[engine_work] My New Car - 1.6 Gti To Mi16

[Will Eastman 6]

Some more pics of the front of engine fully painted

 

 

 

[dcc 855]

You can remove the pulley on the back, its only there to run the AC or PS from the 405 it came from.

 

Looking very smart

 

Deffo going to be painting my rebuilt engine in a similar colour!

[Will Eastman 6]

Yeh just hammerite smooth paint, goes on easy. The hardest bit is degreasing, I used the cheapest degreaser in the world, 95 ron Unleaded haha.

Just hoping the engine doesnt go up in flames on the first firing!

Edited February 16, 2012 by Will Eastman

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

Getting common again these conversions, LOL

Just completed one with the same colour scheme, well most are as it's about the best one I think

 

Don't loose the dip stick, and hows the TB?

[Anthony 1,000]

What's the history of the engine?

 

It's all very well making it look nice, but I'd personally concentrate on making it last - at the very least I'd be replacing the big ends if there's no history of them being done and getting some form of baffled sump on there to help prevent oil starvation, especially if you're considering any track usage. Obviously that's in addition to the usual cambelt, waterpump, filter, plugs etc that you'd do as a matter of course.

 

The forum is littered with tales of woe from people that just put engines in without touching them and spun a big end a couple of months later...

 

Damned good fun when you get a good, healthy one though - fun, frantic, and feisty

[Will Eastman 6]

Just got it from 'dcc'. Is out of a 405 MOT failer, engine has been rebuilt 8k miles ago with the following being done;

 

new bearings

valve guides/stem seals

valves reseated

headgasket

new leads

new plugs

new rotor/cap

 

I know all this painting wont do much than abit of protection but its what im good at and as Iv said im abit of an engine bay tart haha.

[dcc 855]

Aye, It had a small fortune spent on it prior to the 405 circumming to rust.

 

Looking forward to getting it in and fired up

[Anthony 1,000]

If it's been rebuilt that recently then it should be fine, although I would still personally put a baffled sump on as a sensible precaution whilst you've the ease of doing it out of the car - it won't prevent the oil starvation issue, but it does reduce it

[Will Eastman 6]

Yeh have looked at baffled sump but really cant afford it.

Worked abit on the engine today, noticed water and some white gunk down the spark plug holes in the head, managed to get the water out but theres still abit of gunk in there. Any ideas why this would be, (guess its just because the engines been standing for a while). Am abit worried about taking the plugs out as dont want the anything going down into the cylinders, any ideas?

[timmsy19 3]

Sounds like oil gunk to me, it should disappear once its all warmed up after a nice long run. Usually happens in the fuel filler too if the car has been used on frequent short journeys

 

But then again im no expert

[Will Eastman 6]

Spoke to dcc and he said it was from the garage that the engine/car was stored in and its just some sort of paint/gunky stuff. Think il just try and wipe most of it off then hope the rest will dry out once in the car and running.

[Will Eastman 6]

Update...

 

So the work has started and with the help of "dcc" the engine is in. Has gone reasonably smoothly and other than a few hickups.

The engine came out and went in smoothly and as it stand has the fuel pump plumbed in and engine and gear oil in, with coolant hoses hooked up apart from the rad. A little hickup with the rad with the top small pipe snapping off so have plugged it but been later told i need it so going to try and put a pipe in it. Also when trying to start this evening there was no power what so ever (despite everything being plugged in with a decent battery). Other than that its gone well and hopefully will hear it fire tomorrow.

Its looking rather lovely now its in aswell so here are some pics of it.

 

old engine soon to come out

 

empty bay

rebuilt gearbox about to go out

new engine going in...

ancillaries going on

as it looked at the end of today

 

and heres my mates whos helping me clio williams

[Anthony 1,000]

Ah so it was you who Dan was helping when he was phoning me every 5 minutes yesterday

[Will Eastman 6]

Yeh they were the little hickups haha, cheers for the help

[Will Eastman 6]

Car has been out on a few test runs and goes like a dream . Apart from the solid mount making for a rattly ride whatever the revs, (cue dcc to tell me 'I told you so' ).

Car has a few little problems but should hopefully go through its MOT tomorrow, fingers crossed. One slightly confusing issue is that the revs don't seem to drop straight away or particularly quickly when you take your foot off the throttle.

Other than that very much enjoying my little mi16 upgrade

[dcc 855]

That mount will 'settle' itself in a few weeks, usually after 1000-1500 miles

 

As for the 'holding' revs, could be a small airleak somewhere?

[Will Eastman 6]

Hey MOT is now passed, and I am therefore a very happy boy. Love driving this so much!!! It is alot louder than the old engine but i think alot of this is down to the vibrations coming through from the exhaust just touching the bulkhead. I will be getting this sorted soon.

 

As for the 'holding' revs, could be a small airleak somewhere?

 

As for the holding revs, it is a little odd when you drive it, especially compared with the throttle response of the old engine. I did check for an air leak but really couldnt find any (guessing it will be somewhere after the throttle body) also could this just be ecu fault.

 

Another little problem I have is that the oil and coolant temp wernt working, I switched two wires around (i think two browny wires) near the stat housing and now the coolant gauge works, but the oil still doesnt work, any ideas why this would be???? Where is the sensor??

 

Will try and get some more *on the road* pictures up of this soon.

 

Cheers

[Baz 421]

Revs holding could be dodgy TB spindle/linkage.

[Anthony 1,000]

Oil temperature sensor is on the back of the sump, assuming it's an original Mi16 sump on it.

 

The wire tends to get brittle due to the exhaust heat and break, and the sensor itself is easy to damage when moving the engine around as the engine can lean backwards and break it.

 

As for holding revs, how long is it doing so for and at what revs? Some of the Mi16 ECU variants hold the revs at fast idle for a few moments before settling back down, and this is completely normal behaviour for them, and you wouldn't expect them to behave like a 8v where the revs drop instantly.

[Will Eastman 6]

Urm well its just at all revs, when I take my foot of the throttle it doesn't drop straight away it almost hovers and then drop slowly. It is a three row ecu, I was thinking it may be an ecu programming thing but it does make it worse to drive in my opinion. I could maybe try and get a video of it as this maybe the best way of showing you how it is happening.

 

As for the sensor urm is it right next to the sump plug because if so I was wondering why there is a slightly mashed up looking bolts, woops.

[Anthony 1,000]

Sounds about right for the oil temp sensor I'm afraid.

 

It's the same as your old 8v one if that's in one piece still though - you'll need to drain the oil to swap it over of course.

 

Normally the revs drop quickly to around 1500 or so, and drop slowly from there. If you're saying that it tends to stick at whatever revs then something doesn't sound right - I assume that it's nothing as simple as a sticking throttle cable is it? Usually the easy way of ruling that out is to operate the throttle from under the bonnet and see if it exhibits the same issue.

[Will Eastman 6]

No its not that, iv tried doing that and pushing the throttle back closed but it still seems to do it. Seems like there must be and air leak but really cant seem to think where, is there any usual places?? Should I have jubilee clipped the oil breather related pipe and the vac hose onto the manifold?

[welshpug 1,621]

Have you checked the Throttle switch is working correctly, also check that the flap in the AFM moves freely.

[Will Eastman 6]

Is the throttle switch the little black block with a plug off it on the t-bodie?? I could swap this over as I have a spare, also have a spare afm though I think this one is working well.

[welshpug 1,621]

I wouldn't just swap it, test it.