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Jrod

Uh Oh...

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Jrod
Would it be a good idea to lose the 'splitter' in the exhaust whilst you have the chance?

 

No idea? is there a benefit from removing it?

 

Are the valve shafts bent at all? Just check as my rebuilt Mi tapped, turned out to be a couple of distorted valve guides.

 

Not sure yet.

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Tom Fenton

I personally would leave the split alone, the 405 the engines came in also had it.

 

Jrod don't want to teach you to suck eggs but I always find tensioning the cambelt with the engine in the car is much easier if you remove the alternator and the big alloy mount on the front of the block, and support the engine with a jack/block of wood.

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Miles

Got to leave the split in it, Remove it and the power and torque will suffer

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DrSarty
Got to leave the split in it, Remove it and the power and torque will suffer

 

OK. I only mentioned it (asked) because when others were talking about it recently someone even said it had broken off and jammed in the downpipe, rattling like a bastard.

 

If it really helps and is secure then I gather it's a good thing. Thanks for the clarification.

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Jrod
Jrod don't want to teach you to suck eggs but I always find tensioning the cambelt with the engine in the car is much easier if you remove the alternator and the big alloy mount on the front of the block, and support the engine with a jack/block of wood.

 

I've not much of a clue on Xu's so its good to learn things for the future, this time however I'm not doing any of the work. Paul (pug309twin40s) from here is as I trust him to do a good job and don't trust myself enough yet! :lol:

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jackherer
OK. I only mentioned it (asked) because when others were talking about it recently someone even said it had broken off and jammed in the downpipe, rattling like a bastard.

 

If it really helps and is secure then I gather it's a good thing. Thanks for the clarification.

 

Only cheap nasty pattern downpipes have a separate split that can come loose. The proper downpipes are actually two separate D section tubes welded together.

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taylorspug

As far as checking the inlet valves goes, you dont even have to take them out tbh. Get the exhausts sorted and back in, then flip the head over and fill the combustion chambers up with petrol or similar and see if there is any leakage. :P

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Jrod

16 (just incase) valves arrived today thanks to Miles. :)

 

I'm sure the inlet valves dont seat very well so I think I'll just replace the lot.

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Jrod

Here are the bent exhaust valves

bent002.jpg

And how it looks now

bent015.jpg

bent016.jpg

 

Also it turned out 1 Inlet valve was very slightly bent, I'm pretty sure this is nothing to do with this though and must of been like that when the engine was built.

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pug309twin40s

looking better.

 

head all ready to go back on the engine?

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Jrod

Not quite yet Paul, Still got to sort out the cam followers as it was tapping from the top end. Although now I think this is more likely to do with the bent inlet valve but I might aswell replace them now I have them here and the head is off.

 

Should save a fair bit of time Tuesday. :P

Edited by Jrod

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Jrod

So I'm just sorting out the cam followers.

 

I read that they should always go back in the original location, problem is im fitting second hand ones so thats obviously not going to work. Is there anything I need to do when fitting them to a new location or just cover them in oil?

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DrSarty

Lots of oil helps, but you should also use that assembly paste, particularly on the face of the bucket/cam follower as that's gonna take a pounding on initial run-up.

 

I wouldn't worry too much about matching up buckets to valves as it's not always possible like you say.

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Miles

Anywhere is fine so no need to worry, If they where solid then it is a different story

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SweetBadger
So I'm just sorting out the cam followers.

 

I read that they should always go back in the original location, problem is im fitting second hand ones so thats obviously not going to work. Is there anything I need to do when fitting them to a new location or just cover them in oil?

 

If they've come from a different engine you need to drain/depressurise them to make sure that no valves are held open.

 

To reset the tappets you need to whack them on a block of wood so that the high pressure middle bit comes out then reset the one way valve inside- once you've done this, they can go back in any order.

 

It can take a while to get them apart, if you want to save yourself a bruised hand from repeatedly smacking the damn things try something like this:

 

http://forum.205gtidrivers.com/index.php?showtopic=90908

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Jrod

My hand took the pounding yesterday when I did that! :lol:

 

Thanks for the advice guys, fingers crossed she'll be on the road today...

Edited by Jrod

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DrSarty

Whilst we're on the subject, here are two vids sent to me by PeterT about 3 years ago showing said 'banging' of hydraulic tappets and also using a grinding wheel or 60grit wet & dry to dress the surface of the pistons.

 

Bangin'

 

Dressin'

 

:)

 

They soaked for about 2 days in two sets of refreshed 'Jizer' degreaser, and then were washed in boiling water and lovingly dried. :wub:

 

I did this all in the kitchen on a piece of MDF board, and then using a tiny screwdriver to depress the ball valve as mentioned earlier and warm, clean oil in a syringe to refill/prime them.

 

Engine restarted like a dream, nice and quiet and has been so ever since.

 

I like refurbing tappets. It's theraputic. B)

Edited by DrSarty

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Jrod

All runs but its rather tappety still, not sure how long running it needs for this to go but i've a feeling its not going so they may be coming out again. :)

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boombang

They should quieten down pretty quickly, cold oil pressure is very high.

 

May be that you have slightly bent valve guides, this tends to leave Mi16s with a rattle from the head.

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Jrod

Its possible I guess but its exactly the same as it was before this happened and I put that down to the followers.

 

If it doesnt quieten down then I'll take them all out again and spend a bit more time cleaning them as I rushed it last night.

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taylorspug

Give it a couple of good runs before taking it all apart again, some can take ages to refill properly.

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Jrod

Yep I'm going to use it for this week either way, It's alot quieter than when first started so we'll see. Either way I'm not scared of taking it apart anymore. :(

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Jrod

Well just been out for a drive. After a 10 minute section of motorway I stopped at the end of the sliproad and the tapping was gone horrah! By the time I got home it was back again.... so head back down the motorway and once again gone. Get home and its back gosh darnit! :(

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Jrod

Well I think I know which one it may be after messing about with a screwdriver to my ear. Going to whip the cam cover off this weekend and see if any are hard/soft.

 

It definetly goes after a session of highish revs though so it seems like one just isnt holding pressure? :blush:

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