Jump to content
  • Welcome to 205GTIDrivers.com!

    Hello dear visitor! Feel free to browse but we invite you to register completely free of charge in order to enjoy the full functionality of the website.

Sign in to follow this  
Gohn

Turbo Diesel Heat Exchanger Removal

Recommended Posts

Gohn

Always fond of the idea of a well ventilated, easy to access engine bay..

But the TD just packs a lot into the small space available

So I have removed both of the heat exchanges from the engine and would be interested to hear opinions on any possible downsides to doing so

The XUD7Turbo Diesel comes with two heat exchanges

One which attaches to the oil filter unit at the front of the block . This diverts coolant from the thermostat to heat the engine oil more quickly, and

The other one is built into the coolant flange attached to the bottom right rear of the block. This warms the diesel coming from the tank before sending it back out to the filter and diesel pump

Both seem to be entirely optional as neither the non-turbo D or the XUD9TD had them

As you can see from the first pic, its a whole lot simpler without the two extra coolant hoses, the heat exchanger and the mount to jam in the space under the alternator. Just one filter and a stubby little spindle into the block is the alternative I've gone with

I wasn't able to properly show the hose tangle caused by the rear heat exchanger but you can see its gunna be easier by comparing it to the simpler flange. Two less hoses in a tight spot

At present I'm still troubleshooting everything, leaks, temp sensors, electrics and listening for funny/not so funny noises so there's no test runs yet to even report

But I do reckon the diesel has been flowing thru to the pump more freely without the rear diversion to the heat exchanger

To remove the front one, you'll need to get the regular top hose shown in pic4, blank off the lower front thermostat pipe as shown in pic6, and scrounge yourself a normal short little oil filter spindle from any XU petrol or diesel engine

To remove the rear one, you'll need to get yourself the regular coolant flange first or just use the same one shown in pic2 and disconnect the extra diesel lines from it . I also found that the pipe outlets on pic3 flange are smaller so if connecting it up the smaller D coolant hoses might need to be obtained/fitted also.

 

 

 

 

 

tangle1.JPG

Elbow1.JPG

coolflange1.JPG

tophose.JPG

DT Thrmst.JPG

tangle5.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Ozymandis

The fuel heater/water manifolds fitted to all none turbo diesels here in Britain, up until the facelift of the XUD when they were fitted in the thermostat housing mounted later plastic fuel heaters/ filters.  Those later ones eventually harden their o rings (none standard thickness unobtainable) and lead to none starting and mysterious air ingress. They have a troublesome thermo valve in them that's the culprit. Your types better in the long run.

 

I consider it essential, 5 degrees Celsius and colder then the car hiccups and stalls until the fuel warms up. Or if You have a Lucas pump the pump rotor head sometimes seizes and scraps the pump, a common problem with bio fuels we use in our diesels.

Our lass has seized 2 Lucas pumps waiting to pull out of our road junction on autumn mornings.

 

The oil filter /water heat exchanger, hmm I never have checked the oil temperature but can see the sense in it.

 

A large car company driven by profit wouldn't waste a ha`penny on fitting something they don't consider essential.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Gohn

that's got me thinking plenty. mines a Lucas pump too

just sounds overall that the pumps DO like warm diesel, and DONT like cold diesel, and really dont like cold biodiesel (no plans on running that)

didn't really consider viscocity so important before

even though its hot here mostly year round, probly brave the rear tangle and connect the hoses to the rear diesel heat exchanger again

 

for the oil heat exchanger I wasn't sure if you could "see the sense in" peug putting one on or me removing it ?

 

still a bit unsure whether peugeot would have stuck the oil exchanger on if they shipped the XUD7 TD to australia.

think probly not cause there were the XUD9 TD's sold here and they dont have one. but I like the idea of warm oil for the turbo ..

may leave it off for now

 

i've seen pictures of the later filter problems you mention. with the thermostat remaining and the top hat ripped off and thrown away when the o-rings fail

an aftermarket filter is installed so you've got a thermostat, filtered diesel, but you're running with cold diesel

 

all peugeot needed to do was use standard size o-rings

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
SRDT

To make the 78hp XUD7T Peugeot simply used the 90hp XUD7TE with no intercooler so yes they are things that must be overkill.

Later they made a 75hp XUD9SD turbo engine with a mix of 92hp XUD9TE and cheaper 70hp XUD9A parts.

That being said on hot climate the oil cooler (and warmer until the whole engine is hot) was standard on all diesel, not just the turbo ones.

Without oil temp gauge you have no way to know if the oil is too hot, whith the oil cooler that's not a problem as hot oil means hot water and you have a water temp gauge.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Gohn

ahh, thanks

so the hot country diesel DID get the front heat exchanger

I was so keen to make the whole engine bay easier to work in and improve airflow...

but its not worth the risk of cooking a good little engine thats taken months to source/refurb/install

days where the temp is under 10 celsius are rare here, and getting rarer

whereas days of 30+ are almost normal now

back on goes the front heat exchanger

thanks for all the thoughts and knowledge

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
SRDT

On the 205 the main problem is the really big radiator, that's why the alternator and oil cooler are fitted this way.

The 309 has the same engine but there is more space on front so even with a radiator that is 10mm thicker it's all standard.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

×