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amusingadam

Rear Beam And Engine Mounts

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Mac Crash

the Fork bush is best renewed these days, a Std one is more than good enough and stiff enough when new, I have them listed here, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Peugeot-205-GTi-GTi-6-Mi16-Engine-Rear-Engine-Fork-Torque-bush-/350847229657?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item51b01fded9

 

I have the Hard rubber lower mount too, I try and avoid words like Group 'N' as it's all ******** just to get more money from people. A uprated part is just that (Rant over)

 

The mounts all come from the same supplier, Vibra Technics

 

Forgot about your shop, kinda new here, checking it out now ;)

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Miles

Not everything is listed in there yet

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Anthony

I would personally go for the original rubber fork bush (as Miles sells) as the solid one that BakerBM do is a bit hardcore for a roadcar (IMO, at least).

 

Again, no real need for the complete set of Group N mounts for a road car, especially with an 8v engine, and having them fitted does dramatically increase NVH in the cabin which isn't really what you want on a road car. Uprated lower mount sorts out the excessive engine movement as you come on and off the throttle (which in turn is causing your manifold to move and touch the shell/subframe) and then keep the others standard, replacing them if needs be. That will make a nice road car, keeping engine movement in check without making everything inside rattle and vibrate.

 

Just be careful if you're replacing standard mounts, as some of the pattern parts out there are utter rubbish, far too soft even when new.

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Mac Crash

I would personally go for the original rubber fork bush (as Miles sells) as the solid one that BakerBM do is a bit hardcore for a roadcar (IMO, at least).

 

Again, no real need for the complete set of Group N mounts for a road car, especially with an 8v engine, and having them fitted does dramatically increase NVH in the cabin which isn't really what you want on a road car. Uprated lower mount sorts out the excessive engine movement as you come on and off the throttle (which in turn is causing your manifold to move and touch the shell/subframe) and then keep the others standard, replacing them if needs be. That will make a nice road car, keeping engine movement in check without making everything inside rattle and vibrate.

 

Just be careful if you're replacing standard mounts, as some of the pattern parts out there are utter rubbish, far too soft even when new.

 

These are my intentions exactly, replace the "often overlooked" fork bush with one from Miles and the lower bush although quite expensive from Miles, with all due respect... can't see this bush sold separately in his shop, only comes with the alloy casing, for sure this saves ease of fitting but I can do this myself, as WP says, it can be done by freezing the bush and heating the casing... so would be good if I could just buy the bush... I know what I need now so thanks for all your info...

 

Agreed, on the top and gearbox mounts, no need to go to harder spec on these as it is the lower bush that takes the brunt of the acceleration/deacceleration forces that generate the movement and exhaust knocking... I'll check their general condition once the lower bushes are fitted and see if they need attention.

 

On a similar note, a mate who owned his phase 1 1.9GTi from new had the same problem with his Magnex manifold/exhaust... he cured it by shimming the top mount himself by packing it out with some "foreign" material.... a bodge? technically yes, but it genuinely did cure this problem... he's a factory qualified VW mechanic by the way :D he just tried something obvious and it worked... that was twenty years ago... logically he just took up the excess play with some packing material, I'd rather just do it the right way, I think he was running a few cars at the time and this was his idea of saving money, but it really did work.

 

Regarding cracked manifolds... think this is really only relevant to the standard cast one, mines was cracked badly when I removed it and I replaced it with the stainless steel one on the car now... it was only the brace piece on the standard manifold that was holding it together, I might be wrong but I'm pretty sure you can't crack or fracture steel, it should in theory just bend... nonetheless, I still don't want it banging off the floor, the movement is stressing other components too.

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Tom Fenton

 

 

Regarding cracked manifolds... think this is really only relevant to the standard cast one, mines was cracked badly when I removed it and I replaced it with the stainless steel one on the car now... it was only the brace piece on the standard manifold that was holding it together, I might be wrong but I'm pretty sure you can't crack or fracture steel, it should in theory just bend... nonetheless, I still don't want it banging off the floor, the movement is stressing other components too.

 

Apply a one off force to steel and it will indeed bend. Subject it to cyclic loading over a period of time and it will fatigue and then crack or fail. I have welded up many tubular manifolds.

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welshpug

Nearly every Megnex I have seen has had a repair, whereas the original cast units cracking though not uncommon, I haven't heard one in ages, probably because they are massively plentiful and easily replaceable.

 

I'm getting rather tired of my magnex, mainly due to needing the firmer lower bush, and am sorely tempted to bolt the original manifold and split downpipe back on.

 

OR, get a gti6 manifold altered to fit, which would relocate the pivot point far closer to the engine allowing a standard bush to be used.

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MikeC

Lads, Is it possible to repair the original cast manifold?

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welshpug

yes, but its not worth it unless you have the tools and materials to hand yourself, like Tom Fenton I'd imagine :lol:

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Miles

The bush I do sell separately, Just not listed, And as said above, Only use OE new mounts for the top, Not found any pattern ones that are any good

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Daviewonder

Are the fork bushes still available from dealers?

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farmer

Yeah Davie I have one coming to me for scrap price you want him?

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Mac Crash

 

Apply a one off force to steel and it will indeed bend. Subject it to cyclic loading over a period of time and it will fatigue and then crack or fail. I have welded up many tubular manifolds.

