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I've got what seems to be a range of electrical issues conspiring to create a bit of a headache after putting a renewed loom in and doing some other jobs. I’ve removed the Laserline immob and have a wire going direct from the key barrel to the starter solenoid and the engine turns over fine but won’t fire. Do I need to earth the SAD now? The thick orange wire that was cut at the barrel which now goes from the barrel end of the wire to the starter solenoid - what needs to happen to the other cut end of it? Just tape it up? Can’t be sure the blue ignition amp I've reinstalled is good - I also have two black ones - I know one of the three works well - is there any way of testing them? The fuel pump hasn’t run for a few years and has been dry for some time but fresh fuel is in the tank - can’t hear the pump priming on operating on the key. Could the missing immobiliser be stopping the pump from getting power (no fuel in the lines on top of the pump body after cranking). How do I test the fuel pump relay, or the connector it plugs in to? The last time I asked about bypassing my immobiliser I didn't get anywhere because it was pointed out I was looking to reveal info which could be used to steal 205s. Which of course, I was - but not intentionally! How do I get it running as I want to integrate a new immobiliser in the near future?

Recently while changing my Mi16 engine from the Jetronic setup to the correct Motronic ML4.1 setup I had all sorts of problems with the ignition amps. After trying a couple of different brands, I still couldn't get the the car the rev without misfiring through the mid-range. At over £30 a go, trying different amps was getting expensive, so I decided to go DIY. As the Motronic ML4.1 ECU sends out a nice square wave on pin1 for the ignition signal, there's none of the signal conditioning that's needed for the distributor pick-up coil type ignition on the Jetronic setup. Therefore the ignition amp just needs to switch based on the ECU's signal, so something simple will do. A bit of research revealed the ISL9V5036P3 IGBT transistor is designed for firing car ignition coils, so I decided to base the circuit around one of those. I've attached the circuit diagram, and you can see how simple it is. Even with a nice metal box (which doubles as a heatsink) the cost of the parts is still less than the standard amps. The auto-reset circuit breaker is optional (Maplin sell them) as I wanted it in there just in case things went wrong. So far the amp has worked flawlessly over the past month or so. The engine revs smoothly and doesn't miss a beat. A vast improvement on the standard amps. So if you're struggling with unreliable amps, you might want to try this circuit.