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Shane17

The 205 Mi16 Dream

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petert

Inox might be a better choice than WD40.

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Andy

Morning,

I had exactly the same problem with my Westwood liners. I removed some metal from the squared edge of the liner, near the bottom until it was well clear of the inside of the block. In the end, my liner protrusion was a bit high, so block and liners back at the machine shop. They will be ready for me next Thursday.

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Andy

Me again.Out of curiosity, what liner protrusion have you ended up with? I ask as I had 4 thou, which is a bit on the high side, but was in a new block. When I checked them in an old block, which is now in new ownership, the protrusion was down at 2 thou. As for cleaning, you can never be clean enough. If you have had the dremel to the block, it is time for the bath in hot soapy water again, followed by the air line, followed by the brake cleaner . Do not forget all the oil ways , cleaned through with those long thin brushes that are available cheaply.

Enjoy the build process. It is deeply satisfying!!!

Andy

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East_Hud

Great build, giving me inspiration to brave the cold in the garage!

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petert

Great build, giving me inspiration to brave the cold in the garage!

NYE Australian translation.

 

Great build, giving me inspiration to grab a coldie out of the garage!

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Biggles

I'd rather take some metal off the liner, easier to clean up and less impact on strength.they're obviously a lot chunkier than the original ones as they aren't cast,

 

Westwood stuff is centrifugally cast.

 

These liners are pretty substantial so I wouldn't worry about taking a touch off them.

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Andy

Morning,

Just wondered how your build is getting on . Hope you have made/are making progress.

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Shane17

Hi Andy, a very sore subject as I have no time, I have my kids all wkend and work late so just haven't been able to get on it, the frustrating thing is everything is there but the time. Things are changing over the next few weeks so I should be able to get rolling with it again :)

It is by no means stopped and would never give up on it just temporarily on hold but should be reporting some progress soon.

 

Yours is coming along very nicely mate and I am very envious of the extent you have gone to, do you think you'll have it up and running for summer?

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Andy

Ah. Sorry to have irritated a raw nerve. Yes, I really do want the car up and running by June if possible. It has already been in pieces for well over a year so I have to rely on my wife's car , which does not always go down too well, particularly if I use it to transport bit of Peugeot !! . I am trying to enjoy the build process as well. That is part of the joy of ownership, so I have not given myself a strict deadline .

Cheers and the best of luck.

Andy

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Shane17

Trust me Andy it wasn't you and apologies if it came across that way. Your car is coming along very nicely and is looking absolutely spot on and hats off to you on the progress and quality you are putting into it.

 

Today I got into the garage and took everything out and reorganised it.... this needed doing especially with all the non car stuff that was in there doing my head in, well I didn't take a picture of before but this is it bar a few odds and sods and feel much more motivated to hopefully make some progress over the next couple of weeks, it's going to be really slow but it will be something.

 

9935E407-4C2F-41BA-96AE-769AFEC28658_zps

 

It's a panoramic pic so hopefully works.

 

Plan for now is to actually finish the bay and wings before doing anything else, I need a new near side headlight panel, I was going to try and keep the original but it has gone in a few places.

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Andy

Evening,

I envy you your garage. Lots of space. You will have a cracking engine to drop into your car, but I agree that the bodywork stuff does take an absolute age and often gives you the feeling of going backwards rather than forwards.

Keep the faith and keep,up the great work.

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Shane17

The garage is a mans dream, also has a single door leading into the garden but I need a shed to store things, before I cleaned it out you couldn't move there was far too much junk and bad habits of leaving bits all over the place. Thanks for the encouragement I hope a lot more will be happening now.

 

I'm looking to get the 205 higher off the ground to be able to get to the awkward areas on the u/s and was looking at a set of sealey as3000 axle stands, has anyone used these or recommend a different set? They're about £55 from amazon but they have a max height of 700mm which is ideal.

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allye

I use something similar, just some 5tonne axel stands, really high and is the best you'll get just using stands.

 

Pain in the bum getting the car on and off them as even big 3tonne trolley jacks don't go high enough!

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Shane17

Cheers Allye, I'm definitely going to have to do some cutting and welding around the fuel tank area and would be good to have a look under the floor pan areas. It would be dodgy to only buy one set, so leave the front on the normal stands, 300mmish and the rear up on the higher ones? Even typing it sounds dodgy lol

 

Yeah I was thinking about this as well! I only have 2, 2tonne jacks. How'd you get it up that high? What about a 4x4 jack?

