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dcc

I understand this to be correct, yet you would still need the correct pulley for each cam (after market seems the only way - I can't find standard cam pulleys for these in any scrap yard).

 

also the xu (gti6) cam lobe is too big for the ew standard lifters iirc. you'd need to get the bigger lifter fitted ideally. which to go to that trouble seems pointless to not go for more cam...

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mac jessop

Hi Guys,

I am currently in the process of trying to marry a 138 big valve head onto a 180 standard bottom end. I have opted for the 138 head as I am in need of torque over HP and therefore its narrower port size should mean an increased air velocity. I have had 3 engines built by a race engine "specialist" all of which have gone bang before being raced. I can only assume this is because he has used Wossner pistons and hasn't reduced the CR by very much.

As I think has been previously stated in this thread, The 180 HC Wossner pistons in a 138 engine produce ridiculous CR figures and have resulted in 2 sets of detonated pistons and now a shot knife edged crank.

I have heard nearly all the excuses why the engines have all gone bang, none of which mention the excessive CR. However, I have fitted a set of Peco 440cc injectors in place of the original style ones and the mapper was very happy with them as far as fuel delivery is concerned.

 

My new build as mentioned is coming along nicely but I have one or two questions for you guys.

 

1. Can I use the standard 138 exst cam to keep a good torque curve?

2. I am having trouble with valve overlap as the exst valve is very close to the piston on TDC whilst the inlet is not touching the plasticine in the piston cutout.... what am I doing wrong?

3. I have a pair of what appears to be "Newman copy" cams with the numbers CKC8 and CKC7.... any ideas on this. possibly Kent cams copies?

 

Thanks in advance Mac

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Misio

My setup
TB from GTI 6 Aka 3.0 v6
Aftermarket 4-1 exhaust manifold
ŚWiątek Cams 264 9,2mm
Cam wheels with regulation
ew12j4 inlet manifold
2.25 inch exhaust
Im going to remap stock ECU But im concerned which Inlet manifold is better GTI 180 or Ew12j4.

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dcc

I have seen the 2.2 inlet being used on a 180 with good results, between 5-10bhp/ similar ftlb throughout rev range

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spike_202

Has anyone had any problems with the ew10j4s engine not letting oil run from the head back to the sump quick enough?

I've fitted bodies to it so have fit a separate oil catch tank and breather from the cam cover which works fine until it's driven at high rpm for long periods then it fills the catch tank up, overflows and makes a right mess! The engine doesn't seem to be breathing excessively so I took it for a few runs gradually increasing sustained rpm, pulling over and checking it and for ages the catch tank was totally empty but push it that little bit more and all of a sudden it's like the cam covers have so much oil in them it's just pushing it up my breather pipe and filling it up instantly. Is there anything extra I should have done after fitting the throttle bodies as I know the original inlet had breathers running through it? I remember hearing stories about mi16 engines getting starved of oil because the oil couldn't run from the head back to the sump quick enough so was thinking this could be a similar problem and if it is any ideas of a fix? I have a rally next weekend so I need to get it sorted ASAP!

yes I have a tunes ew10j4 running circa 214 built by pug1off I've had this build for over 7years I think I was meantiond in one of the 1st pages lol. it originally made 202bhp but about 2years ago I had some tweaking done longer trumpets/bigger injectors/remove A/C and belt PAS and convert to elect to free up lpad on the aux belt and had itremapped on the RR down at Northampton motor sports and my car did just this threw a load of oil out the breather (oil catch tank) and was shocked as I thought something had let go. it was being held at hi rpm for mapping reasons.

pulses of acceleration is fine but holding at 7k + I think is a problem for the breather pipes.

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speaksgeek

yes I have a tunes ew10j4 running circa 214 built by pug1off I've had this build for over 7years I think I was meantiond in one of the 1st pages lol. it originally made 202bhp but about 2years ago I had some tweaking done longer trumpets/bigger injectors/remove A/C and belt PAS and convert to elect to free up lpad on the aux belt and had itremapped on the RR down at Northampton motor sports and my car did just this threw a load of oil out the breather (oil catch tank) and was shocked as I thought something had let go. it was being held at hi rpm for mapping reasons.

pulses of acceleration is fine but holding at 7k + I think is a problem for the breather pipes.

 

Did you fix this issue in any way?

I'm also interested in your aux belt, do you have any info on the routing of it now that the PAS and and A/C are removed? Did it need any extra pulleys or tensioners to replace the removed items? Any chance of a photo of the routing?

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spike_202

the only thing the auxiliary belt goes round is the aultnator pulley so is a lot shorter and frees up a small amount of load on the engine.

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speaksgeek

the only thing the auxiliary belt goes round is the aultnator pulley so is a lot shorter and frees up a small amount of load on the engine.

