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kyepan

Eco Parcel Shelf - Solar Charger / Charge Controller

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kyepan

Hi there,

 

Because i'm shortly going to be moving into london, where the car is going to receive much less daily use, i'm going to build a special parcel shelf.

  • Fairly large solar panel flush with shelf top
  • Integrated Charge controller - to prevent overcharging
  • Stealth mounted 6 x 9's
  • Stealth mounted amp for 6 x 9's
  • 6mm Marine ply double sandwich construction
  • Low cost.

I expect the build should cost about £80 quid all in, so twice the price of a second hand shelf on here, but with ice and charging circuit.

 

Costs so far

 

£ Free - my old two channel 200w amp

£ 21 Inc. PNP 6 x 9 Megavox MGX 350w

£ 11.99 12v 10A Charge controller with surge protection

£ 11.97 75cm Acoustically transparent Speaker cloth

£ free - some 6mm marine ply lying round from when i did the bathroom floor.

 

to come

£ 30 ~ Approx for a 12v solar panel that fits in the dimensions of the shelf with room for the 6x9's

£ 5 for wire and ring connectors to connect to the battery /panel / amp / fuse for amp.

 

Should be interesting, and keep the battery topped up between long periods of use.

Yes i know it's a great idea, and Yes ford already have a patent on it.

 

more info to follow.

 

Cheers

J

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pugpete1108

looks like a good plan, shame mine is always in the garage and never sees the daylight

 

are you amking the shelf from scratch or just fitting the ply underneath the original one?

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kyepan

making from scratch.

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GLPoomobile

Couple of questions/suggestions from me....

 

1 - If your's has a sunroof, I'd consider mounting the solar charger up there instead, on top of the sunshade if there's enough room to fit and still be able to slide the shade back when required. The problem with having it on the parcel shelf is you are going to be more limited with how much direct sunlight it'll catch, especially given that the typical London scenario of lots of tall building around is going to limit sun as well.

 

2 - Do you really need 6x9's in the shelf? Would you not be better concentrating on better sound reproduction up front, with a pair of decent coaxials in the stock rear location? Maybe one of those compact subwoofers somewhere if you feel the need for a bit more kick?

 

And is this just becuase you feel obliged to have thumping bass now you are moving to London? :P

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Tesstuff

Couple of questions/suggestions from me....

 

1 - If your's has a sunroof, I'd consider mounting the solar charger up there instead, on top of the sunshade if there's enough room to fit and still be able to slide the shade back when required. The problem with having it on the parcel shelf is you are going to be more limited with how much direct sunlight it'll catch, especially given that the typical London scenario of lots of tall building around is going to limit sun as well.

 

2 - Do you really need 6x9's in the shelf? Would you not be better concentrating on better sound reproduction up front, with a pair of decent coaxials in the stock rear location? Maybe one of those compact subwoofers somewhere if you feel the need for a bit more kick?

 

And is this just becuase you feel obliged to have thumping bass now you are moving to London? :P

 

*REPORTED*

 

Reason : For being a right killjoy!!

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kyepan

Mine is a dealer fit sunroof, so parcel shelf is the best place, otherwise a good idea!

 

2 - Do you really need 6x9's in the shelf?

 

Yes. I do, and amplified ones at that.. my music tastes require it, and i don't want a sub, i may use the cross over on the amp though to limit their top range.. or may not.

 

These pioneer components will be up front

 

and the slimmer ones for the rear

 

all very budget stuff.. but with a little bit of dynamat around them and possibly on the panels behind them it should work fairly well.

 

also, i'll be making sure the shelf can be unplugged.

Edited by kyepan

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pugpete1108

I couldn't decide if to build mine from scratch but I'll see how yours turns out and how you plan on mounting it securely to the flimsy rear trims etc.

 

 

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welshpug

why move into london? its orrible :lol:

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kyepan

why move into london? its orrible :lol:

Moving into london so I can test the parcel shelf.. DUH.. ;)

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johnnyboy666

but with a little bit of dynamat around them and possibly on the panels behind them it should work fairly well.

 

Quoted for the truth! dynamat is my new best friend after recently upgrading my noise making technology

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Liquid_106

also, i'll be making sure the shelf can be unplugged.

I didn't want the usual oxy cabling hanging down and the mandatory bullet/spade connectors, so I used the quick release plug from a 306 parcel shelf. All you see now is the 'curly pig tail' lead coming out the corner of the shelf near the hinge, which plugs into the corresponding socket I sunk into the parcel shelf support trim - looks oem ;)

 

I kept the original shelf, mounted an acoustic wrapped 18 mm mdf plank underneath, cut holes for the 6x9, cut the speaker grills to cover the holes on the top (so the carpet didn't sink in the holes) and then wrapped the top of the shelf in acoustic carpet. The speakers were then mounted to the plank from underneath so nothing is seen from the top, the speakers are mounted securely and the shelf is solid so it doesn't bounce or effect the sound - because its so solid it adds to the sound :)

 

Like the idea about the solar panel, shame you can't mount it in the sunroof as mentioned.

