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Philpooma

Rear 1/4 to sill overlap repair panel

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Philpooma

I’m after some advise please.

I am about to start a light resto on my 1.6 Gti. I’m not a stranger to restos having just recently finished a full nut and bolt restoration on a Clio Williams, however this is my first 205. I have to say that the 205 is so much easier to work on, lots more room and so much less complicated, and so far very few rusted bolts that have to be cut off.

 

Back to my question. I have looked at loads of restos on this forum, with lots of really useful info however I have not yet seen anyone use a repair panel that includes the area shown on the attached photo, its this overlap that sits in the door jamb that I’m looking for, can anyone help please? It will be hard to re create so if I can buy a repair panel with this in place it will be very useful, thanks 

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D3C62125-DCDF-4AE5-8F23-F5D4F3CAB9B2.jpeg

A8FB05C9-4D06-4605-B4D2-06EB59520C7E.jpeg

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pugfrank

Following, this is the next area to tackle on my 205, once car returns from garage after MOT!

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Telf

that doesn't look bad- I thought mine was bad when I started the refurb and it looked far shabbier than yours. as it turns out the rust was just surface related and didn't need any real effort to fix

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Philpooma

Its the other side that has more corrosion, I just took the image of the near side as it was more accessable at the time. As you suggest, this side is fine. I have learned that you need to check inside the rear 1/4 panel to properly evaluate the corrosion in this area.

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artois7

Mine has totally gone here - big hole. Following...

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Philpooma

Done most of the work so that I can drop the engine and gearbox next weekend.

I’m going to try and drop the engine, gearbox, subframe and maybe struts out in one go.

 

0AA03524-BE5C-4EF0-83A4-ECF5EDCC5E96.thumb.jpeg.72246ac778d3a8f9460509b06a04a1ca.jpeg

 

Car positioned on the ramp so that we can crack on next weekend

 

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Been pleasantly surprised by the condition of the car.

Expected to find some nasty surprises, but so far all has been good....

 

Edited by Philpooma
Mis type

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Tom Fenton

For what it’s worth, dropping it all together just gives you an unmanageable lump with s*it access to things to then split them.

 

Drop the subframe first, comes off easily. Next split shafts and legs and remove. Finally drop the engine and box together.

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Philpooma

Thanks for the advise Tom, appreciated. I’ll follow your suggestion.

Just for clarity, what do you mean by “Legs”?

 

 

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Philpooma

Interestingly, the Haynes manual is very sparce when it came to engine and gearbox removal instructions.

Not very step by step.

With guidance like “Disconnect wiring from engine” - Not very step by step

It didnt even mention discinnecting the drive shafts and their proposed method was removal from the top:huh:

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Philpooma

Dropped out the engine and gearbox this morning, as per Toms advise, dropped the subframe 1st, then enging and box.

We undid everything and then lifted the car away from the unit.

 

Lots of spiders webs and rubbish on the struts, a result of being off the road for the last 12 years.

86A21336-9F36-4088-BCA7-BB58E45957EC.thumb.jpeg.156aaac0f13be422c2928a0de49cc4f3.jpeg

 

The suspension turrets were pretty clean

CF7664F7-7593-4ECE-901E-4A990C266CE7.thumb.jpeg.f37ac455fc2f6f0d6192a534b133f63c.jpeg

 

Body on the way up, no issues with the engine swinging around on a hoist.

F96C0E1B-0FA2-4F31-A72C-9C167C3B106E.thumb.jpeg.898532d21cb39254c12113ae97b70170.jpeg

 

 

 

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Philpooma

E80EEE2D-F1E0-4B1C-8DD8-328003E63237.thumb.jpeg.1583e6b76d728850a1ad7992b94ce1b0.jpeg

 

 

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Next job is to get the engine and box split so that I can start some work on the engine

FB3BCBB5-7A74-4875-A608-2ADD93A6D97D.thumb.jpeg.b7f86780451459285ac81e56f3a55e80.jpeg

 

 

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