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Arthur

Hard solder (CuSi) (tig) on 205 body

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Arthur
Posted (edited)

Hello all

 

Do you have any experience with hard solder on 205? I found out my (sun)roof might be leaking and I took out al interior to pump out 5 liters of water. I will drive without headlining and floor for some time to see how and where the real problem is. I was planning to remove my sunroof, but not sure. If this turns out to be the problem, The decision might be made. Put now checking the forum i see a lot of sunroof removals that I feel like not done very proper. E.g. just masking the rear holes with putty and or just kitting an alu plate. Mine is not a racecar...  I have seen a youtube though on tig welding with CuSi filler. (so actually hard soldering) Or do Brit's say brazing? 

 

Looked very nice on the spot welded and sealed joints which that are always a weak point on 205s. Also this might be nice to holder a roof skin. They say the CuSi filler melds a bit before the metal, so much less warping and chance of burning holes in thin sheet metal. A bit weaker though than actual welding, but I guess full soldering is better that spot welds every 100 mm. Any experience? 

 

 

 

Edited by Arthur

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Ozymandis

In English we would call using this kind of filler rod, brazing or even bronze welding, rather than soldering.

 

("Brits " is a derogative term. e.g. Huns, Frogs, Eyeties etc)

 

Traditionally  a gas set was used  for brazing,  and used tacking techniques/heat absorbent putties etc to minimise distortion. I like the idea of tig brazing. Next time I'm in the forge I will have a go.

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Arthur
Posted (edited)

Sorry, I ment English speaking humans. Like people that say bonnet, mudguard and petrol ;)

Edited by Arthur

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Arthur

Well after letting the car in the rain without headlining and carpet I see the car is as leak as a basket (Dutch expression)

 

Some of the drain tubes of the roof are wet, but also the water is coming in from between the sunroof seal. But also the isolation behind the dash is very wet. Even after I've removed all the leaves and s*it out of the bulkhead top, it still seems to leak in, also from there. Expect some welding/brazing to come up coming weeks. I'm waiting on the CuSi filler rods, to give it a go. 

 

2C84A01A.thumb.gif.7e77658fbab527bd91eb772e9af767a3.gif

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nixonmi16

Check the seam sealer on the strut top mount in the engine bay as this is the bulkhead seam. Open the bonnet and put a hose on the top mount then check for leaks. they can also have holes in the box section by the bonnet hinge. I have loads of photos showing bulkhead repairs in this area.

780F3F75-C40A-43DD-AA5C-399CBB203D8C.jpeg

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Arthur

Willdo. If it was summer, I would ask the kids to hose the outside while I'm in the car. But i'm now freezing my hands off clearing near freezing water and 1/2 hour daylight left after work. It's not a runner at the moment, but I hope to solved that soon. Than I can at least drive it 20 meters to my carpoort.  

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Callum
15 hours ago, nixonmi16 said:

Check the seam sealer on the strut top mount in the engine bay as this is the bulkhead seam. Open the bonnet and put a hose on the top mount then check for leaks. they can also have holes in the box section by the bonnet hinge. I have loads of photos showing bulkhead repairs in this area.

780F3F75-C40A-43DD-AA5C-399CBB203D8C.jpeg

Could you send me some photos of repairs in the box section please 

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Arthur

Bugger.  Just did a check with a bucket of water and it came pooring in though the bloower hole. So when you strip the car to let the rain show where the problem is. Do reassemble the black bulkhead cover that prevents the water pooring from the windscreen directly into the blower. Might be the roof is leak, but the dash isolation is wet from me being plain stupid. :blush:

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nixonmi16
8 hours ago, Callum said:

Could you send me some photos of repairs in the box section please 

 

98E1C651-E513-4A43-A9E3-8581E1868852.jpeg

2834DAAE-4DC0-440E-8120-3E124FB97A88.jpeg

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Arthur

139739306_3675368922542207_1689179262611139887180_3675369005875532_9211633687752

 

:(

 

Edited by Arthur

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Telf

+1 for leaking from the spot shown in the photos. Mine was like Swiss cheese in those areas. You can see pics on my restoration thread. Search Rust rust and more rust

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Arthur
1 hour ago, Telf said:

+1 for leaking from the spot shown in the photos. Mine was like Swiss cheese in those areas. You can see pics on my restoration thread. Search Rust rust and more rust

Yes, read it. It not so bad at mine. Only this and some small rust area's. But I have some welding to do that I want for myself. A proper rear arch enlargement for my fake Rallye skirts, now recently the roof to be welded shut. It's from the F$%king leaves that are always there. We have the same weather as you. But mine spent the first 25 years in France, so it's not too bad, I hope. Problem (challenge) is I'm an amateur welder at best and I have only tig. 

Edited by Arthur

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Telf

Its worth noting that in the scuttle panel area on either side is a 'pad' of sealant.  I found that below this sealant the metal had developed tiny rust holes.   when the area got suitably wet it leaked here. The holes could not been seen until all the sealant had been removed.

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Arthur

Well, been to it last evening. The bracket piece thing under the wiper motor is at the same spot as the steering coulomb bracket underneath. So it's a sandwich in that area. The upper bracket is from pic 2 no more. What do you think; is is necessary to make a new bracket for structural integrity?  

 

 

 

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Tom Fenton

Yes I would be putting it, or something to replace it, back.

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Arthur

Oké. Will have to design something new. Something with a better water passage ;)

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Arthur

It's not beautiful, but it's watertight. The brazing process is fine, but I just can't reach it. At least that will be a lot better with the roof. 

 

141424875_3687786764633756_7370953866374

 

140930318_3687788727966893_3462790560161

Edited by Arthur

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Arthur

This is a lot of work. Been to our local 205 guy Wednesday :D.

 

I've drilled all the rivet thingies out, and then drilled the spot welds inside out 3mm, and then outside in 6/7 mm. Lot of rust in the from beam. 

 

141380740_3690405917705174_2935722026256

 

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