Has anyone found an alternative sensor that can be used as a replacement?

This is for my rally car and I can see that the aftermarket aluminium alternatives simply do away with this sensor. The car is obviously prepared and maintained as a competition car, so fluid checks are routinely carried out. I’m leaning towards blanking the tank off where the level sensor would fit. Thoughts please

I have been having some issues when starting the car, starter motor will click multiple times or never or the starter motor will struggle.

I have replaced the battery, new starter motor, the wires going to the starter, I have removed the brown plug connector and re connected all the wires and have checked and cleaned up the earth points. I have also replaced the ignition coil.

Sometimes it will start no problem.

If you go for the Purflux one thinking it will be the best and the OE-type filter — not anymore !

Purflux seems to have started selling some dodgy items.

There is no more “zig-zag” filter paper inside, just straight paper, and an odd-looking plastic bypass valve and central tube .

So either there are a lot of counterfeit filters around, or Purflux quality has seriously gone downhill.

There’s also a plastic protective film on top of the new ones — I’ve never seen that before.
Clearly made in China, and there are loads of identical ones on Alibaba.

The box is also a bit different — colours and font size differ from the old original box.

So I ordered the Fram variant, because before it used to be the identical Purflux filter just sold under the Fram brand. The Bosch *261 was also the same before — Purflux inside the box and made in France.

I ordered two Fram filters. One came exactly like the old made-in-France version with the “zig-zag” paper, while the other one was different — the Chinese one.
Same story with the box: the made-in-France filter came in an orange box, while the Chinese one came in a more orange/red box, with different font as well.

I tried Mahle too, as I remember them being very good for years and made in Austria. Not anymore — the same Chinese stuff.

It also seems like OE filters are no longer coming from Purflux. I’ve seen a lot of boxes marked “Made in TN (Tunisia)” and some Renault ones with the same marking.
So it looks like PSA switched to Mecafilter and Misfat, since those are made in Tunisia along with Valeo. Most likely reboxed Mecafilter/Misfat.

A few pics of wasted money (only the first Fram on the left is the correct Purflux-type filter) :

The physics about this tubular swirl inserts i understand , but seen them disintegrated and migrated through the cooling system potentially blocking off smaller coolant hoses , damaging water pump seal , thermostat stuck open etc. 

Decided to pull them out ... cause they're plastic and OE should be metal which will be near impossible to find nowadays with Chinesuim made parts .

Now im not sure if it's just one strip of that turbulator inside or there's one in each alu. tube ?!

Also they say without the inserts the heater function will be less efficient , anyone tried without the strips inside if it really makes that much difference ?

Nissens and some unknown brand "made in the same factory with just different labels identical item crap" : 

I have a 1.9 GTi converted to a 2.0 GTI 6. I need a new battery as it has a cheap wanky one on it now, what is the biggest or best option to go for that’ll fit in the GTi6 battery box in my 205? I’m assuming a diesel battery for the best CCA? 
 

what can my car handle? 

Counterfit rate for them is huge .. and hard to spot the difference without detail pictures .

I need new replacement Walbro ERJ197 pump , seems to be some here but unsure if it's genuine or not as well as other walbro pumps they're selling :

https://www.glencoeltd.co.uk/hi-in-tank-fuel-injection-pump-erj197-wfx101010a/

Been looking Bosch variants too , 0580453470 and the likes seems to fit too but need some adapt work to fit into housing .

D

http://ryanmoore.comule.com/

fuse in shunt overheating then blowing taken it out and only thing that look dubious is a wire missing from the end !!! Can’t find anything to attach it to . See attached picture, anyone know what should go here ? 

After some advice. 1987 1.9L (ph1). Completely stock. Running well.

Rev counter has just started to read high intermittently. I’ll be driving around with it reading accurately, then for a few minutes it’ll read about 1000rpm higher than it should. Then it’ll settle back down to being accurate.

Any suggestions as to what to check?

Many thanks!

Having an issue with my Peugeot 205GTI 1.6 for the last six months. It starts perfectly one try and then every now and then nothing happens. It just clicks when you go to start the car.  I posted on here awhile ago and was told to change the seven pin Brown plug under the air intake which I have done. I’ve hardwired all the connections so the plug has now gone completely. I have changed the battery. I have added ground points. I have changed the starter motor.

What would be the next option to try/change?

I also noticed the other day I had a lot of water in the passenger side rear seat foot well. How would that be getting in? I guess it must be something to do with the sunroof?

Thanks in advance for anyone that can help!

Oscar

I've fitted the 106 motor and made sure the mechanism is free but the speed is only marginally better than the original 205 motor! I've heard of people fitting a 306, golf and skoda motors but I've never heard if this has made a real difference 

What have others done on the 205's? had a very quick look last night and seems drilling through the backplate of the rear drum and picking up the heads on the wheel studs (car runs the PTS stud conversion) might work but without taking the drum off and looking not sure the heads would sit prod enough to pick up?

also I am sure I have seen on here that someone welded tabs onto the drum and used these as a pick up, I cannot for the life of me find it via searching.

If anyone has a setup they'd share it would be appreciated.