 

Thanks, that's useful to know. Interested that it doesn't require a tensioner, but I'll see how it goes.

 

Did you fix the issue of the oil going into the catch can at sustained high RPM?

Edited by speaksgeek

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spike_202

unfortunately no I just don't hold it at hi rpm. 2bh you don't need to as track use is up and down so I've never had the problem since.

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speaksgeek

A follow up on power steering delete. Mine now goes direct from lower pulley to alternator.

 

After trying a bunch of belts, I ended up with 6PK815.

It was tight to fit, and I loosened the main pulley to get it on. The stock auto tensioner pushes down on it from above still, and doing the static bend test, it appears to be about right. I couldn't find a 6PK820 to try, but it will probably be easier to fit and might still tension up ok.

Haven't run the engine yet, so I could still be wrong.

 

Next job is fitting up throttle bodies and trying to avoid the oil issues mentioned here and also http://forum.205gtidrivers.com/index.php?showtopic=168918

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wolfshark

Hi guys! New here.

I have a EW10J4 engine and i managed to get an aftermarket management working on it (VEMS). It runs very well and now it is time for some maintenance (i am pretty sure the valve seals are bad) and some power mods. As i drive the car almost every day i decided to buy a cheap second hand head and work on it and then swap them. So i got an EW12J4 head and an RC exhaust manifold. I can transfer the cams from the EW10J4 to disable the vvt and avoid interference (if for some reason the cams on the 12 are too aggressive). But there are 3 problems i am having:

 

1. I am having trouble disassembling the lifters to clean them - maybe somebody did it and can give me an advice or two.

 

2. I red somewhere that there is a difference in the oiling system - the vvt heads don't have oil pressure regulator and the non vvt heads do. Is that true? Maybe i misunderstood something.

 

3. Does anybody measured the combustion chamber capacity of an EW10J4? I can measure the capacity of the EW12 and compare. I want to stay on stock compression ratio.

 

Btw, great community.

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erjotes

HI everyone.

I have EW10J4 in my car(206), i've mounted 206 gti180 exhaust manifold and 2.25" exhaust with one mufler in the end.

On the road dyno it shows 115 bhp 

 

then i've fitted EW12 inlet manifold with V6 throttle body.
122bhp on road dyno|

i've added second muffler after manifold and power raised to 128
 

then ITB's from GSXR 4x46mm on butterfly  but taper to 40mm 

122bhp on dyno

 

i've bored out ITB to 45mm and on dyno engine produced 128bhp 

 

I'm wondering what i'm doing wrong?  i've red all pages from this topic and gti138 on just ITB makes 180bhp , that's far more then mine :(

hJI7CfK.png

stock inlet , exhaust from 180 , 1 muffler vs ITB 45mm , exhaust from 180, 2 mufflers

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welshpug

180 engine is 177 ps iirc, so about 172-3 bhp.  flywheel.

 

with certain rolling roads the transmission/driveline losses are shown as double so giving an artificially low wheel figure.

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erjotes

Yes i know thah road dyno gives low figure. My ex 106 had 115bhp on road dyno and 138 on "normal" dyno, so about 23-25 bhp losses.

EW10j4 as i've said abowe with 206 gti180 exhaust manifold and 2.25" exhaust with one mufler in the end.

On the road dyno it shows 115 bhp  so somthing like 138 on normal dyno,  stock power lets say.

 

so when i read posts like "put ITB's and you will have 170-180bhp (~150 on road dyno) " or "longmans kit , 4x40mm - 190bhp" or mac jessop's topic from other forum, standard engine + ITB = 183bhp
or razza987's post from this topic (site nr 12) 

 

I start to wonder what's wrong with my car  or all those posts aren't true

 

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welshpug

what inlet manifold do you have?

 

you would be best with your own thread specific to your cars issues tbh.

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speaksgeek
On 1/16/2012 at 2:32 AM, Sandy said:

The oil pump is probably the weakest link in the engine. Half moon thrust washers seem a step back from the XU's 360 degree thrusts.

Taking this old comment from Sandy at the start... has anyone built a dry sump setup for this engine? Is the sump pan bolt pattern the same as an XU?

 

I've been talking to AT Power and Pug1Off about making a kit similar to their XU unit for the EW engines.

They're keen, but want to know how much of a market there is.

Obviously it's not cheap, but there's a bunch of advantages to dry sump that I can see from my basic research...

Solves the PCV issues mentioned in this thread and also http://forum.205gtidrivers.com/index.php?showtopic=168918

Slight HP gain from running a vacuum in the crankcase

Removes any chance of oil surge (although this is less of an issue than the XU I think)

Weight and packaging improvements, which is probably most relevant to anyone using it in a 205 (mine's still in a 206). You could change the mounting angle to whatever you like I guess.