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Shane17

Hi guys I could do with some advice regarding welding.

 

I have bought a gas less mig and intend to replace the headlight panel, I was thinking of going over the weld to the inner wing as I don't like it and it's bothering me, I intend to practice on a peice of sheet same thickness until I feel confident.

 

Question, is it ok to go back over a weld that has been butt jointed? Pic below of what it looks like.

 

BB525B31-F67C-44DF-A2D6-4C3B8EA86110_zps

 

Any advice would be appreciated.

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dcc

Is it ok? Yes. But gasless mig is pissing into the wind. You need a good wire speed and lots of amps. Preferably a tig and lots of time!

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Shane17

And also before I remove the original headlight panel would I need to temporarily fix a tie between the wings to stop the wings moving out of position? I've taken measurements between but without a centre line of the car up front there's no fixed datum, or am I overthinking it?

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Shane17

Cheers Dan, you don't rate them? I've been reading up on welding so I thought I'd start with something basic, sounds like it might make getting the feel for it harder though. I don't mind the time as long as it's done right hopefully, I tried to get a welder at work to come and sort it out but he won't touch cars as it's too thin! Plus I want to give it a shot I just don't want to make things worse though.

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dcc

Clean metal, pure argon gas, lots of practice and dont be afraid to watch youtube videos on welding thin metal etc...

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petert

Why do you recommend pure argon when mig welding mild steel?

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TAG

Mig welding ~1mm steel is tricky without blowing holes. I've personally found that a fast wire speed only adds to this problem. Placing a reasonably thick copper plate behind the panels you are welding helps with dissipating heat and stopping you just blowing through it. I've also found a wire wheel attachment in a drill or angle grinder the best for prepping the surfaces, as at that thickness metal, you want to keep as much material there whilst removing the paint/underseal on top. I've found that when using flap discs, it is all too easy to take a fair bit of metal off at the same time. I've used a 95/5 argon/co2 mix, which makes the job so much easier. If you have a read online, you will find plenty of advice to not even bother with the little disposable bottles you can get - It's the same in my experience. It's worth buying/renting a proper bottle. If you are primarily going to be welding bodywork, I would go with 0.6mm wire. If you are welding thicker metal (3mm plate etc) you will find 0.8mm wire so much nicer to weld with.

This is all proper mig of course, I've personally found the fluxcore setup a lot more aggressive (easier to blow holes etc) than normal mig.

 

If you want to learn more about welding, there is a chap on Youtube called Jody who runs a channel called "Welding Tips and Tricks", they are well worth checking out.

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petert

I use Argoshield Lite, which is 3% O2 and 5%CO2. I've found (by mistake) that pure Argon only leads to undercutting and is more difficult to weld with. I agree about using 0.6mm wire but you need to have it well set up. Rollers, liner and tip need to be perfect. It cobbles so easily.

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dcc

Peter I prefer to use pure argon as it gave better penetration and helped me keep a higher wire speed when compared to my 5% and 15% co2 mixes.

 

Pure argon is very useful for a hobby welder or somebody who has done very little welding - I find it helps encourage neat welding. When welding tig for stainless or mild on the hydro turbines we only use pure argon. The coded welder who does the ultra-high pressure pipes will only weld using pure argon.

 

I use .6mm for bodywork, .8mm for most other things, 1/1.2mm we use of the turbines and then the tig comes out for spear housings and turbine housings for really neat tig welding.

 

Im going to get some practice with aluminium tig when i've finished knocking my house about :)

 

People do things in different ways and set up tools in different ways - i.e. your air moisture down there will differ to ours. I personally like to mig weld faster at slightly higher amps and wire speed, as Tom as said above he didnt like it at that speed as it encouraged the metal to blow a hole if youre too slow.

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petert

I too have settled on 0.8mm for most things, except when doing spray transfer when 0.9mm is better. I'll give pure argon another try, but on thin stuff the light mix has proved more successful.

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Robbiedundy

I agree, the gasless welders aren't very good for thin metal, I bought one and returned it the same day. Ended up buying a second hand Clarke 150amp gas mig which was quite easy to learn with, I'm still not very good though ???? as above, a bit of copper definitely helps, especially if there's small gaps/holes ????

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