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Silky

Gearbox Removal And Swap

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Silky

I need to change my gearbox as the synchros are wearing on 3 & 4

 

Shafts are out, gear rods off, clutch and speedo cable disconnected, starter off etc etc

 

What is the best/easiest way to get the box off and another on with the engine in situ ?

 

Gearbox mount off and lower that side ?

Does the top mount have to be undone

Does the exhaust need to be disconnected ?

 

Doing it of an evening so don't have hours of light

 

Cheers

Michael

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kate205gti

put a jack under the sump on a block of wood to keep the engine level, take out driveshafts, disconnect clutch cable, speedo, afm and any breathers that are in the way, disconnect battery and remove, sling a rope round the gearbox and attach to engine crane, remove battery tray/mount, wiggle box out and pull it out the top :ph34r:

 

other mounts and exhaust can stay in situ - refit is the reverse of removal :lol:

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Silky

Cheers for that Kate

 

Though ideally I wanted to drop it from the bottom to save me moving all the wiring out they way which I have just sorted out

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Tom Fenton

I'm prepared to be told otherwise, but I don't think the gearbox will come out of the top with the engine in place.

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Anthony

I'm with Tom - I'm pretty sure that there won't be nearly enough space to lift the gearbox out of the top seperate to the engine.

 

Easy to drop out of the bottom though with the engine in place though once you've removed the driveshafts, disconnected the linkages/clutch and speedo cables/starter/few wires. Don't need to remove the mount or anything else, just eat your Weetibix before bench pressing the new one back onto the engine from underneath (or better still, enlist the help of a friend)

 

Given you've already done the prep work, no reason you shouldn't have it done in an evening :lol:

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Silky

Cheers Ant, that's more like it.

 

The shafts are out, gear linkages off, clutch/speedo cables off, starter bolts out and moved out the way, earths are off, battery out the way

 

Got a friends help for tmrw night so it should be just unbolting the box and sliding it out and new one in.

 

Had weetabix today and will have more tomorrow.

 

Ant, is the exhaust ok to stay connected ?

How much does the engine need to be dropped by (approx) ?

 

Cheers

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Tom Fenton

I usually remove the battery tray and also the speedo housing off the gearbox to make things less of a struggle. 7 bolts in total to remove both of these items.

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Anthony
Ant, is the exhaust ok to stay connected ?

How much does the engine need to be dropped by (approx) ?

Exhaust is fine to stay attached, and I don't touch the engine at all - just leave it hanging on the remaining two mounts, which drops the gearbox end down a little to make refitting the new box easier.

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Silky
Exhaust is fine to stay attached, and I don't touch the engine at all - just leave it hanging on the remaining two mounts, which drops the gearbox end down a little to make refitting the new box easier.

 

Ah right, that sounds alot easier than supporting the engine with a jack.

 

I could probably get the box off myself, may just struggle to get one back on but a friend can help with that

 

Does the engine drop enough to slide the box off or do you need to wiggle the engine a tad to gain the access ?

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Anthony
Does the engine drop enough to slide the box off or do you need to wiggle the engine a tad to gain the access ?

You'll need to twist the box slightly as you pull it off so that the gearbox mount stud clears the chassis rail, and there's not a huge amount of space between the subframe and speedo drive (hence Tom mentioned about removing it, although I personally don't), but otherwise yes, the engine leans over enough that removing and refitting the box is pretty much slide off and slide on.

 

Removing the gearbox by yourself is easy - just refitting it that's much easier with two people.

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Silky
You'll need to twist the box slightly as you pull it off so that the gearbox mount stud clears the chassis rail, and there's not a huge amount of space between the subframe and speedo drive (hence Tom mentioned about removing it, although I personally don't), but otherwise yes, the engine leans over enough that removing and refitting the box is pretty much slide off and slide on.

 

Removing the gearbox by yourself is easy - just refitting it that's much easier with two people.

 

I might have a go at getting the box off tonight then, gives me more time tomorrow night to get the other one on before it gets dark

 

Thanks for the advice, will update with how I get on

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pug_ham

If you can lower the subframe it makes it such an easy job but even then I've done gearbox / clutch & flywheel swaps from start to finish in four hours.

 

Only thing extra I do is remove the stud from the gearbox for the battery tray mounting so you don't need to drop it as far to slide out.

 

Graham.

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timb1046

i've dropped a few out of the bottom with the engine insitue, when you undo the top nut from the box, ensure the engine is held up by a jack or somthing like that so it stays in place, although you may want to drop it very slightly to ease removal. the hard bit is putting the new box on, lots of wiggling and jiggling needed to get the input shaft lined up, it helps to turn the flywheel slightly when attempting to line it up. there is a good guide on the main site for removal/re-fitting

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BusEngineer
Only thing extra I do is remove the stud from the gearbox for the battery tray mounting so you don't need to drop it as far to slide out.

 

Graham.

 

+1

 

Made it alot easier getting it back in too

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Silky
Only thing extra I do is remove the stud from the gearbox for the battery tray mounting so you don't need to drop it as far to slide out.

Graham.

 

Which way do you do it Graham ?

 

Do you undo the gearbox mount, then all the gearbox bolts, then as the box is coming off gain access from the top to the stud ?

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welshpug

you'd remove it before removing the bellhousing bolts.

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Silky

So undo the gearbox mount first

 

Then undo the spike

 

Then undo all the bellhousing bolts to take the box off

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floodys

Just a quick note, that stud is a funny size from what I remember and if really tight, difficult to get to/get a good pull on it to undo. Defo out the bottom though, can be done ok with car jacked right up and even easier as you got engine crane, I remember doing it once with a brace between strut tops and lowering engine via rope!

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pug_ham
So undo the gearbox mount first

 

Then undo the spike

 

Then undo all the bellhousing bolts to take the box off

Yes, needs a 15 or 16mm deep socket to undo it.

 

Graham.

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Tom Fenton

And can also be fecking tight as well! Use threadlock when replacing it too.

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Alastairh

Didn't murgie write a how to guide on gear box replacements? If

so, it's on the main site.

 

Al

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Baz

I never remove the stud, battery tray or the speedo housing. Makes it a little more awkward but after so much practise it's straight forward enough.

 

It's like for like tbh, spend the time faffing, or removing bits, personal preference i guess! I'm perfectly capable to remove and re-fit them alone, although as said alot easier with help, i'm certainly no He-Man but it can be done. :(

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Silky

Cheers Baz, so you just give it some wiggles and twists and it pops out ?

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Baz

It comes away easily enough, slide the box away from the engine and once the shaft comes out of the clutch it's pretty simple, sometimes takes a bit of manipulating to get the 'box physically dropped down through the gap between the subframe and rad, as the diff housing can get a little caught.

 

It's getting it back in that can be more of a pain at times! For the same reason, getting it up past the subframe and then at the right angle etc. Take a little extra time to line the clutch up properly etc if this is being changed too, there's nothing worse than getting to the point where the box won't go back on because of the clutch alignment! :lol:

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