Jump to content
  • Welcome to 205GTIDrivers.com!

    Hello dear visitor! Feel free to browse but we invite you to register completely free of charge in order to enjoy the full functionality of the website.

Sign in to follow this  
Terry1600

Please Help, 1.6 Cti Running Rich

Recommended Posts

Terry1600

Hi people!

 

i got the car with a split afm to tb pipe and it was constantly stalling but running good as a whole.

 

i changed the pipe for a new one and now after about a week the car runs but stinks of petrol, the exhaust smoke is blue but again stinks of petrol.

 

i have checked the afm, the dizzy and the coolant temp switch, the dizzy has been marked by the prev owner along with the afm which inside looks brand new.

 

no matter what i adjust i can only make the mixture richer i cant make it any leaner!

 

the coolant tank has now developed a foam inside it, and the oil is thin with petrol.

 

spark plugs are clean as a whistle and there's a slight bit of mayo in the breathers.

 

all in all drives OK but smells so bad of fuel your eyeballs want to fall out of your face, please help!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Anthony

Try another AFM, good chance someone has mucked around with that one to compensate for the air leak.

 

Worth checking that it has a matching set of fuelling parts too, so blue injectors, 056 AFM and 340 ECU as fuelling will potentially be way out if it has mismatched bits fitted.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Terry1600

checked all part numbers out everything's matching, changed ect sensor as that looked original with no changes, have to check afm tonight see if that makes any difference cheers

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
j_turnell

Ideally you want to hook it up to a gas analyser to see exactly what the CO and hydrocarbons are doing. I would expect the plugs to be sooted up and black smoke if it was heavily overfueling. I'd also look at doing a compression test going by your other symptoms. Swapping over your afm is a good shout. The 5mm allen key adjuster screw adjusts idle mixture, anticlockwise leans and clockwise richens. But unless you can see figures you are doing it blind. Mixture over the rev range whilst driving is controlled by the tension on the spring inside the afm and generally shouldn't be played around with unless on a rolling road.

 

The engine sounds tired to me with blue smoke and poor running, it may well need at least a top end overhaul.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Terry1600

ive changed the afm to tb elbow pipe as it was split, it was running ok but not the best, now ive changed it its massively overfuling, im certain the afm has been adjusted to compensate for this split pipe so im trying to find out where the spring should be on an untampered unit, do you have any info on that? cheers

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Terry1600

i changed the plugs even though the old ones where clean, checked the air filter also thats brand new i think its been serviced before i bought it

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
j_turnell

Each afm will be set to match the engine it was initially fitted to. I'd firstly determine if the engine needs any serious work before you take things any further. If the engine is ok i'd get it on a rolling road where fueling can be monitored under load over the whole rev range. The spring tension can then be played about with if necessary and the idle setup.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Terry1600

ive had some tests done

 

Chemical Head gasket sniff test on coolant = No trace

 

Compression Test: warm engine.

 

Dry 130 - 160 - 180 - 180

 

Wet 180 - 217 - 246 - 188

 

all in psi

 

9 - 11 - 12.5 - 12.5 Dry

12.6 - 15 - 17 - 13 Wet

 

In Bar

Edited by Terry1600

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Terry1600

after a bit of a reading online it looks like ive got a blown gasket between one and two and if cyl 4 is accurate that could be a bad valve, surely i couldn't be that unlucky ha

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
j_turnell

Looks that way 10-15psi between cylinders is the max difference i'd be hoping for. I'd be taking the head off, get the valve guides checked, new stem seals and valves re-lapped along with a light skim.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
toolie72

Agreed, ask around for recommendations on a good honest machine shop

Guides are maybe gone-take valves with you

 

Head gaskets can quite often pass tests-it really depends where it’s gone, at least if you have head off you can check bores etc

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Tom Fenton

Ok it's not A1 but personally I'd cure the over fuelling first before anything else.

I've had 205's similar go in to do another 10k miles with no massive ill effects. If many of us did our own cars we may have a surprise.

I'd certainly be in no rush to rip it to bits.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Terry1600

just had it all set up, the co is at 2.1% and hc is at 112 ?? is this normal, smells better but am i just being picky?

 

also garage came back with a compression test of 160 155 155 165 different to the ones i did

Edited by Terry1600

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Anthony

2% is a bit rich but it's well within MOT limits - normally around 1-1.5% is ideal. HC figure nice and low.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
j_turnell

Figures look good only a tad high as Anthony mentions with the CO and the compression results are a lot better also! How does it drive?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Terry1600

drives good, i had to turn the tb brass screw out about half a turn after picking it up from the garage as even though the sad works it still wouldnt idle from cold without dying even with no electrical load, smell is a lot better, i have a brand new exhaust and its blowing where the center section box has been crimped like a ravioli at the edges, was only cheap that cant be helping with the smell

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Terry1600

with them figures now it wont start from hot and it also wont start from cold, ugh this damn car

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Anthony

Won't start at all or starts but won't idle without throttle?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Terry1600

wont idle from cold without throttle and when its hot wont start properly, takes a long time.

Edited by Terry1600

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
ALEX

I had over fuelling problems with my Cti. Turned out to be a loose connector on the AFM connector plug.

 

The AFM code should match the engine and its management system, have you checked this? Check the codes on the Engine Block, ECU, AFM & Dizzy. Post them up here if in doubt.

 

Garages / mobile tuners often pop the covers off the AFM and adjust the spring tension to get the car though its MOT if the adjuster screw fails to bring the emissions down.

 

If the AFM cover isn’t sealed on and looks as if its been pried off, then assume the above is true.

 

This is a cheap fix but its telling you that something is worn/clogged/faulty or not as it should be for you to need to do this. It could be the AFM itself as the little bearings inside can go rusty or the contact track could be worn/dirty.

 

Tightening the spring a notch at time will weaken the mixture but don’t make the mistake of not marking the original position before you adjust anything.

 

If you planning on keeping the car it would be a good investment to by a new AFM anyway.

 

 

Good luck with it though, don’t lose faith

Edited by ALEX

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Terry1600

garage is now saying they cant set the idle because the sad isnt closing, they said they have tested the sad off the car and it dosent do anything anymore so are asking me to find another

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
ALEX

The SAD has nothing to do with the idle when the engine is warm as long as its closed.

Is it stuck open or closed?

It takes a while to fully cool down to open again.

 

Id be tempted to take the car to a specialist that knows 205's or had experience with them. If like most garages they will just happily take your money and diagnose the problem at your expense.

I could put money on that replacing the SAD won't make any difference.

Edited by ALEX

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Terry1600

they said its open and they set the idle but after its warm/hot its still open so idle is too high

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Tom Fenton

Sounds to me like its lost the earth or power to it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Terry1600

they've had it wired directly to a battery, it moves very very slightly but even after a while but not enough to close it up

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

×