Explosion

[mmt 15]

Hi guys

had a blast of a race weekend however it ended quite suddently. The gearbox started knocking and 1 lap later it completely gave up. I can’t even find neutral anymore. 
 

it is a be1 box with a plate diff. Is the be3 better/stronger? I have an Old worn be1 in stock but dont want to destroy another gearbox. Can I do anything to strengthen the be1 box or should I find a be3? 

any thoughts welcome. 

thanks  

[SRDT 172]

Some BE1 are stronger than others, namely the ones with special casings and BE3 style clutch fork used with the XU9J4 and XUD7TE engines. Also late BE1 and early BE3 are pretty much the same.

 

Late BE3 with "BE4" gear housings are discussed a bit here:

 

[welshpug 1,649]

I've not noticed any significant changed from a 205 be1 to be3 other than how reverse works, the rest is nigh on identical.

 

Have you figured out what's broken?

[DamirGTI 342]

Late BE3 :

 

 

[mmt 15]

On 8/27/2024 at 1:28 PM, welshpug said:

I've not noticed any significant changed from a 205 be1 to be3 other than how reverse works, the rest is nigh on identical.

 

Have you figured out what's broken?

Not yet. No time. 
It seems quite severe though. 
 

how will a plate diff fail - when it fails? 
 

I’ll report back. 

[welshpug 1,649]

Unlikely to be the diff if it's a plate type unit.

[mmt 15]

Found an old unknown box. Be1 and has a number on the housing “XU30” 

 

does that mean anything to anyone? 
 

thanks guys

[welshpug 1,649]

its a fairly early box, no crank sensor boss or BE3 style clutch arm holes, level plug on the front,   probably 1986 or earlier, no good for a gti6 or mi16 unless you run a timing wheel on the crank pulley end.

 

the number just means its for an XU engine sitting at 30 degrees, the earlier gearboxes would have had a sticker above the diff casing with the code and gear ratio, typically illegible or long gone by now.

[mmt 15]

15 hours ago, welshpug said:

its a fairly early box, no crank sensor boss or BE3 style clutch arm holes, level plug on the front,   probably 1986 or earlier, no good for a gti6 or mi16 unless you run a timing wheel on the crank pulley end.

 

the number just means its for an XU engine sitting at 30 degrees, the earlier gearboxes would have had a sticker above the diff casing with the code and gear ratio, typically illegible or long gone by now.

THANKS. always amazed of your knowledge. Thanks for sharing. 

I’m on stand alone with a trigger wheel on the (other) end of the crank. mi bottom hybrid engine. 
 

do I fill it until it come out of the level Hole? How much Oil would you use. I believe I have been overfilling before - using 2 Liters of Oil.  
 

 

[welshpug 1,649]

Same as any other BE gearbox yes, they take about 2 litres.

[mmt 15]

Pictures more than 1000 words. 

[mmt 15]

Anybody have the torque numbers for the diff housing? 
and for the cog/ring on the diff? 
 

please.  

Edited September 28 by mmt

[mmt 15]

AND

 

how do I remove the bolts ? Can’t get a socket on as it is too close to the diff. 
 

more questions to come :-) 

 

help is much appreciated. Thanks. 

[mmt 15]

[SRDT 172]

http://ckc.dk/pubs/BRE_0370_098939_BVM_BE3-4.pdf

https://data.over-blog-kiwi.com/1/48/53/59/20210202/ob_91c721_documentation-technique-boite-be3-5-co.pdf

 

6 - 6.5 m.daN for the diff and you go from one bolt to the opposite like with wheel bolts.

 

For disassembly it's better to loosen all the bolts first to free the ring, otherwise you can damage the threads as the ring is very close and can shift a bit after assembly.

[mmt 15]

Thanks mate. Great link. 
 

this means crown wheel bolts = 65 nm. 
 

what about the small and large bolts in the diff casing though? Is that 12.5 nm small and 40 for the Big ones? 
 

 

thanks

Edited September 28 by mmt

[welshpug 1,649]

Sounds correct, small ones being M7 and the larger ones M10.

[mmt 15]

Everything back together. Diff plates was mint. 
 

thanks for your help guys.