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Telf

[Body_Work] Rust Rust And More Rust!

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Telf

 

Now that the car is stripped I'm thinking about making it a bit more reliable. As the looming is all out I am considering installing an emerald ECU in place of the stock setup. Cost aside whats peoples opinions of doing this? I haven't fully researched it yet but i resume that alot of the original ignition system would be redundant, hence my thoughts of doing it now whilst the car is in bits.

 

Any thoughts muchly appreciated 

 

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jackherer

You want to rip all the ignition stuff out, throw it away, then fit a wasted spark coil pack with no moving parts.

 

Your best bet is to download the Emerald manual and look at the wiring diagrams - http://www.emeraldm3d.com/media/software-manuals/Emerald K3 Manual v057.pdf - look for the distributorless config, they can be made to work with distributors but it makes no sense to keep the moving parts.

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Telf

kieran , its you that got me thinking about this... I just cant decide if to do it or not!

 

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jackherer

Depends if you want to drive it or look at it :P

  • Haha 1

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Telf

look at it..yeah that's definitely my plan.. or B!

 

so if i fit an emerald ECU i can get rid of the distributor, Ignition amp,coil?!? original ECU, tacho relay and the 

AFM right?

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jackherer

Yes all that goes in the bin, along with the SAD.

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Telf

i could gut the AFM though and just use it as a air pass through so it would look original- less the dizzy obviously.

 

That might be ok- its not as if I'm ever going to sell it once it is finished.  

 

So the emerald ECU should improve performance a bit as well ? or not much difference on a standard 8V? The only extra engine work has been a 3 angle cut on the head so I'm hardly going mad. If it can make somewhere near original figures id be happy.

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jackherer

You might be able to make a hole in the bottom of a distributor cap, chop the terminals off, then pass custom leads from a coil pack through it. The rubber boots would disguise the cut down terminals and you could have a dummy king lead going to a standard coil. Or just chuck it all in the bin and drive it ;)

 

I don't know if it'll make much more peak power but it'll drive so much better and be much more reliable.

 

 

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Telf

ill probably keep all the bits because I'm weird like that.  Now the real question...

 

Can my budget stretch anymore? :unsure:

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Leslie green

It got to 247k on the original bits so it can't have been that unreliable , I say keep it nice and original and spend the monies on making it mint .

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Telf

No it wasn't unreliable at all. Only broke down once in 7 years. I'm torn as to which way to go to be honest. 

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allye

Didn’t realise this was you! You got the bulkhead insulation for me, yes it very deepest Wiltshire, almost geographically central. 

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Telf

yes mate it is I!

 

I thought it was you but wasn't sure

 

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Telf

So far total cost to get to the stage of fully stripped, welded and (almost) ready for paint £900. That's including a few new parts - Wheel bearings, steering arm and all the paint paid for.

 

About 2 months until I'm expecting to see it pushed out from the workshop. The bills are coming at approx. £450/month so still a few quid to go!

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Telf

Finally after many many months....

 

Engine bay and scuttle area ready for first paint.

 

Repair to scuttle panel complete- no more wet footwells! yes!

 

 

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Telf

And initial coat on the engine bay

 

 

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Telf

Hubs etc back from the cleaners, drying and waiting  a fresh coat of paint

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Telf

Quite a lot has happened this week.

 

The car has ended up on a spit so the underside can be completely stripped , any last bits of rust caught and then prepped and sprayed

 

 

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Telf

In other news the subframe and all the running gear has had a clean and fresh coat of paint

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Telf

Work on refurbishment of the rear beam has also commenced. Full strip down, new parts and a respray.

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Telf

And in the last month ...............

 

Absolutely no progress at all.

 

Well I guess A bit - I paid out £500 for all the parts to refurb the beam, new brakes discs, pads, flexi hoses, brake pipes etc.

 

But body work wise nothing has happened as the workshop is now moving a mile up the road.. maybe I will see the car by June

 

**Sigh**

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Telf

After a short work stop the pug now has the headliner removed and sunroof out. The rear weather strip is slightly worse for wear. Are they still available does anybody know?

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Edited by Telf

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Telf

Paint prepisode has begun. Surprised to discover that it hasn't had a respray in the past. I was convinced it had!

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Gaz205

I can't believe this still hasn't been finished by them. The rear strip was ok on mine, would a cut from a door deal grip well enough? I know it's quite hidden and may give a tighter seal 

 

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Leslie green

Good to see its ready for paint :D

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