 

Similar to this:

https://peugeot-tuning-parts.co.uk/xu-dry-sump-kit-at-power-xu10j4rs-xu9-j4-xu10j4-xu5-xu9.html

 

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petert

Hello friends of the EW. I've not paid much attention to this until now, as a friend has just built an engine using some Catcams. Unusually they recommend 108/104 centreline combination for cams up to 4901807, then revert more typical 104/108 with the 4901902 and above. Is it a typo? Or does something weird happen with smaller-mid profiles? Given both cams have near identical duration at 1mm, it seems odd.

Screen Shot 2018-06-01 at 9.57.34 AM.png

Screen Shot 2018-06-01 at 10.05.02 AM.png

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speaksgeek

I have the much smaller lift and duration 4901804, and the data sheet lists exhaust at 104 deg, and intake 137 deg variable to back to 97 deg.

 

So potentially the 902 cam is the anomaly?

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petert

No, they seem to specify 104 on the exhaust for many. With your profiles on an XU, I'd set them up at 109/112 to begin with. Are you going to lock your inlet?

 

As the cams get bigger, the LCL usually gets smaller.

Edited by petert

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speaksgeek
7 minutes ago, petert said:

No, they seem to specify 104 on the exhaust for many. With your profiles on an XU, I'd set them up at 109/112 to begin with. Are you going to lock your inlet?

 

The only internal change on mine so far are these cams, springs and retainers, so no, for the time being I'm retaining VVT and hydraulic lifters. It's been run with this config on the stock ECU with approx 9kw gain ATW.

 

Someone did mention that CatCams profiles tend to be quite aggressive in their ramp angles compared to many. Not sure I have enough understanding to process that as it might relate to this topic.

Edited by speaksgeek

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petert

9Kw at the wheels is good. You can't complain about that. As I said, I just don't know anything about EW engines.

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gingieboi
On 5/28/2018 at 12:00 AM, speaksgeek said:

Taking this old comment from Sandy at the start... has anyone built a dry sump setup for this engine? Is the sump pan bolt pattern the same as an XU?

 

I've been talking to AT Power and Pug1Off about making a kit similar to their XU unit for the EW engines.

They're keen, but want to know how much of a market there is.

Obviously it's not cheap, but there's a bunch of advantages to dry sump that I can see from my basic research...

Solves the PCV issues mentioned in this thread and also http://forum.205gtidrivers.com/index.php?showtopic=168918

Slight HP gain from running a vacuum in the crankcase

Removes any chance of oil surge (although this is less of an issue than the XU I think)

Weight and packaging improvements, which is probably most relevant to anyone using it in a 205 (mine's still in a 206). You could change the mounting angle to whatever you like I guess.

 

Similar to this:

https://peugeot-tuning-parts.co.uk/xu-dry-sump-kit-at-power-xu10j4rs-xu9-j4-xu10j4-xu5-xu9.html

 

I'd be keen on finding out more about a dry sump kit for mine as it's in a 205 and ground clearance is poor. 

 

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chrissi1106

Hello, 

 

I am just new here, with the hope, to get help with my GTi180, because of the collected knowledge here.

 

I'll try to describe as detailed as possible. The car got a new clutch kit from sachs in a peugeot workshop 2 weeks ago, because the release bearing was very noisy. Additionally the oil pan was resealed, new crankshaft seal, new clutch cable, new driveshaft seals and a new intake hose from airbox to TB. From that repair on, the engine wont fully rev out to 7300 rpm anymore, but varies the rev limit from 69xx to 71xx rpm (read out by peugeot during a testdrive). Mod-wise the engine is stock, except for a green airfilter, peugeotsport sump kit from the 206rcc and total10W50 oil.

 

The workshop thinks the clutch is faulty and triggers the knock sensor, which retards the timing and changes the rev limit.

 

Another user in a german forum has the same problem, but only changed oil, sparks and clutch cable, before the problem occured.

Until now I tried another cranksensor from my other 206GTi, but that didnt help. I bought new spark plugs yesterday and have to wait, until they arrive. 

 

Maybe some of you got the right idea, where I have to search, to find that problem.

 

I am very grateful to all of you.

 

Chrissi

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Thijs_Rallye

@chrissi1106 What oil viscosity is recommended factory wise for that engine? What oil was in it before the oil change? My guess would be an issue with the VVT.

 

Triggering a knock sensor sounds unlikely unless they really botched something up with the clutch change. If it were to make knock like noises you should be able to hear them imho.

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chrissi1106

@Thijs_Rallye

 

Thank you very much for answering! Recommended should be a 5W40 iirc, but the engine runs with that oil flawless the past 2 years. It also matches the Peugeot specs aswell. 

 

There are absolutely no strange noises or what so ever. 

Regards

Edited by chrissi1106

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