 

Acknowledged - if this is your experience then I trust your right, chief...

 

 

I'm getting rather tired of my magnex, mainly due to needing the firmer lower bush, and am sorely tempted to bolt the original manifold and split downpipe back on.

 

OR, get a gti6 manifold altered to fit, which would relocate the pivot point far closer to the engine allowing a standard bush to be used.

 

is the harder lower bush "much" more difficult to live with in a road based car?

 

hmmm, I'd like to have retained the standard exhaust, I really liked it and it was perfectly suited to the car, would be good to see a cut away section of the OE exhaust to see how Peugeot done it, the actual Magnex exhaust is fine but considerably noiser than the OE one, sonic boom effect in the car etc... the difference between the manifolds is another thing altogether, maybe I've just got a good engine but there is a very noticeable increase in power over the cast manifold, this is to be expected though with each exhaust port being served via it's own branch rather than fed through a restrictive collector... I'd guess it's not so hard to mate the 4 branch manifold to an OE exhaust system and have the best of both worlds?

 

The bush I do sell separately, Just not listed, And as said above, Only use OE new mounts for the top, Not found any pattern ones that are any good

 

Great, but how do I buy the bush if it isn't listed? :unsure:

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Tom Fenton

I have to be honest, you are making bloody hard work of this. The one in the pic looks a homebrew item made from solid nylon or similar. It will be awful in a road car. If you want my advice (as others have suggested) get in touch with Stew Baker at Baker Bushes and Mountings and order his uprated rear mount. For the first 500 miles it will be a bit noisy and buzzy then it will settle in lovely.

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Paul_13

I would personally go for the original rubber fork bush (as Miles sells) as the solid one that BakerBM do is a bit hardcore for a roadcar (IMO, at least).

those solid bushes are horrendous, cheesegrater and I have both taken them off straight after fitting them as the car shook to pieces

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welshpug

2.5k miles on, my 205 is still vibrating like a bastard, going to sack this magnex and solid bottom mount bollocks off soon.

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Mac Crash

I have to be honest, you are making bloody hard work of this. The one in the pic looks a homebrew item made from solid nylon or similar. It will be awful in a road car. If you want my advice (as others have suggested) get in touch with Stew Baker at Baker Bushes and Mountings and order his uprated rear mount. For the first 500 miles it will be a bit noisy and buzzy then it will settle in lovely.

 

Your right, sorry about that but I have no experience of these bushes and I just need to get this right - i.e buy the right bush, so I will make my choice and update this thread when it has been fitted and shaken down, I think the secret may be with the right combination of lower bush and connecting fork bush.

Edited by Mac Crash

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Mac Crash

2.5k miles on, my 205 is still vibrating like a bastard, going to sack this magnex and solid bottom mount bollocks off soon.

 

Try a softer bush, no? why trade a stainless 4 branch for that cast factory crap?

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welshpug

Because the cast factory crap actually works damn well and doesnt need race/rally spec engine mounts to stop it hitting the body!

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Mac Crash

Because the cast factory crap actually works damn well and doesnt need race/rally spec engine mounts to stop it hitting the body!

 

Well, I've ordered the "Group N" lower bush from Baker BM and the fork bush from Miles at Pug Racing, so will let you know how it all is when it's fitted... I can't refit the factory manifold because it was in bits when I removed it with the brace bar being the only thing holding it still together, not that I'd want to anyway due to the significantly noticeable power increase from the Magnex, this is my experience, yours might be different, but good to hear your thoughts, chief :mellow:

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jimakos205

any news for the bushes?

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Mac Crash

Buy from Baker or Pug Sport.... the car now has some little under body vibrations but knocking on the floor has been eliminated due to engine rock... whatever anyone tells you on here... the OE exhaust manifold from Peugeot was fitted for several reasons, i.e. economy and cheapness.... my best advice is fit a true 4- branch manifold because then you will have true free-flow. The standard manifold is rubbish mass produced s*ite, it restricts flow more than the OE exhaust which is actually quite good... you need an exhaust to draw... not collect...

 

If you have access to garage/welder etc.... then source a proper 4-1 manifold and mate it up to the OE exhaust.... 1/2 a day's work and you'll have a free-flowing exhaust... you'll need upgraded mounts though because the manifold does knock the floor-pan on tired mounts... you might get away with just the top mount depending on the condition/age of the 2 lower ones...

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Callum
On 9/19/2013 at 9:53 PM, Miles said:

the Fork bush is best renewed these days, a Std one is more than good enough and stiff enough when new, I have them listed here, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Peugeot-205-GTi-GTi-6-Mi16-Engine-Rear-Engine-Fork-Torque-bush-/350847229657?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item51b01fded9

 

I have the Hard rubber lower mount too, I try and avoid words like Group 'N' as it's all ******** just to get more money from people. A uprated part is just that (Rant over)

 

The mounts all come from the same supplier, Vibra Technics

I changed the lower mount today and used the later xu turbo diesel one and it's made a noticeable difference however I feel it could be a little better, can I change the fork bush without having to remove the drive shaft again I didn't take any notice on how the fork come off

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j_turnell
10 hours ago, Callum said:

Anyone know?

Bolts through the subframe and through the bottom mount. Should be obvious if you take a look.

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