Compbrake Lower Arms

[daz.e.t.a 1]

hi

as above anyone used them any good?

thanks

darren

[allanallen 528 2 Cars]

Do a search, they're s*it

[daz.e.t.a 1]

hi

I did that after posting, shocking!

darren

[jdt 6]

What do you want rose jointed wishbones for? If Forest rallying then only original type PTS ones with M20 balljoints are suitable - available from AB motorsport

Cheaper ones are suitable for trackdays and sprints

The multi adjustable ones from compbrake or similar are impossible to set up for the average person.

There is a new seller on ebay (hendersonengineering) with rose jointed wishbones , I enquired and he uses a imperial rose joint to keep costs down and thought they looked good for the money. No connection with seller or experience of the seller

[allanallen 528 2 Cars]

........only original type PTS ones with M20 balljoints are suitable - available from AB motorsport

Cheaper ones are suitable for trackdays and sprints

 

What a ridiculous statement?!

 

The AB rose joints are a 16mm joint on a 20mm thread and cost an f'ing fortune. Countless people are running arms with cheapo 3/4 x 3/4 joints from various different fabricators with no problems whatsoever.

 

IMO the hendersonengineering arms are completely missing the point of what rose jointed arms are about. Yes you get the adjustability but the main reasoning for jointed arms is to get a strong, solid connection between the hub and the arm as the standard clamp set up is not up to any heavy abuse. The normal (PTS style) method with a drop pin actually clamps the joint to the hub rather than relying on the pinch bolt.

The henderson arms pretty pointless in my eyes.

Edited April 15, 2014 by allanallen

[jdt 6]

Did you read the first line of my post before your reply? The bit you quoted conveniently omits it and changes the context of what I said.

 

If you use cheap arms with 3/4 joints in the FORESTS then the rose joints bend easier than a 309 wishbone. That is why Peugeot used a 20mm thread.

 

People normally fit adjustable arms to give some negative camber which means the thread on the rose joint going to be wound out a bit where it goes into the wishbone and is the weak point.

 

Agreed the Henderson engineering arms do not benefit from clamping the rose joint to the hub but it does make them a lot easier to fit and adjust. The standard hub clamp is fine for most applications - it is people overtightening the pinch bolt that caused the hub to oval.

 

What do you suggest as an alternative to the AB Motorsport ones?

[allanallen 528 2 Cars]

I did indeed read it yes, I'll try and edit the rest back in sorry. 3/4" is neigh on 20mm and well on top of the job.

When you say cheap arms do you mean modified non genuine arms or cheaply modified arms? Ie someone with a stick welder in his shed.

Forest cars run with very little camber on the front so if joints are bending because there's too much exposed thread the arms have been made incorrectly.

 

It's not just over tightening the hubs that knackers the clamps. They can stretch and deform through continued heavy abuse. I've had issues myself and I've repaired many hubs from customers whom are very confident with a torque wrench.

 

Moving from a pinch bolt mounted bottom arm to a properly clamped rose jointed arm makes the car feel noticeably more 'solid'

[jdt 6]

Thanks,

 

The benefit of the M20 ones is a bit more than the dimensions suggest because the pitch is very fine so the core diameter is 2 or 3mm greater in diameter.

The rosejoints themselves are best part of £100 each and very high quality. I can honestly say I have never had a problem with the PTS ones.

 

From personal experience the cheap 3/4 ones are a different story, new ones with sloppy balls, tight ones that become sloppy in a few hundred miles, ones that bend when you see a bump. I cant remember the details of the wishbones I have used but sure they would have been modified genuine arms. I have never used any I would be happy to recommend. This was using non adjustable top mounts, adjustable ones would allow you to minimise amount of thread wound out.

 

If you know of a good source of cheaper arms with good quality rosejoints then I would be interested.

[allanallen 528 2 Cars]

The pitch of m20x1.5 and a 3/4unf-16 is very similar, there's less than 1mm difference in the minor diameter of the threads too.

I feel cheap rose joints have come on some what since you used them last. I've given my current £12 a piece joints absolute death, including crashing and they're still like new, all they've received is a lazy squirt of oil on occasion.

 

There's a guy posted on here a few times that sells arms at around half the price of ABs I'm sure if you search you'll find a link.

[Nathanlee 1]

hi

as above anyone used them any good?

thanks

darren

 

I'd feel bad selling mine to a metal dealer. They could well have killed me the way they failed. Was pure luck it happened where it did. Cost me two new wishbones, a driveshaft, and some modded 306 hubs from the honourable Allanallen. (well recommended service, by the way).

 

I don't know if it's a design fault or a a bodge fitting them, but three of the rose joint bolt lock nuts had become loose. Eventually the nearside outer rose joint pulled itself out of the wishbone thread. Rose joint bolt is fine - wishbone has no thread left. The wheel flew off 90 degrees out of the arch, stopped by the now bent wing and pulling out a drive shaft then breaking the cv joint in the process. There was a sticker on the car "the lion ain't no pussy." I couldn't pick that thing off quick enough as I was waiting for the breakdown truck with every other effing cyclist telling me my wheel had come off.

 

Still, I'm sure it's an excellent product, and something that happened in the life of mine degraded them somehow. Of course.

[GilesW 41]

 

I'd feel bad selling mine to a metal dealer. They could well have killed me the way they failed. Was pure luck it happened where it did. Cost me two new wishbones, a driveshaft, and some modded 306 hubs from the honourable Allanallen. (well recommended service, by the way).

 

I don't know if it's a design fault or a a bodge fitting them, but three of the rose joint bolt lock nuts had become loose. Eventually the nearside outer rose joint pulled itself out of the wishbone thread. Rose joint bolt is fine - wishbone has no thread left. The wheel flew off 90 degrees out of the arch, stopped by the now bent wing and pulling out a drive shaft then breaking the cv joint in the process. There was a sticker on the car "the lion ain't no pussy." I couldn't pick that thing off quick enough as I was waiting for the breakdown truck with every other effing cyclist telling me my wheel had come off.

 

Still, I'm sure it's an excellent product, and something that happened in the life of mine degraded them somehow. Of course.

 

What grade thread lock did you use?

[Nathanlee 1]

 

What grade thread lock did you use?

 

I didn't fit them.

[Kobayashi 35 2 Cars]

I stumbled across compbrake 'reinforced' but otherwise stock looking wishbones lately and TBH i did feel tempted. However, of course I tried a search on this trusted forum first

Results where pretty discouraging to say the least... There seems to be consent that compbrake wishbones, generally speaking, are no good, and there are even reports of catastrophic failures. 
But actually most of them refer to race cars, adjustable control arms and/or 309 wishbones on 205 cars, while I'm just interested in the '205 reinforced OEM' variant. Also, the reports that I found are at least 6 years old.

Are there any recent, more positive experiences or even recommendations? If not, what could be good alternatives?
I'm tired of quickly worn ebay wishbones and found the original peugeot wishbones to be the longest lasting ones, so far. I did not touch them for the last 10 years and I'd prefer something similar with the next pair of wishbones if I replace them now.
I am aware that one could just replace the inner mounting bushes, but afaik not the outer one.