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Anthony
11 hours ago, Telf said:

I presume I need a new chain though but I'm not sure

 

Yes a larger oil pump drive sprocket will need a matching longer chain.

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Telf

After about another 500 or miles since changing the oil I haven't had a repeat of the oil pressure light illumination although the gauge at idle still sits just above the red mark. 

 

The engine has started to feel quite free and is revving very freely . It feels like it's loosened up somewhat. 

 

As detailed elsewhere I've been back and forth to Emerald afew times trying to get a MAP that produces a reasonable Air fuel ratio on a wideband lamda. After a few months of pain and more money spent I think it's now as good as it is going to get.

 

The car now longer smells like a fuel/air bomb when it's sat idling so that's a win. 

 

Disappointingly the bloody thing has now sprung a coolant leak which I am hoping is just a pipe weeping. I will chase it up once I get a warm(ish) day!

 

My attention is now turning to doing something with the original engine that's still sat in the garage. I'm torn between building it or just getting rid of everything and selling the car before it starts to deteriorate. It's already got a carpark dink in the door and is starting to look dirty ... It's enough to make you wonder why you bothered!

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Telf

I spotted a weep of coolant a couple of days ago and investigated it today. It quickly turned into a full blown leak!

 

The coolant gantry at the back of the block was weeping from the blanking cap at the end. I stupidly fitted the plastic type when I fitted the engine. I figured undo it and loose the coolant ... Or tighten it up and see if it will seal. It didn't it snapped.

 

 

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Telf

So I'm using my time at work wisely and prepping a metal replacement!

USER_SCOPED_TEMP_DATA_MSGR_PHOTO_FOR_UPLOAD_1575554718291.jpeg

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Telf

Cheers Tom. I am just going to fit the metal one I think. It should fit as far as I'm aware?

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Telf

I'm using  Baker BM hoses so I think they will fit this metal part? Unless anyone knows differently?

USER_SCOPED_TEMP_DATA_MSGR_PHOTO_FOR_UPLOAD_1575560141272.jpeg

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Tom Fenton

There are 2 variations of lower hose for exactly this reason. Put it simply you need a plastic housing or the other silicone hose to suit the alloy one.

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Leslie green

Paul dailying a car as nice as this especially in winter is just a waste a mate , get it in the garage till summer and get yourself a carpark battle wagon for the daily grind. Hope the coolant leak is easy sorted 

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Telf

Leslie. I don't have a garage! I'm actually not driving it in the clag and salt , my 207 is taking that honour. The problem is the 205 is just sitting in the damp so every 3 or 4 days I have to fire it up and drive it round the block until it's warm. Not ideal but not alot else I can do really

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Telf

I could do that. Seems a bit extreme. I really view it as a machine that should be used , it's not a show car by any means. If I put it in a cocoon I don't think I'd bother getting it out again as it's a faff. As it is now if the roads dry I can just zoom to the shops and have a run up and down the A12 near my house. I've actually got a container on a local farm but again I think of it goes in there it's going to fester and not be touched for months. 

 

It's difficult to decide what to do. I was looking at a post on Facebook earlier. Someone proudly showing off his immaculate 205 that spends all it's time in the garage, has done 300miles in a year but apparently he likes looking at it. Each to his own but whats the bloody point in that!

 

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welshpug

its more a shame to leave it sitting, just drive it!

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Leslie green

Drive it in Summer like the vast majority of classic owners do that way it won't deteriorate much the next few months won't do it any favours  and its as near a show car as you can get .After all the money you put into it its clearly more than just a car to you or you would just have the 207 and scrapped the 205 when it had rot in it. , yes they need driven but not though winter .

The container might be a bit damp unless it has some vents in it so might not be ideal but if its that or out in all weathers its probably better .

If I ever get my gti back on the road it certainly won't see any winters , with my xr2 now its summer use only for the last decade, I do abut 2k a year in it and rust etc isn't an issue anymore plus you look forward to spring getting them back out again and winter passes fairly quickly it seems.

Edited by Leslie green

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Telf
25 minutes ago, welshpug said:

its more a shame to leave it sitting, just drive it!

Mei,

 

I do drive it but not this week the roads in Suffolk are clagged with salt and s*it. My 207 is so dirty after 4 days that you can't red the number plate(well I cleaned it today) but I'm not taking the 205 out in that. It's done about 2000 miles since it passed the MOT in June

Edited by Telf

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opticaltrigger
3 hours ago, Telf said:

I do drive it but not this week the roads in Suffolk are clagged with salt and s*it. My 207 is so dirty after 4 days that you can't red the number plate

Yes, I get that Paul. Sounds very similar to rural Somerset.

 

O.T.

 

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Telf

On a different note does anybody have a 1.9 gearbox in good working order for sale?

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Telf

Well I thought it would be a simple job but no... Bottom bolt head rounded. Couldn't release it or get grips on it due to the shape of the part. Ended up drilling the plastic out, snapping the part off and then removing with a mole grip. Bloody cars!!!

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Telf

small update 

 

3000 miles since rebuild, still ok - looking forward to summer. feels like its loosening up some now.

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Telf

Damn this car ! It's definitely the cars fault. Speeding ticket 84mph on the A14.

 

But seriously now I've got a few weeks off work due to Coronvirus I think I'm going to start taking my original engine apart and see if it's worth fixing . Might as well use the time constructively!

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Deantracy17
On 1/21/2018 at 5:43 PM, Telf said:

So when this thread first started the original engine was a 1.9 but it was scrap- the block I'm using now is from a 1.6. Luckily I kept everything from both engines - having dug the other parts out the shed it seems the sprocket is completely different

 

The spacer is part of the sprocket which itself is much smaller.

 

Does anybody know if this is going to matter in any way?

 

 

t7.jpg

t8.jpg

I am rebuilding my engine and have the lower configuration. Looking at the Peugeot data, there is a spacer as shown below (item 9). Pretty sure I do not have this item. Does anyone have an ideas if it is needed?

E2C71C5E-9882-41A8-8102-C531A6F75CE6.png

B4AADD4C-1FDB-46AE-92BE-3DA100FB31BC.png

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Telf

Not on my build.  What engine is it?

 

Probably  best to start a thread with all the relevant information .

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Telf

Ah ok I see now. Looking at the picture you quoted from my build the setup in the background has a separate spacer, the one in the fore ground has it built into the oil pump sprocket. You should have one or the other depending the type of block you have.

 

My original engine had the separate spacer but it didn't fit on the replacement block.  

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Telf

The item number 9 is the seperate spacer

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Deantracy17
16 minutes ago, Telf said:

The item number 9 is the seperate spacer

Cheers telf. Used your 8v rebuild a lot during my rebuild. I’m nearly there. I’ll take a photo of the issue I have. I think there is a separate spacer. The sprocket with spacer combined is the oil seal. I was wondering what stops the sprocket from moving around during operation. Maybe the chain keeps it in place?  My engine is a xu5ja. Hopefully it will all go back together ok. 
 

also bought some goetze rings. The top two have “top” engraved on them, but the oil ring does not?  I assume that this goes either way?  Can you remember when you did yours?

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