly or key the metal, if the metal has become porous, it will return, possibly quite quickly, even if you can see it under the paint initially. Get the first coat of paint on ASAP, flash rusting is rapid and can also spoil the result.

8 years in the marine coatings business taught me the importance of good prep!

[gizzmo 3 1 Cars]

iworkas as electrican for one of the countrys leading metal finishing companies, ecoat/powder coat ect carpanels is part of our buiness we use acid clean for oils and caustic soda on rust i,ll speak to the henkel chemist for his opinion and post what he says

 

as i said spook to chemist today he said either phosphate that can apparantly be bought in stick form, clean area apply phosphate (apparantly will go blackish) fill then paint.the other chemical that is used for rust treatment is aledin 5200, think iv spelt it right apparantly better but i couldn,t sayhow easy it is to get hold of but google may com up trumps, fortunatly i can get hold of buckets of the stuff, so phosphate may be best . both of these treat and protect from further rust hope this helps

[Rob_the_Sparky 9]

Most of the "rust eaters" that you put on prior to painting are Phosphate based. My weapon of choice is Jenolite but there are others.

 

After many years away from rust my 309 has just re-introduced me. Using a wire bursh under the car - I knew there was a damn good reason I hated bodywork so much!!! I always come out looking like a coal miner.

 

Rob

[Beastie 1]

Most of the "rust eaters" that you put on prior to painting are Phosphate based. My weapon of choice is Jenolite but there are others.

 

After many years away from rust my 309 has just re-introduced me. Using a wire bursh under the car - I knew there was a damn good reason I hated bodywork so much!!! I always come out looking like a coal miner.

 

Rob

 

I like Jenolite too -- it's not so concentrated as Metal Ready so it's easier to use on exterior panelwork where you don't want to risk such a heavy build up of phosphate. I still use Metal Ready in box sections though. It's a shame that Jenolite seem to sell a "lite" version for DIY use. The professional stuff is only available in larger quantities and is supposed to be trade only. It's excellent stuff.