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Terry1600

Please Help, 1.6 Cti Running Rich

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ALEX

Sorry should have read your post better

 

It'll be gunked up. degreaser and WD40 it.

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Terry1600

it looks clean as a whistle inside and i can see marks on the disk where its been sliding backwards and forwards but i dont know why the garage hasent tried cleaning it just to see if its stuck, they just want me to put a new one on it, ive already paid them to set it up so might aswell just put a new one on it. if i cant find one ill just have them leave it as it is and ill try clean it up myself.

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Terry1600

also, changed thesad for a good used one and its still doing it, when cooling fan kicks in the mixture goes to pot and the engine goes on the hunt and dies, not sure if they have checked the battery yet so im going to put another on it and see what happens, no wonder people dont trust garages im gonna end up doing it all myself anyway ugh!

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welshpug

sounds like the alternator isnt keeping up, though its fairly normal on jetronic for the idle speed to fluctuate a bit as there is no load compensation, it is quite primitive clockwork stuff!

 

now you know the CO is close to what it should be you can leave the afm alone, it is wise to re-check stuff like throttle initial position, throttle switch adjustment and function (not just that it clicks, check it with a meter)

 

if that is all correct then just tweaking the air bypass screw on the throttle body will sort it.

 

lastly, if your ignition timing is all to pot vac advance leaking etc then its all a bit pointless.

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Anthony

Is the CO still around 2%? Try leaning the mixture off a couple of turns (anti-clockwise) and see if that helps the hunting with electrical load.

 

Certainly that's often been the issue I've found on cars that struggle with the headlights etc on. Check as Welshpug says above too - split vacuum advance units (very common) are often missed/overlooked and creates an air leak.

 

As others have said, I doubt the SAD itself is at fault for not closing, especially if you've tried two - they're generally very reliable! Wiring is the likely issue, and despite what the Haynes manual says, the earth for the SAD is through the starter wiring - so if that's been chopped about in the past, it's potentially not being earthed which would explain it not closing properly. This should all be basic stuff for the garage, but in my experience, sometimes the basics are overlooked and electrical stuff in particular seems to stump many.

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Terry1600

Its had a starter just before i bought it and they had split the afm to tb pipe and to compensate just turned the idle right up, gonna strip the whole lot off and check it over, ive found a good advance in the loft. Now it takes ages to start, throttle will stick at 2k when driving. I have to blip the throttle to get it to fall down again!

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Terry1600

It will idle at 1800 when warm and drop to 500 when the clutch is pressed, thretening to stall, just cant find a happy place for it!

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ALEX

Clutch arm inferring with the wiring? the cable organising around that area is usually a bit of a mess.

Check the condition of the fly lead to the Dizzy from the ignition module.

Also note that the Vac advance units are different for the 1.9 and 1.6. , there's a number on the Arm, make sure they match with your old one.

Edited by ALEX

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Terry1600

At the moment i have to wind the throttle body screw right out to get it to start and get an idle out of it and then when its warm the idle is sky high so i have to get out and turn it down a bit, them it will start to hunt when the engine has had a bit of cool air coming to a stop so have to turn it up again

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Terry1600

By throttle body screw i mean the brass one

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