 

Edit:

Like this:

xfk_audi_5886_final_slideshow.jpg

Edited by Liquid_106

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allye

6x9's and a two layers of marine plywood? Your boot struts are going to have opening that! (unless you do away with the parcel shelf lift?)

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kyepan

 

I didn't want the usual oxy cabling hanging down and the mandatory bullet/spade connectors, so I used the quick release plug from a 306 parcel shelf.

 

That is a good idea, I want quick release too. But how is the question.

 

Also how did you stick the acoustic cloth to it?

 

6x9's and a two layers of marine plywood? Your boot struts are going to have opening that! (unless you do away with the parcel shelf lift?)

yes plus amp and panel, 6mm ply, but I doubt the tail gate struts will lift. Edited by kyepan

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jeremy

Speaking from experience, keep you parcel shelf looking OE. Although I think it sounds like a good idea, is it necessary ie the solar charging, I doubt it. Does it say take me, possibly yes.

 

I had 7X10 kenwoods and some 6 1/4 pioneers in the rear shelf of my 106. I used the orifginal shelf and mounted 12mm mdf to the underside by screwing through the top

of the original shelf. Cut holes making sure not to cut any of the ridges out of the shelf, then used spray glue to bond the accoustic cloth to the shelf. Finally mounted speakers to the underside. I also had a 10" pioneer sub in the boot a top of the range Alpine HU with an almost top of the range Alpine amp in the boot, this was in 1996. Due to the fact it looked like a standard Diesel Escapade it drew zero attention. Unlike my 309 where that install found a new owner in Bethnal Green without me evn selling it!!!

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Liquid_106

That is a good idea, I want quick release too. But how is the question.

I'd looked at a few options from Maplins, but nothing looked as good/OEM or functioned as easily as the 306 plug. I know you may get audiophiles saying that the gague of the wire isn't big enough blah, blah, blah - it's sounded alright to me!

Also how did you stick the acoustic cloth to it?

For the top of the shelf, I just used normal carpet glue (sort of like this), but to keep the edges from coming loose (as they were wrapped underneath and there was little surface area for it to grip) I used a stronger glue - one of those glue guns IIRC.

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kyepan

Nearly bought an amorphous panel because it said it was efficient in low light, then bought a mono crystalline one instead, because it was efficient in low light, it's not very stealthy as it has a white surround so I may look into mounting it on the lower layer to hide the white edges.

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omega

hope we going to see some pics of this and a build thread.

just a thought if you are driving on a hot sunny day will it overcharge? or will the regulator on the alternator sort it

Edited by omega

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Rippthrough

10amp charge controller is a bit optimistic!

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kyepan

pics will follow! when i get started.

 

10A is the smallest one i could find.

 

Acoustic cloth has been ordered, as has sticky spray to mount it.

 

Just ordered a decent head unit too, as mine is on it's last legs, it reboots the facia every time you change the volume, and the facia has a few dead lines of pixels.

 

Head unit wise, I initially looked at kenwood, later on I was looking at Alpine after some advice from a friend who is into car audio. Was teetering on the brink of sniping a second hand alpine 113bt.. but went for the 133bt in the end because it's bluetooth functionality includes voice dialling, and a load of other decent bluetooth stuff. It also.. more importantly has full cross over control which means i can tweak to my hearts content, the JVC i have now has a woefull eq.. really pointless, it looks good, but when you try and use it, it's just clumsy.

 

Also got myself some sound dampening sheets from carbuildersolutions (as per GPL's suggesion on a previous thread).. 2mx5m worth... not the tarmac stuff, but more modern stuff.. so will be doing both the doors, and possibly inner skins, rear quarters, inner skins. As the interior is getting replaced with some half leather sorrento stuff.. any other recommended locations to help reduce road noise? exhaust noise?

 

As i said, once the build starts... we'll get some photos going.

 

Steps to follow

 

1)Remove old parcel shelf,

2) Mark it out on the ply

3) cut a test sheet

4) try it in the boot

 

then once the components are all here (charge controller and panel)

 

5) arrange and mark out the components

6) do some more cutting

 

etc

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Liquid_106

any other recommended locations to help reduce road noise? exhaust noise?

Boot floor - but not all over, just between the ribs will suffice. Really, any panel that 'boings' could do with sound damping, but just need a few strips, rather than coating it completely.

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johnnyboy666

I intend to soundproof my boot floor, @liquid_106 is it more effective if you just do between the ribs? would save me a few quid rather than doing the whole floor

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Liquid_106

Tbh, I don't know if covering the whole lot would be more effective, but it was a trade off between cost and effectiveness for me. I was more interested in making sure I didn't sound like a chav from the outside when the music was turned up, rather than road / exhaust noise - what areas I did put it, seemed to do the job.

