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boldy205

Whiteline ARB

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boldy205

Hi, been looking at uprated 309 rear ARB, and have tried looking for reviews on the whiteline item, with fairly negitive reviews 

 So if they are so bad, why, and can anyone recommend a supplier of an internally fitted, uprated ARB please?

Thanks

Matt

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dobboy

I’ve got a an adjustable whiteline rear bar on my Mini and it’s been great, although the mini’s bar is external as standard so it was just a case of remove and replace. Very good quality, still looks like new after probably over 2 years.

 

iiirc there is a place called torque performance or performance torque or something similar who make uprated 205 bars. 

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Tom Fenton

Cheapest solution is buy a 306 gti6 24mm rear arb and shorten it, weld the end plate on one end. 

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SweetBadger

Have run one previously on a standard 1.6 beam and it made a noticeable difference. No complaints from me.

 

I run one on the race car in addition to a 24mm arb - provides some adjust-ability.

 

The only thing that is a bit crap is the way it attaches to the trailing arms: the brackets are a faf to get on, and although effective it looks like a bit of a bodge.

 

I've drilled and tapped the back of the stub axles for an M10 bolt, and run rose jointed links from the bar which are bolted directly into the back of the stub axle.

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boldy205

Always was a bit wary on that Tom.  Just the thought of the weld letting go could spell disaster.  Thinking on it, did someone re spline them?

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Batfink

I've been selling Whiteline for years with generally no issues. They dont make anything for Peugeot though. What are people bolting on?
Was it Glebe Engineering who make decent ARB's??
 

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SweetBadger

 

They used to make one for the 205 - bolts on to the cross tube with U bolts then around each trailing arm: 

jse_P1040949.jpg

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Tom Fenton
1 hour ago, boldy205 said:

Always was a bit wary on that Tom.  Just the thought of the weld letting go could spell disaster.  Thinking on it, did someone re spline them?

Disaster is a bit strong, the anti roll bar doesn’t hold the beam together at all. For the record I’ve been running bars like this for 6+ years. It works a treat and if you can modify it yourself like I can, it’s a £40 24mm anti roll bar.

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boldy205

I get what you are saying Tom,  think I'd just trust a physical connection than a weld, but each to their own. 

 

I like the idea of something adjustable,  just can't find a white line in 309 fitment. I habe however seen Pug1off do a selection of 309 ARBs, seem cheap at under 200 quid delivered, anyone had experienced with these? I have heard some are cheap/sub standard?

 

Thanks for the replies!

 

 

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Anthony

If it's welded properly with cleaned surfaces and decent penetration, I'd be surprised if you snap it.

 

Even if you do snap the weld, you'll know about it first corner you come to as the car will handle like a wallowy, understeering mess - the beam isn't going to fall apart.

 

I've got what I believe is an 205 ARB that Tom welded in my garage and I'd happily trust it - more so infact than some of the aftermarket made ARB splines that sometimes aren't the best fit (indeed, I think it was you that I sold a cheap 309 ARB with slightly loose aftermarket splines to a few years back wasn't it?)

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boldy205

My main concern would be mid corner, fully loaded up and it snaps, upsetting the car and sending it off the track, maybe I'm just worrying for no reason.

Yes it was me who you sold the bar to, I didn't find it to be enough of an upgrade, hence I'm on the look out for something thicker, no probs with it though! 

As you say, some if the new items have bad press, maybe I should consider the 306 bar. Just need to pop my one out to check the thickness.

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jackherer

A Whiteline bar is probably about as likely to come loose as a welded bar is to snap TBH!

 

I've got a Whiteline bar and as already said they aren't attached in the best way possible. Although I like the sound of @SweetBadger's rose joints going directly onto the trailing arms, some pics of that would be nice!

 

I'm 99.9% sure you can use the 205 Whiteline bar on a 309 beam with no problems, the extra width is taken up by the flex in the polybushes without putting them at a particularly adverse angle IIRC.

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Anthony
13 hours ago, boldy205 said:

Just need to pop my one out to check the thickness.

 

If you're still running the one you bought off me, it was 22mm.

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SweetBadger
13 hours ago, jackherer said:

Although I like the sound of @SweetBadger's rose joints going directly onto the trailing arms, some pics of that would be nice!

I’ll get some pics next time I’m up at the garage - might be a while though, recovering from a back op, so currently banned from going near the 205! :(

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boldy205

Thanks Anthony,  that rings a bell. 

Guess I can go for a 24mm bar for the dry and the 22 for wet, therefore keeping the adjustability technically. 

Thanks forv the replies all!

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SweetBadger

 

Was up at the garage today so grabbed a quick pic:

146B5EFF-B109-446D-8F56-799960F356D6.jpeg

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jackherer

Thanks, it looks like they are at a better angle there as well as being more solidly attached.

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petert

I'm fairly sure Whiteline is an Aussie product! I wouldn't buy one though. It's been my experience that it's better to upgrade the torsion bars first. I'm currently getting a 24mm bar resplined, mostly for convenience. It's tight in my garage and I won't be able to withdraw the ARB. As the bar is made from medium carbon steel, you need to pre-heat the bar before welding and then post heat, for best results.

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SweetBadger

Never tried a 24mm arb on a std beam so can’t compare, but from experience the whiteline arb worked very well with an otherwise std beam - bit academic now anyway, as they’re no longer available for the 205, so you’d have to go out of your way to get one.

 

Currently run 25mm tb’s with a 24mm arb plus the whiteline to provide adjustability (not that i’ve ever found time to try it on different settings!).

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