smighall 1 Posted July 15, 2006 Hi Guys, I'm starting my gti6 conversion, but can't seem to find any wiring diagrams anywhere for the 6 engine. Has anybody got a diagram of the wiring, and any other tips for what needs to be plugged into where? Cheers Sean Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sonofsam 5 Posted July 15, 2006 Why not ask on www.306gti6.com. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
M@tt 77 Posted July 15, 2006 (edited) www.buzzboxx.co.uk/306(1993-K)to(1999-T).zip not sure if its got gti6 wiring specifically but might do HTH Matt Edited July 15, 2006 by M@tt Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sonofsam 5 Posted July 15, 2006 That linky it does not worky. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sonofsam 5 Posted July 15, 2006 Yep thats got it cheers M@tt Some clues here also. http://forum.205gtidrivers.com/index.php?s...hl=gti-6+wiring Got a mate thinking of this conversion also..ie.. I'll be doing it Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
smighall 1 Posted July 16, 2006 Why not ask on www.306gti6.com. Have done mate, but no replies as yet. www.buzzboxx.co.uk/306(1993-K)to(1999-T).zip not sure if its got gti6 wiring specifically but might do HTH Matt Thanks mate Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
littlemike 0 Posted July 16, 2006 Here you go, as I typed it on the 306gti6 forum This is for a P2 Gti6, I can't remember which side of the multiplugs I got the wire numbers and colours from. It was probably the car side not the engine loom side. Some of the numbers and wire colours change as they go through the multiplugs. 8 pin round multiplug: (you won't need to wire any of these unless you use the key immobiliser) Brown 8071 -to air con pump (n/a) Yellow 808 -brown temp sender on stat housing (n/a) Yellow 8081 -as wire 808 above. Green 8055 -aircon (n/a) Green 1234 -aircon (n/a) Yellow 820 -immobiliser ecu Pink 821 -immobiliser ecu Beige 822 -immoliliser ecu 19 pin round multiplug: Green 140 -obd socket Beige 141 -obd socket Beige 480 -engine fault/k light (switched -tve) Beige 401 -coolant temp gauge sender Yellow/Green -M444 -permanent earth/-tve Yellow 414 -oil level gauge (n/a) Green 415 -as wire 414 above Yellow 410 -oil pressure warning light Yellow 465 -goes to wire no.1360, vehicle speed sensor on gearbox (electrical speedo drive) (n/a) Red 426 -obd socket + rev counter/tacho speed Red 411 -oil temp sender Grey CC4 -Air bag control unit?? (switched +tve) (n/a) Grey C120 -reverse light switch Orange 220 -reverse light switch Grey 123 -Switched +tve that powers Lambda sensor. (Power comes from wire no.120 and then goes through fuse 11 in a 306) Dark Brown/Redish -1070 alternator warning/charging light White 400 -coolant temp gauge sender Thick White 100 -switched +tve to starter motor (to start) Thick White 120 -fuel pump (through fuse 9 in a 306) I haven't wired the engine into the 205 yet so the wiring's not guaranteed to be 100% correct. Let me know if you find any errors Disclaimer: no liability can or will be taken if you set your car on fire/blow the ecu up Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Alastairh 47 Posted May 15, 2007 Bring up an old thread, but just thought id point out for anyone doing a search. But im doing the loom on my 6, everything seems correct to what i have from what you've put up littlemike, but noticed theres no permant live listed. Looking through another thread jochem said he couldn't remember wiring in a perm live, so am i missing something? Alastair Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
maxi 36 1 Cars Posted May 15, 2007 The permanant live on a gti6 loom runs from the main positive terminal to starter motor to alternator wire, this is why this should be kept when doing the conversion. Hope that clears it all up mate, any questions give me ashout, I have done loads of these, know them as well as mi's. Maxi Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Alastairh 47 Posted May 15, 2007 Nice one mate. Was just about to give you a pm, as your the person to ask! Can't wait till the South meet! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Toddy 7 Posted June 18, 2007 Help please from those in the know about GTI6 conversions I have the main +ve battery cable from the 306 connected to starter etc & also the negative battery terminal which is earthed on the Gearbox and inner wing. From the 19 pin connector I have: Wire CC1 linked to the switched live from Ignition, which goes into pin 14 on the main relay. Wire 120A is attached to the fuel pump and also bridged with wire 123 for the lambda sensor. Wire 100 to starter motor switch. Wire 444 (Green/blue) to earth, is this needed? ECU is an unlocked one from Jonnie205. Lambda sensor is connect up but is not in the exhaust The fuel pump primes but there is no fuel when cranked over, what is the easiest way to test for a spark on the 6 engine? Any ideas why it is not running???????????, it should be just like wiring an MI, apart from it hasn't fired first time! What have I forgot to wire up? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Alastairh 47 Posted June 20, 2007 Toddy, replied to your pm mate I haven't wired the engine into the 205 yet so the wiring's not guaranteed to be 100% correct. Let me know if you find any errors Disclaimer: no liability can or will be taken if you set your car on fire/blow the ecu up The wiring Little mike posted, i tried when i did mine, and it doesn't work. Off the top of my heads the switched lives weren't correct, causing the engine not to spark, making it look like an ecu lock or crank sensor error. You will get fuel though via the constant live. Alastair Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Alastairh 47 Posted July 9, 2007 How did you get on Toddy? Enjoying the 6 yet? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Toddy 7 Posted July 9, 2007 How did you get on Toddy? Enjoying the 6 yet? Alastair After much testing with the multimeter I concluded it must be the ECU even though it was an unlocked unit, I sent it to the ECU Doctor and they informed me it had a failed injector board, Should have the ECU back tomorrow, the rest of the car is ready so hopefully be on the road by this weekend Have you played about with the cam timing to try to extract the extra 10bhp & 10lb/ft that you can get out of the 6? Thanks, Toddy Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pj838 0 Posted January 24, 2008 (edited) OK, its yet another gti6 wiring question Have my 6 engine in the car, I have used the 6 starter and alternator, and have used the 205's battery +ve and -ve connections/wiring. Connected up everything to the engine bay fuse box that was there before, inc the thick brown wire that goes into the cabin, and all the earths to the gearbox. One turn of the key and all the lights, wipers etc are working. Even the last owners diy alarm installation is working So that leaves the engine loom stuff; I took out the 205 ECU, and all the wires that were connected to it, stripped out of the engine bay. I have kept all the wiring to the brown multiplug that connects the smaller engine bay 205 loom. I have simply plugged the old gearbox reversing light plug back into the gearbox. At the minute the 4 pin brown plug that was to the ign module is hanging loose. So far, from the 306's 19 pin multiplug, I have connected: Earth - to gearbox earth 123 (lambda) - to switched live 100 (switched live to starter.?) - to switched live 120 (fuel pump.?) - to switched live. All these switched lives are coming from the thick white wire coming into the engine bay from the original 205 loom. From another thread, I think it was smighall saying that there was a wire to pin 14 on the double relay that needed to be switched live also. From the haynes mmap10 diagram, this should be a grey wire, cc2 (joined to yellow cc2). However this is nowhere to be seen in the 19 pin plug! And is it correct there is no 'permanent live to the ECU' as missing from littlemike's list above? At the minute when I turn the key I get the starter to crank, but nothing else. No fuel pump priming or running yet. The wires in my 19 pin plug are as follows: 414 yellow 465 yellow 401 beige 220 orange 426 red 411 red 400 white 1070 brown 140 green 415 green 141 beige 480 beige 410 yellow c31 grey c120 grey earth 123 grey 100 white 120 white I know this is a piece of pi** to some people on here and they're probably tired of people asking it by now, but any pointers would be much appreciated . As the engine is cranking its like so near yet so far! Paul. Edited January 24, 2008 by pj838 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Toddy 7 Posted January 24, 2008 1) iirc from memory pin 14 from the double relay needs a switched live. 2) The positive battery terminals on the 306 is the permanent live 3) Connect the output to the fuel pump , this becomes live once the double relay receives the input from the switched live/ and the engine is cranking/running It should run now without the lambda as it reverts to a base map. If it does not run check the ouputs on the double relay. Once running sort Lambda, VSS etc Cheers Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pj838 0 Posted January 24, 2008 Aaaaahh!! it started when I connected the 'c31' wire to the other switched positives! Wouldn't stop when I turned the key off though! So its just a simple problem to sort this out then? Not too bothered about sensors etc at this stage Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pj838 0 Posted January 24, 2008 Even with the ignition switched off, the engine is running just off the alternator? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pug_ham 240 3 Cars Posted January 25, 2008 AFAIK the permanent live for the 306 loom is connected to the feed from the battery terminal via the starter / alternater by a ring terminal instead of plugging into the shunt box like the original 205 ecu loom was. The brown four pin plug is more likely to be for the coil imo, the ignition module has a six pin black plug which is fairly specificly shaped for it. One wire from the coil plug (wire #2, thick red) can be connected to pin 14 on the double injection relay to supply power iirc if its the same as the MM8P loom set up then the double relay sends the feed to the coilpacks, fuel pump etc when it has a switched live into it @ pin 14. The starter can use the original blue wire #46 from the 205 brown multiplug to avoid using the starter wire accidientally somewhere else unless you've connected this to wire #100. Sounds like you've got a crossed wire somewhere for it to stay running with the key turned off. Graham. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shooter mcgavin 37 Posted January 28, 2008 without sounding stupid where is the double relay Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pj838 0 Posted January 29, 2008 Cheers Toddy, Graham, got my engine running ok now. Can't tell you what a relief it is! Run it briefly a few times as I'm still tidying up the engine bay, but its smooth, not tappy, good idle and fired first time when I got the wiring right :) I used the blue 46 wire as the starter, and the red wire from the old coil plug (my mistake) as a feed for the lambda and relay. Then I took one of the white wires that went to the grey/white crimped connector in the old loom and connected to the fuel pump on the gti6 loom. And the ECU earth of course. Shooter on the 306 loom the relay is a small black box which bolts to the back of the 306 battery/ecu box. Also the fuel cutoff/inertia switch is a 2pin connector near to the relay, I have just joined these two wires together to bypass it. Thanks! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