Try just the strips first, if you're not happy, fill in the gaps. More work, but it might only cost you half as much ;)

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cRaig

The main improvements I found when soundproofing mine (dynamat style stuff following by sound deadening sludge) was the rear quarters, and more specifically the rear wheel arches inside the quarters. Really reduced road noise, particularly driving along wet roads/motorways, as I found the noise of water being thrown up into the rear wheel arches very annoying. Other than that, I dont know how much it reduced noise, just generally improved the panel 'tinniness', doors shut with a more satisfying clunk etc

 

Very cool thread by the way, looking forward to seeing the results :)

 

Craig

Edited by cRaig

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kyepan

hope we going to see some pics of this and a build thread.

just a thought if you are driving on a hot sunny day will it overcharge? or will the regulator on the alternator sort it

the regulator will, i have the full specs somewhere hang on.

 

 

10A SDRC 12/24V solar charge controller

Package:

1.1PCS 10A 12/24V solar charge controller

2.1x USERS` Manual

This solar charge controller is designed for solar DC power supply system. MCU and professional software are applied as the control center to fulfill intelligent system control. LED will indicate the working state. It`s easy to turn on and turn off output through manual operation. And there are two optional voltage modes, 12V and 24V.

Features:

MCU and professional software are used as the control center to fulfill intelligent system control, along with PWM high efficiency charging way. Boost, recovery and float charging auto work for battery long-life and with temperature compensation. It has high accuracy over discharging control by the discharging rate, over-discharging control voltage modified by the battery discharging rate curve. Our controller has the function of self protection from overload, outside and inside short circuit, reverse connection, thunder and lightning, PV panel reverse current, over charging and discharging etc. During the short circuit and overload protection, no any component will be damaged and need change, including fuse. The LED will indicate the working state of the system in charging, overcharging power full, power low, over-discharging, over load, out short circuit, load on/off and etc. Our products meet the industrial production standard with wide temperature running area -35℃ to +55℃.

Specifications

Type

SDRC-10IP

Rated charging current

10A

Rated load current

10A

Work voltage

12V;24V auto switch

Over load, short circuit protection

Over load protection action: 1.25times rated load current in 60-sec, 1.5 times rated load current in 5-sec; Short circuit protection action: >=3times rated load current

No load current

<=6mA

Charging circuit voltage drop

<=0.26V

Load circuit voltage drop

<=0.15V

Over voltage protection

17V, x2/24V

Work temperature

Industry stage: -35℃ to +55℃

Boost charge voltage

14.6V; x2/24V(keep 10-min) (Only applied when overdischarge appears)

Direct charge voltage

14.4V; x2/24V(keep 10-min)

Float charge voltage

13.6V; x2/24V(keep working until drop to the point of charge return voltage action)

Charge return voltage

13.2V; x2/24V

Temperature compensation

-5mv/℃/2V(Boost charge, Direct charge, Float charge, charge return voltage)

Lower voltage indicate

12.0V; x2/24V

Over discharge voltage

11.1V no load-real-time modified voltag

 

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kyepan

progress.

 

Tonight the build started.

 

Firstly the solar panel had a massive mastic'd on aluminium frame making it far to thick to use. depending on the size of the inner panel will determine how i construct the shelf layers

99efb557.jpg

 

That got removed with the help of a screwdriver, pliers and junior hacksaw, Glass totally still intact, new thickness about 5mm

4230375c.jpg

 

Charge controller also turned up today, plugged the panel in and it appears to know when it's getting power.

e8ba802a.jpg

 

the rest of the kit on three rough cut panels.

bb0c7e4a.jpg

 

laid on top of each other, and marked up against a parcel shelf

b0f4b978.jpg

 

The three layers stuck together with masking tape (because i don't have clamps) whilst they are cut.

89d4eeee.jpg

 

Three equally sized panels.

d966e000.jpg

 

Now the slightly tricky bit, bottom panel is at the bottom of the picture, middle in the middle, top at the top.

 

The solar panel fits in the middle panel, and the white area of it is masked by the top panel, the diode pokes out the bottom.

 

The 6x9's sit on the bottom pannel, and rise up through the top two.

 

So as you can see here, the bottom panel has two smaller cuts for the speakers

the middle panel has a larget cut for the speakers and a full size cut for the panel

the top layer has a larger cut for the speakers and a masking cut for the panel.

c9fda094.jpg

 

With the pilot holes cut.. for the jig.. and ran out of time.

1683ca12.jpg

 

Tomorrow:

 

Cut out everything

mount speakers on bottom layer

Tape together for a trial fit in the car, if all ok.

 

Stick the top two layers together

Mastic in the panel with silicone.

Glue, screw and fabric wrap the top two panels, leave under something heavy

Wrap the bottom panel, mount the speakers and glue it to the top two panels.

mount and wire up the charge controller / amp.

Edited by kyepan
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