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Telf

Clutch arm pin removal

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Telf

Can anybody give me any advice on the best way to remove the pin on the clutch arm so I can get the bushes  changed!

 

Thanks

20180420_155407.jpg

Edited by Telf

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welshpug

its an M7 thread, the dealer way is a slide hammer attachment, I have had some success with adding a small section of tube and winding an M7 nut down it, though the threads aren't that strong really.

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Miles

To carry on from the engine post, I always cut these off as it's allot quicker time wise when the customer is paying to replace it with new, I tend to fit the 306 pin thou as it's easier to get out providing it's greased before fitting

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Tom Fenton

If you are careful you can drill the pin out and then draw the arm off with a puller. You need a good eye to drill the pin out square though without deviating. The arm will also likely be a tight fit on the shaft and need a good puller to get it off.

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allanallen

Ages since I’ve done one but I’m sure I’ve always just drifted them out in the past?! 

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welshpug

the later smooth pins with the spring tend to come out easy but the earlier type have a very slight taper near the threaded end and go in very tight.

 

access to drift them out is not great, you cant get a straight hit.

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Tom Fenton
12 minutes ago, allanallen said:

Ages since I’ve done one but I’m sure I’ve always just drifted them out in the past?! 

You’ve drilled one out with me stood next to you!

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allanallen
5 minutes ago, Tom Fenton said:

You’ve drilled one out with me stood next to you!

Better memory than me! 

 

Insert tom Fenton hammer joke here.....

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Tom Fenton

Well obviously we tried the hammer first to no avail

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allanallen

I was possibly making a point about not using a hammer on that particular gearbox :P

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Telf

thanks guys, yesterday I tried putting a couple of nuts on it to lock them and then used a hammer drill action to persuade it- that didn't work...

 

then I put a set of mole grips on it and that just knackered the threads...

 

then I set about it with a drift and a hammer- but the access is crap and I didn't fully commit because I didn't want to damage the case.

 

Last option today is drill it out I think then failing that cut the whole thing off.

 

What a crap design.

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jackherer
6 hours ago, Telf said:

What a crap design.

I take it you haven't seen how a BE1 works? A BE3 is a brilliant design in comparison!

  • Haha 1

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Telf

no mate I haven't - its still a bonk design.

 

I used my engineering know-how and resorted to a hammer, punch and junior hacksaw, got it out in about an hour LoL

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jackherer

The BE3 clutch mechanism was designed as an improvement to fit the pre existing BE1 case design so they were working with some hard limitations, you can actually retrofit a BE3 setup onto a BE1 case! Peugeot did that themselves with Mi16 BE1 boxes. That is why maintenance is awkward, the casing was an existing design that they had to develop around.

 

As it fixed so many problems inherent to the BE1 I stand by what I said. I'll show you a BE1 sometime and you'll agree when you see it!

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welshpug

the original iteration of the be1 was much like the be4 iirc, cable directly to the end of the arm.

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jackherer

OK so the dowel that can just fall on the floor came later?

 

The other problem is the balljoint for the arm inside the box with rivets holding it on that fall off.

 

And also the arm the cable goes onto fatiguing and bending over time.

 

I've had all of those happen more than once with BE1 205s and BXs but I've never had a problem with a BE3 clutch release mechanism that I recall other than one snapped cable.

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welshpug

the pin that falls off should have a spring to stop it falling off ;)

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jackherer

Really? There is a spring to hold in part number 2120 46?

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welshpug

yes.

 

FNtMhDpD.jpg

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farmer

They are only listed on the 309 page for some reason 

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jackherer

I've never even seen one of those! Most BE1 cars I've had were BXs rather than 205s/309s but I've worked on loads of them for other people on here over the years. Presumably the ones that weren't just thrown away by mechanics that couldn't see the point of them eventually rusted away and fell off?

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farmer

They don't last very long

 

I have about 6 or 7 new ones and nobody ever asks 

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jackherer

I always lockwired the pin to something so it would just be hanging there if anything happened.

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Callum
On 4/20/2018 at 9:37 PM, welshpug said:

its an M7 thread, the dealer way is a slide hammer attachment, I have had some success with adding a small section of tube and winding an M7 nut down it, though the threads aren't that strong really.

Any idea in what pitch the thread is? I'm. Not with the box but going to try and get a m7 nut tomorrow 

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