XU10J4RS igniton,ve, afr map help

[AnarkLLa 0]

Hi,

Im new to this community, thank you very much for your future help.
Im french, sorry for my bad english.

Here is the context :

I've got a stock xu10j4rs wired with a speeduino ecu (aem wideband wired in)

Everything work and it is idling. BUT it is ROUGH !

 

Could someone help me with my maps ?
Here is the AFR/SPARK/VE table

 

Thank you very much guys.

 

Clara.

 

[petert 550]

First, did you pick the fuel RPM load points? Some are way too close (eg 5500, 5700, 5900, 6100) and in other areas, not enough (2300 to 4800). That will do your head in, as there isn't enough difference in fuel demands over that 5500-6100 range. I'd just make them every 500 RPM to begin with.
The maximum fuel load will occur at the peak torque, say around 5000, then taper off after that, which you've sort of done.

You have an AFR table. Is there an autotune feature?

 

Attached is a VE fuel map for a reasonably standard XU10J4.

Edited January 16, 2022 by petert

[AnarkLLa 0]

Hi, thank you very much for your help, i wasn't expecting that much details !

I wasn't sure if this modification were needed but now that you pointed this, i did it. YES i have an autotune feature, but for now the idle is way to rich, im idling at 13.5 AFR, and the target is 14.7
Im running on e85, but i did not applied change to the stoichiometric value because i've seen before that you could stay with the 14.7 value as im used to this reference. (afr gauge in cars),

 

Here is my settings, i think it is correct.

 

 

Here is my new table axis, i applied this axis on all of my tables. I will try to replicate more or less what i see on the ve table you gave me, maybe mine will need more fuel as its an RS engine.

 

 

THANKKK YOUU, sportively 
Clara.
 

[petert 550]

Are you sure about the 14.7:1 for E85? I think it's supposed to be 9.7. If you set your gauge to lambda, then yes, 1.0 is correct. Why do you want stoichiometric idling? I normally aim for low-mid 13's for petrol.  It's a lot happier. Or 0.9 lambda. I know the greenies don't like it.

 

I doubt you need any more fuel. My XU10J4 had a different inlet cam and made approx. 180hp.

 

The VE is just a number and the size of the injector you enter will affect the fuelling. Thus ideally you need to be 100 max at max torque and get it to idle at around 30.

 

For example, I'm guessing it idles at 900 and -60kPa (40kPa on your scale). I'd have a value of 30 there and adjust the injector size so it idles correctly.

Edited January 16, 2022 by petert

[SRDT 146]

You should probably map it first with SP98. The winter E85 at the pump right now is low on ethanol anyway so it's good for finding cold start values but not so much for max power.

[AnarkLLa 0]

In fact, my gauge shows 1.00 lambda and that correspond to 14.7 in TS so its ok i think. I will put 13.5 on my AFR table for idling, but isn't your car smell gasoline too much when idling at 13/13.5 lambda ? 
If your Xu10j4 made 180hp i think i can use your VE as a reference then ! my xu10j4rs is stock, with smart coil on plug from golf 5 gti.

 

I've made the change on my VE table and i will test that tomorrow, i did the 13.5 change on my AFR table too.
The AFR table is my biggest lack of knowledge, i know what it does but i have no idea what my xu10j4rs need. I searched about OEM ECU lambda map but couldn't find one that could help me build a correct AFR table.

Should i use auto tune when idling fully warmed up, or not ?

 

 

The E85 that is in my car is from this summer and is probably about 80% ethanol

Edited January 16, 2022 by AnarkLLa

[petert 550]

It's still too rich below and above 5000. Note how mine goes from 73.8 at 2000 to 103.8 at 5000. Yours is going from 93 to 95. Then after 5000, mine tails off. I don't think those values above 7000 are correct for mine.

 

Your AFR table isn't too bad.

Replace anything >14.7 with 14.7.

Replace everything under 1400 with 13.5.

Replace anything <13 with 13.0. It doesn't need to be that rich.

Definitely use autotune to under light-medium loads. It's usually not much use below 1200, as there isn't enough exhaust flow.

[SRDT 146]

E85 from last summer can turn bad with lost octane rating and water contamination, if you keep having problems at idle try with fresh gas.

[AnarkLLa 0]

4 hours ago, SRDT said:

E85 from last summer can turn bad with lost octane rating and water contamination, if you keep having problems at idle try with fresh gas.

This is definitely a problem i think Im running on bad e85. I will do this as soon as possible.

 

Here is the new AFR table i made accordingly to what you advised. Is it a problem if the values change from 13.5 to 14.7 between 1100 and 2000 rpm ? I mean, doesn't it have to be smooth ?