We did have one, but when it wore out, we binned it and then discovered that the replacement we had bought had a 180° rotation. We bought another to find it also had a 180° rotation.

When shopping on-line for them, we haven't found any listings that declare the angle of rotation.

I can't see where this plug connects to.

Can anyone help? It's below the coil and distributor. 

Its only 2 pin but has 3 wires in it.

I've looked through the forum and can't see anything similar in all the pics from others in similar situations. 

I'm having trouble getting it to idle properly, so hoping this is the cause. It starts and idles at 2.5k, if I blip the throttle it tries to idle around 900rpm and stalls. I've checked timing and tried to set the tps and idle screw. Then I found this connector.

Thanks in advance. 

Before I cast aside my sandwich and cuppa for a look see, is any body aware of any commonality twixt these 3 circuits please?

I've always been fascinated with understanding how the key fob and receiver work and since I bought mine a few years ago I always intended to get into the guts of the electronics and understand how to decode the units - mainly in case I needed to repair, but also for interest. Over the years I have researched and pieced together information from a few sources sources which I've attached.

As the circuit technology is now 30 years old, whilst the circuits and electronics may still look modern - original datasheets and information are quite difficult to come by. Added to the fact that this is a security mechanism it's not widely documented how these devices work.

I'm going to keep this very short for the moment but will expand if anyone is interested to see more. Most of this information has previously shared by Laurent Deschamps:

http://laurent.deschamps.free.fr/plip/plip.htm

I thought it would be good to re-share (and add to it) in this topic forum so I have placed of copy of the documents of the key fob circuitry and some of Lauren's information into this forum for future reference.

Basically, the phase 1.5/2 key fobs send infra-red light pulses to the receiver dome in the ceiling console. The receiver is continually watching for the pulses and if it sees the correct sequence, it triggers a change of voltage on the wires which run down to the central locking control module which sits to the left of the steering column near the heater matrix. That change in voltage causes the central locking motors to cycle open/closed respectively.

The infra-red pulses carry a short, 5 digit, security code. That code is factory encoded into the key fob chip, which in the later Phase 2 key fobs, is the Philips OM1058T - it's an EEPROM device. It can be re-coded and should be possible, but I don't quite have the information on how to program this chip yet as it's not readily available. I know the general mechanism, but not the exact protocol required. It is very likely possible along these lines: Programming an EEPROM with an Arduino

The receiver which decodes the infra-red pulses is a variant of  the Philips TEA5500 and is covered in some detail by Laurent's web page. Generally speaking, the receiver is a simpler device than that of the Phase 2 key fob transmitter and the security code sequence is encoded at the factory with either the presence or absence of connections to a positive voltage, ground, or open (not connected). This is achieved by physical track connections on the board, some of which are drilled so that they are "open". It's possible to re-program a receiver to match a key fob by drilling or connecting tracks with solder - I'm not covering this here at the moment.

What I did want to start discussing was how to fault diagnose and decode the key fob signal. I'd been wanting to do this for a while and decided to get some components together to do this. I achieved it with some relatively simple electronics and the use of an Arduino Nano micro-controller - pictured in the attached document. I was then able to write some code and decode the key fob. In theory it would be possible to easily place this Arduino into a smaller, low-power, permanent circuit board, and create an after market receiver which could replace the original in the car. By writing this decoder, I have effectively made a central locking receiver module.

Let me know if you are interested in seeing more of the circuit and how I programmed the Arduino in order to decode the key fob signal. At the moment - I'm just posting to share that this was made possible using the Arduino and I'll expand more if anyone is interested in seeing how....

What I can add if you have a key fob and you are not sure it's working you can use a mobile phone camera to look at the key fob infra-red led as you press the button. You should see a short pulse of purple/white light through your phone screen which is not visible to the naked eye. If you have a key fob which you believe is working, but would like the code for, I should be able to decode it for you using the circuit I've made. This might be helpful if you are trying to put together a fully working pair from a spare receiver (which you can more easily re-code to match)

Key Fob and Arduino.pdf

Codage_du_numero.pdf

OM1058.pdf

A local locksmith says they are able to re-key the new cylinders to fit the spare ignition key. 

The only plase I've been able to find cylinder kits is AutoDoc - with prices ranging from £10 (BLIC) to about £40 (Valeo). Looking at the pictures, the different products appear physically identical BUT I want to avoid wasting time & money on a cheap and nasty kit or something that the locksmith can't re-key.

thoughts?

Mark

 (the car is a phase 1.5 1.6 GTi)

Thanks

TIA

The strangest thing in all that is the fact that the rpm´s wont rise in the instrument cluster only when I accelerate slowly ...

I just noticed that I lost the fuel cap (stock with key lock) of my GR 1992.

As it was raining yesterday, I'm not sure if the water got into the fuel tank. But I can start the engine fine, and there is no obvious sign of smoke or anything, so I may put some water-removal fluid in it.

I wonder if this happens to other members and I would like to know what options I have for the replacement cap besides buying old genuine stock.

Thank you for your suggestion!

what could cause a little amount of petrol to come out of the smaller diameter breather hose running from the cap area to behind the rear wheel arch? Noticed a little amount of petrol coming from it earlier today. Full tank very hot day if that makes any difference.