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jackherer

Emerald M3DK cutting out while driving due to usb to serial adaptor fault

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Simes

Funnily enough the AA said it could Be fuel.

I’m going up in the loft later to dig out the old laptop to check everything else.

B068419E-B655-41B8-971D-DB9FFCF8574D.jpeg

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Simes

Knackered fuel pump, all resolved.

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Simes

Not true, it died after a bit of celebratory WOT on the way home from the MOT.

Same AA man as before. Car only wants to idle any throttle it dies.

i revved it for ages and it felt it was on a limited, then it finally gave in and fixed itself. Bugger.

Now thinking injectors aren’t letting enough fuel in, all the mechanical checks are ok so suspect it’s the ECU.

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jackherer

Damn.

 

Does the TPS read OK on the laptop?

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Simes

Yep, all values are good today and before.

Injector duration is the one I need to check when there are issues.

I’m going to test the injectors again but I don’t think they are the cause.

The car literally cut out with no warning, ignition remained in ie. no lights came up on dash.

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jackherer

Re-reading your post it sounds like it's probably got hotter due to your post MOT WOT which could have triggered it. Maybe the coilpack is on its way out?

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Simes

Post WOT lasted 4 seconds up to the redline in two gears then died.

Coilpack is 40 miles old and not from ECP!

 

Keep them coming.....

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jackherer

It could be the ignition amp overheating based on those symptoms, unfortunately it is internal to the ECU if you have an Emerald...

 

You need to go back to basics before condemning the ECU though, first check the main ECU/injector relay and fuel pump relay have power on their outputs and don't lose power when you jiggle the connectors around etc. Then the primary inputs to the ECU are the crank sensor (which is probably OK if it idles), the TPS and the ECU temp sensor. You've already confirmed the TPS is good and presumably you would have noticed if the CTS was reading wrongly at the same time. If the inputs are OK move to the outputs, e.g. fuel and spark, probably spark I would say based on the symptoms.

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Simes

I rang Dave Walker this morning, imagine my surprise when he said he could dial into my ECU.

Got home today and set the whole thing up.

He checked the TPS value and whilst it works, we found it at a lower value than it should be. A few open/closes of the throttle and it went back to what it should be. We were lucky to find it at that value.

Possible dodgy spot on the TPS so have adjusted it mechanically and reset it in the software. 

On reflection this makes a lot of sense of the issues.

Lets see now!

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jackherer

I assume he is remotely accessing your laptop? It would make me uncomfortable if the ECUs had some sort of remote access built in!

 

What  brand of TPS are you using? I've had a couple of issues with mine, the first one started flickering between load sites during mapping, John said he'd seen it before and it doesn't affect running but it does make mapping very difficult. I bought a new one from them during mapping but it too has recently failed mechanically, it made the throttle stiff and it occasionally stuck open a little bit. I went back to the old one that flickers between sites and that seems ok in use. I might look at other brands though, they don't seem to be very reliable given the amount they cost.

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Simes

Yes, remote access through my laptop!

I’ve got a ‘Penny and Giles’ hall effect one. Contactless so I’m surprised it had an issue.

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Simes

Fitted a new TPS today as the other one was still causing issues ......all good so far. 

I called Penny and Giles the other day after Dave Walker said he had had lots of problems with them. They said that there were issues with the ones made before 2013. Mine was bought in 2012!

Just been for a hack in the dark - scary as I'm so used to xenons!

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