I am so happy that i had that much help from you guys, thank you very much.

At first it seems to be easy, but it is not. A standalone ECU is pain when you don't know where to start. 

 

Edited January 17, 2022 by AnarkLLa

[petert 550]

Just make all of 500, 900 and 1100 columns 13.5. I doubt they'll be enough gas flow to get a reliable AFR there anyway.

 

The 1500 column can be mostly 14.4 from 16-66kPa. Then leave the rest as is.

 

The rest looks good to go.

 

I see in your screen shot above, why 14.7 works for E85. You've set stoichiometric to 9.8.

 

How do you make the autotune feature work?

[AnarkLLa 0]

The autotune is from the 60€ paid version of TunerStudio here is the thing :

I can autotune the WUE too.

 

I can set a table to get a temperature based influence on the AFR table, and this is mine :

 

This is the VE autotune :

 

The AFR table (Thank you very much for your help, i hope it would also helps the others)

 

Should i set up the AFR correction active above 1500rpm ? 

Edited January 17, 2022 by AnarkLLa

[petert 550]

All very interesting. Mine doesn't have autotune as such. It does have an AFR table, which needs to match the VE table. If I push the Q key, whilst load is steady on a cell, it will autotune that cell. If I push Q then W, in quick succession, it copies to the surrounding cells as well. Thus why some values in my VE table might be whole numbers, keyed in, but others nearby are more random numbers. I never really finished that project, thus it's a bit rough around the edges. Keep us posted.

[Spesh 28 1 Cars]

would you post a screenshot of your trigger setup please

[AnarkLLa 0]

Hi, here it is

 

 

[AnarkLLa 0]

Unfortunately, my stepper motor is almost dead and my fuel pomp is stuck, i ordered the two and will test every change after that, see you soon !

[petert 550]

Here's the ignition map from the same XU10J4 engine.

[AnarkLLa 0]

Wow 35 ! that's a lot isn't it ?
For the idle, 10 is good ? Im running about 20 at the moment..
That's a lot of difference from my maps, I feel like Im far away from having a good spark table

 

Edited January 18, 2022 by AnarkLLa

[petert 550]

On my table, 0kPa is wide open throttle, -100kPa is full overrun/vacuum. So thus yes, cruising at 80km/h, light throttle, 2500, it would be pulling around 33-35 deg. Idle is 10, but then the 800 row has more so if it starts to stumble, the little bit extra advance helps pick it back up.

[AnarkLLa 0]

Ahh!! okay so at WOT you're at 28! I understand it better now. 

I see on the 800 rpm line, there is more advance at - 30kpa. So i assume your engine idle a ~20kpa and when it begin to stumble, the engine is going to the ~30 ~40kpa zone? 

Thank you for your share, this i think will help a lot! 

Edited January 19, 2022 by AnarkLLa

[AnarkLLa 0]

2 hours ago, AnarkLLa said:

Ahh!! okay so at WOT you're at 28! I understand it better now. 

I see on the 800 rpm line, there is more advance at - 30kpa. So i assume your engine idle a ~20kpa and when it begin to stumble, the engine is going to the ~30 ~40kpa zone? 

Thank you for your share, this i think will help a lot! 

Forget about what i was saying, i did not see at first but you're idling on the left of the map not on the right, im not used to see the map this way, mine is the other way..

[AnarkLLa 0]

I deferred the table you've shared on my own table format, with some interpolation it wasn't to hard.
i share it for the others, i hope there is no mistakes. 

can't wait to try everything on the car.
I will use this table as a "basetune" should i lower the high rpm number at first ?
I guess not, because Im running on e85 so there is less chance to have knock ? 

Thank you

[petert 550]

With E85, you'll be able to add more timing at full load, ie across your 100 kPa row. Maybe 2-3 more degrees? I wouldn't try it until you've verified the base timing with a timing light, and/or on the dyno. Can you lock it at 10º BTDC?

 

I'm also puzzled by your trigger angle. I know 360-246 = 114, but why make it go all the way around? Could you not enter 114?

 

Edited January 19, 2022 by petert

[AnarkLLa 0]

Hi,

For the angle, I think its because in the settings its "ATDC" and not BTDC, but i need to check my timing wiht a timing light, i bought one and will do that when i will understand what should i see on the flywheel.

[AnarkLLa 0]

For the idling valve, did you keep the stepper motor from the oem setup ?

[petert 550]

Yes, but I was using a 2 wire XU9J4 IAC, which are a pain to get working with aftermarket ecu's. The later three wire versions work a lot better.